Bead blasted knife rust

It must be the combination of the finish, steel, and climate.

How would I polish it? I have used some metal polishes, but they dont seem to work too well.
 
That's freaky. Wondering if I should check my Chive.
I have a S&W Baby Swat that I've had for several years, that is completely bead blasted-- grip and all--that has survived South GA's humidity without a hint of rust. Maybe it's the cheap steel they used?
 
I don't know if anybody here has already seen this, but there was another recent thread here on this same issue. Seems that there were a lot of rust issues with Kershaw's bead-blasted 13C26 blades, and they transitioned to 14C28N steel, with which the rust issue seemed to diminish. Here's that thread (and take a look at post #6, specifically, for photos of each type):

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=732848

Don't know if it pertains to your specific knife, but it's interesting reading.
 
Yes Kershaw worked with Sandvik to create the steel that they use now, 14c28n. It uses nitrogen in place of some of the carbon which creates much better corrosion resistance. They also heat treat it a bit harder now.

That sucks you scratched your knife up real bad with the 320, I've done that before when I first got into knives on a US uncle henry I inherited from my grandpa, I still get mad at myself when I think of that! Now that you started with 320 you'll probably have to sand the whole blade with your 320 grit. After the whole blade has an even finish you'll move up a couple hundred grit and then another couple hundred and then its up to you if you want to go any finer than that. It might look like this, 320, 500, 800... The exact grit is up to you, you just want to make sure that you get it nice and even in each grit before moving up to the next. I've done this before and it took a while but it was on s30v, with the sandvik steel you have it shouldn't take too long. Plus it will give the knife a custom look.

Edit: If it really bothers you, I wouldn't mind rebead blasting it for you. It wouldn't really solve your original problem but I wouldn't helpin a brother out and doing a quick blast for you. I recently got a media blaster setup and have been having some fun with some of my pocket clips/handles... Email/PM me if your interested.
 
I like Breakfree CLP. It's an exceptional rust preventative for a light oil, and an excellent lubricant. It leaves a coat of teflon for long lasting dry lubrication.

I'm pretty sure it's not food safe, though.

Ballistol is very well regarded. I've never used it, but it is definitely food safe.

If you email them, it might be possible to get a free sample.
 
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