Beadblast Equipment?

Joined
Jun 22, 2006
Messages
814
Due to my recent tendon-severing buffer-related mishap, I'm contemplating different finishing techniques for some of my knives. I am looking into getting setup for bead-blasting, but have never used a blasting setup.

Besides the cabinet, what equipment do I need? How do I figure out how big of a compressor to get (must run on 110V)? What type of grit and gun do I need?

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Have a good one,

Nathan
 
www.eastwood.com is your friend for that stuff.

Now, are you talking about "bead" blasting, or media blasting (which beads can also be used?) There are different kinds of media that are for different purposes and I'm sure would also produce different finishes.

Aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, crushed glass, glass beads, walnut shells, steel shot, plastic abrasives and a few others.

Glass beads will give you the best finish without heating up the metal or removing stock. The steel shot can peen the surface and give an interesting finish on metal. I'm basing my responses from seeing different media used in the autobody business.

Eastwood has all the guns, abrasives and everything you need to get started. They are also extremely helpful in recommending products if you give them a call.
 
I've only done one blade so far, but it turned out really nice IMO. This is the media I used - http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=352 I bought a cheap cabinet that came with gun and nozzles. My Compressor cycled a lot when I used it, but it worked....just don't get in a hurry. If you buy a cabinet, it should have then minimum required compressor specs listed. I took the cabinet outside and donned my respirator. The dust from blasting is pretty nasty (silicosis), so take every precaution. There is some media that's supposed to be safer, but I haven't tried it.
 
About 10 CFMs should do it. You probably won't be able to find a 110v compressor that puts out that much.

You can always network multiple compressors into a reverse-manifold (multiple inlets, one outlet) to get the CFMs you need.
 
I recently bought a vibratory tumbler and have found that it does give a lot of interesting finishes on blade steels and Ti. If you're looking solely to cut down on the hand sanding portion of your work, it might save a little time but ,as usual, not as much as hoped for.
 
My first cabinet was one from Harbor Freight and my compressor was a simple 110 unit bought at the farm supply in town. It was a 10 gallon compressor. My compressor now is a 220V unit I had from an old dental office where it used to run 4 operatories. I had it refurbished and have used it since. Its very quiet and very efficient at keeping up with me while taking up very little space in my shop. It also saved me a bunch of money to buy it the way I did.

Mostly when shopping I'd suggest looking at the cabinets and equipment you want personally and buying it from a physical stock. In other words, not having it shipped. My first cabinet came dented and damaged where I ended up having to do that anyways when I took it back to them. Pay attention to the seals around the door/lid and how well that seals up. Also, just because the cabinet comes with a gun doesn't mean you have to settle for that one or the usually cheesy hoses and clamps that come with it. You can change all that and in most cases you probably should. However with that said I used that HF set up just the way it came for about a year before upgrading it. I no longer have the cabinet or the hoses attachments but I got a better sealing one at a local farm supply. I also used their cheap #80 glass beads from HF and feel they work just fine. The longer you use them the better they get IMO which is key to having the cabinet well sealed. I've got my powder about like a fine talc powder at this time and it is putting a finish on titanium I'm very happy with.

It seems all of them will have one or two things that need a tweak to get it where you want it but its doable and once done it will reduce you finish time drastically. Its the only way to go in my opinion.


STR
 
I suggest you consider a gasoline engine powered compressor. I think even the smallest one will easily run a blast cabinet. I bought one and I highly recommend them for shops that only occasionally need compressed air. It was a lot less expensive then having the wiring added for a 220 volt circuit for the shop.

Think about this fact too - You can roll it anywhere you need it and even take it with you if you want to help out a friend with a shop or remodel project. Try doing that with a 220V air compressor.:eek:


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5637
 
Back
Top