Bead Blasting

Joined
Nov 2, 1999
Messages
267
I have a khukuri which I would like to get the blade bead blasted. I have been calling machine shops but no one seems to have the equipment. Does anyone know who could this for me or what do I look for in the yellow pages? If anyone can lead me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
 
You can check garages and automotive (engine) machine shops too. I have a bead blast cabinet at my shop,I`d be happy to do it for ya for free but I`m in Pa. the shipping would cost far more than the job would locally. Marcus
 
Hi OMRie,

Keep in mind that beat blasting is going to make that blade more prone to rusting due to the open pores that std bead blasting will do.
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Ceramic beat blasting on the other hand will burnish the surface and seal it, but lots of places don't use the CBB. The CBB gives it a unique looking surface that is a bit slippery.

Just my two cents. You can satin the blade if you don't want it so shiny, but that would take a bit of elbow grease.
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Some times it best to leave it alone....LOL. Take care.
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Ray 'md2020'

ATKI member #A001042
 
Hi maddog, for a satin finish I just use sand paper? Finer and finer grits?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'm thinking I'll try the satin finish first, then depending on the results I'll try the bead blast.
 
Omrie: First, I think I know which model you want to bead blast. Second, I can do a satin finish for you using one of the wheels on my buffing wheel. I have no idea what to charge for the service, but make me an offer and I'll likely accept.

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Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
You can grind up thru 400-600 grit and then hand sand from 280 up thru 400 or 600 or 1200 grit, depending on desire of finish (lots of elbow grease).

Scotch brite may work as well. Give it a try.
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Show us some pics later one. Good luck.



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Ray 'md2020'

ATKI member #A001042
 
Responding to maddog's comments about bead blasting making it more rust prone:

I am not an expert, but someone I know who has a bead blasting station told me that because the bead blasting makes the surface rough and irregular (on a near microscopic level), it can retain more oil or protectant on its surface than a smooth, shiny surface can. He said because of this, a bead blasted finish can retain the protectant on its surface through more wear and tear than a shiny surface can.

As I said, I'm not an expert and I only know what I read or hear from others. Can anyone verify or logically refute the above? And if it's true, wouldn't this mean that bead blasted blades that are coated with a protectant would fare better, not worse, against rust?
 
No worries maddog! I'm asking whoever reads and has experience. Actually I'm considering blueing using Brownell's Oxphoblue cold blue.

And Craig, it's not for the Rieger, although it needs a something, but I'm not touching it until I'm sure what.

[This message has been edited by OMRie (edited 07-14-2000).]
 
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