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Bead Blasted Mule?

Brian Avila

Brian Avila

Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,286
I was wondering if anyone had put g10 on any of their mules and then bead blasted the g10 or bead blasted both the blade and the g10 while the handle was attached?

Thoughts?

-Brian-
 
Blasting opens up pores in the steel allowing for humidity to remain, and can lead to corrosion. I've seen it happen in S30V from some manufacturers. That finish also allows wear to show almost immediately. What mule are you referring to exactly?
 
I have seen some of the Mules Tom Krein did and I really like the textured G10 he did, which I am pretty sure he bead blasts, but I was unsure it the blades where done as well or not.
 
I can't speak to whatever Tom Krein has done to the mules, but I wouldn't alter the finish, it's a nice satin finish and it's always better than BB. Just my thoughts is all.
 
I am considering using "Grip Dip" for my S110V mule that is en route (is that nuts?) , and having stumbled across this post I'm wondering if the finish under a coat of clear Grip Dip will look better bead blasted. The coating might protect the finish from oxidization too.
 
wongstein said:
I am considering using "Grip Dip" for my S110V mule that is en route (is that nuts?) , and having stumbled across this post I'm wondering if the finish under a coat of clear Grip Dip will look better bead blasted. The coating might protect the finish from oxidization too.
Click to expand...

Curiosity has me.... Whats the idea behind using the "Grip Dip". Just the handle?
 
wongstein said:
I am considering using "Grip Dip" for my S110V mule that is en route (is that nuts?) , and having stumbled across this post I'm wondering if the finish under a coat of clear Grip Dip will look better bead blasted. The coating might protect the finish from oxidization too.
Click to expand...
Protect the coating from what? S110V is extremely corrosion resistant as it is.
 
Jastab said:
Corrosion... you stated earlier in this thread with s30v.
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Corrosion develops more rapidly on stainless blades when they're beadblasted. S110V will be fine as is. He only mentioned the S30V because it applied to a blade that had a beadblasted finish.
 
I will say this hear too, since this seams to come up often.

Knives are like any other tool. You have to take care of them, period. Don't by high carbon steel that is not stainless and expect it last a life time with out taking care of it. Yes stainless knives can rust. However, IF you take care of them, bead blasted or not, you wont have problems.
 
dishcore said:
Corrosion develops more rapidly on stainless blades when they're beadblasted. S110V will be fine as is. He only mentioned the S30V because it applied to a blade that had a beadblasted finish.
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That's a much better answer. He could have stated that from the start instead of giving the idea to the OP that it could still corrode. If it'll be fine then why say anything without specifying which steels it could hurt...
 
Jastab said:
That's a much better answer. He could have stated that from the start instead of giving the idea to the OP that it could still corrode. If it'll be fine then why say anything without specifying which steels it could hurt...
Click to expand...

Creating little cavities on any knife will increase corrosion. Stainless knives would be the only thing I would bead blast, if I was to do it again. I have bead blasted 1095 as well and if you take care of it, you wont have problems.
 
TheWeatherman said:
I will say this hear too, since this seams to come up often.

Knives are like any other tool. You have to take care of them, period. Don't by high carbon steel that is not stainless and expect it last a life time with out taking care of it. Yes stainless knives can rust. However, IF you take care of them, bead blasted or not, you wont have problems.
Click to expand...

Corrosion resistance is an extremely desirable trait for blade steel though. In many environments it's going to be much harder to protect blades. A knife will last a lifetime, and that's a long time to keep up a regimen of oiling and waxing blades. Many collectors that keep their blades in climate controlled settings will often start to shy away from high carbon steel at a certain point because the extra work starts to outweigh any benefits; think about a solider that is looking at serving 3 years in a jungle setting, or someone that lives near the sea.

If you keep making knives and or collecting them, you will start to appreciate modern stainless steel more as time goes on. I have had problems with high carbon steel recently - it doesn't take major neglect for them to rust. In the case of actually using knives, you're usually busy with something else and it's not quite a luxury anymore to not have to worry about a blade rusting because it's not up to the things you're doing.
 
I am sorry to hear you are have problems with plain carbon steels.

I have a hard time believing that a serious collector wouldn't take the time to take care of the knives they purchased.

The new stainless stuff is nice because people either don't know how to properly take care of their steel or they are lazy. A Justice, I am not saying you are either of those, but the generations now seems to be.

Carbon steels have been around a long time and a solider can take care of their tools. I grew up in a military family, I have family that have served and still serve, they are taught to take care of their tools, your life depends on them. Would if be easier to just have no teeth and use denatures? Yes, but I would rather brush my teeth.

I hate rust, and I still make knives out of high carbon knives. Many many master smiths, journeyman smiths and normal makers do to.

I don't understand why this is such a big deal, I was curious about bead blasting a Mule because I wanted to bead blast the handles. In fact I am going to blast the handles.
 
TheWeatherman said:
I don't understand why this is such a big deal, I was curious about bead blasting a Mule because I wanted to bead blast the handles. In fact I am going to blast the handles.
Click to expand...

I don't understand why you wouldn't just blast the scales before mounting them? Any steel with a blasted finish is going to require more care to prevent rust than a satin etc finished one. Why make more work for yourself? Laziness or not, work smarter not harder.
 
I don't plan on having scales that come off. It is way easier to attach them, shape them, and then blast them.

I am not blasting the steel, just the handle.

However, There are many makers who bead blast stainless with no problems.
 
Jastab said:
That's a much better answer. He could have stated that from the start instead of giving the idea to the OP that it could still corrode. If it'll be fine then why say anything without specifying which steels it could hurt...
Click to expand...
I was speaking directly about bead blasting finishes, and what is considered to be common knowledge about what happens to the steel. The Op never specified what mule he was referring to, until I asked. Now you are assuming now that I am implying things which I have not stated? :confused: the instance in which a BB knife developed rust was from riding in a sweaty pocket on a humid day in the summer. There isn't much a coat of oil can do when you are working in 80%+ humidity and 95F+ Monsoon weather.

Let me clarify, most media blasting opens the pores on steel, Titanium, and anything else it's done to. This traps water on the surface in the small craters developed on the surface. Water then corrodes whatever is left on the blade, metal particles rubbed off on the blade, slurry from sharpening, or whatever the case is.

In short, look at the composition of S110V, search for discussions on its corrosion properties. You will find that it is very uncommon to see S110V rust, unless it's overhardened.
 
I am going to start a WIP on handling my mule.

As far as I am concerned this thread has run it's course. RecDevil, thanks for your help.
 
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