bead blast, then parkerize, then gun kote?

T

therron258

Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
183
I havent bought any of the stuff, but am about to get a blasting cabinet in the next week or two.

if i wanted a nice black finish on a knife, would what i posted work?

if you have other suggestions, id love to hear them
 
I'm not real big into coatings, but I'm thinking about a small blast cabinet just to scuff-up tangs for "gluing". I'll be watching this thread for ideas.
 
therron258 said:
I havent bought any of the stuff, but am about to get a blasting cabinet in the next week or two.

if i wanted a nice black finish on a knife, would what i posted work?

if you have other suggestions, id love to hear them
Click to expand...

I love coated blades. Save your dollars. Find yourself a good powder coater. Check your motorcycle shop, auto paint suppliers or phonebook.
The finish is incredible strong. I like gun kote and dura coat. But they cost
too much.

My powdercoater charges me 10.00 a blade. Plus he is hoot to hang around with. So it doesn't pay me or is it as much fun to do it any other way. Plus I always try to incorporate other people into my knives every chance I get.

But if want to do it yourself. The whole set up is about 600.00 to powder coat. You need the blast cabinet, the powder coater, air compressor and a regular oven.
 
For what it's worth. I wouldn't both parkerize and gun kote either; do one or the other. I've used gun kote several times and like the results. Not too hard to get set up or to do. I think the most expensive thing I bought to do it was an air brush, which isn't necessary. I bake it in the home oven. ;)

Given an even choice though, I agree that powder coating is the way to go. It's much hardier than gun kote, and you can get just as many colors. I've seriously considered get set up for powder coating here, and should I start making enough treated knives that's what I'd eventually do.
 
I'm set up to do black (manganese) parkerized finishes.

When used as an under-coat, most people go with the grey (zinc) park finish (from what I read). I think the idea is to build up a texture (as opposed to assisting in the color).

Its hard for me to imagine that the Park under-coat is really necessary. I'm guessing that the practice of using a Park under-coat was prompted by those who were already set-up to do a Park finish. As suggested above, I'd go with one or the other.

There is also a "Cold Black" AKA "Tool Black" AKA "Black Oxide" solution out there. It is not a true Black Oxide coating as you see on hex keys, etc. Some of us use it with success. The finish is not built-up like a Park finish is. It has a slight sheen, whereas the Park finish is totally matte. It is very easy to apply.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1659093&PMT4NO=0
 
well from what ive noticed, parkerizing seems easy to do to get a decent black finish, and it seems tough enough on guns.

How will powdercoating work with an etched logo? Will it fill it in?
 
Its accepted practice in the gun world to parkerize under a painted finish. Its done because a parkerized finish is very porous and holds the paint far better than the plain steel.
Plus you get twice the corrosion protection.
Chris
 
I have used the Brownell's Gun Kote and was not too happy with it....after blasting, it just didn't stick too well after curing if you know what I mean. In talking with a gunsmith buddy of mine who also uses it, he good naturedly chastised me for using the Brownells stuff, as it is not the same as the bulk Gun Kote that he sprays out of his own air brush. The stuff in the spray can was "junk" according to him and not in any way the same stuff that he buys by the quart or gallon or whatever.

Anybody hear anything like that or was he just blowing smoke up my caboose?
 
godogs57 said:
The stuff in the spray can was "junk" according to him and not in any way the same stuff that he buys by the quart or gallon or whatever.
Click to expand...

That's possible, because they have to add a propellant and possibly other stuff to it in order to get it to work in a spray can. You're likely going to be better off using an airbrush rather than a can for almost any kind of finish.
 
I'm sure the airbrushed paint is thinned quite a bit more than the spray can version. This would allow it to penetrate into the porous surface better.
Now I'm in rant mode: Why, oh why does everyone want to color their blades black? Anything you do, short of nitriding, will wear off. A blade is what it is-and steel isn't black. If you properly maintain a carbon steel blade rust shouldn't be a problem.
 
godogs57 said:
I have used the Brownell's Gun Kote and was not too happy with it....after blasting, it just didn't stick too well after curing if you know what I mean. In talking with a gunsmith buddy of mine who also uses it, he good naturedly chastised me for using the Brownells stuff, as it is not the same as the bulk Gun Kote that he sprays out of his own air brush. The stuff in the spray can was "junk" according to him and not in any way the same stuff that he buys by the quart or gallon or whatever.

Anybody hear anything like that or was he just blowing smoke up my caboose?
Click to expand...

Powdercoating is much stronger, better fit for knives. Knife companies usually do powdercoat. I try Gun kote with no success. Guns don't get drawn as much as an EDC. Unless your Clint Eastwood.
 
therron258 said:
well from what ive noticed, parkerizing seems easy to do to get a decent black finish, and it seems tough enough on guns.

How will powdercoating work with an etched logo? Will it fill it in?
Click to expand...

Powder coat is thick. Yes it fills in logos. You can print on it or use a stencil with a logo. I did pad printing for logos on these knives. The names were etched with a laser.

HPIM0613.jpg

HPIM0618.jpg
 
is there a way to powdercoat and then etch a logo? What if the extra deep clip is used on the etch o matic, will it still fill it in?
 
You can not electro-etch through a non-conductive surface.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top