Glenn056,
I buy a lot of used knives, probably TSA confiscations 99% of which are production stuff like Emerson, Kershaw, Gerber, ZT, Protech. They all are varied in the type of pivot washers they use.
I always take them apart but before I do, I snug the pivot so that there is zero side to side play and I lube the pivot with some simple sewing machine oil. It usually smoothes it out completely no matter what the pivot material is.
Then I proceed to take them apart just to see what's in there, let me tell you, I find some of the dirtiest nastiest crud molded around the pivot and under the washers on most of them. It seems that the bronze phosphor washers are the ones that get the most damage. With that said, they still seem to function fairly well once lubed! It surprises me every time Lol.
The only time the gritty-ness won't go away is when there is rust.....but dirt, sand, pocket lint are never a problem with lube added. If the pivot is fairly tight, it is very difficult for sand, crud, lint to get beneath the washers. *If sand would get under ANY of the washers, it would probably scratch up the washers pretty bad not sure how much damage it could do to bearings.
From the smallest of the pivot washers to the broadest flattest ones. I have not seen much if any difference in the function of a knife no matter the washers when it it properly cleaned and lubed.
Protech and CRK use very broad diameter washers. Phosphor bronze for the CRK and nylon for the Protech TR3 integrity. To me, they both feel and have felt very smooth for the longest time. They get dirty and gritty, I clean them and they go back to feeling like new. I have never felt any flex from the nylon washers off of the Protech Integrity and none from the CRK's. I actually think (in my humble opinion) that the TR3 feels a bit smoother.
Bearings are a different story, there is so much open space for dirt, lint and sand to get in there. If I were going to a sandy place for an extended period, my first choice would NOT be a bearing knife. I don't think it impairs the function too much but I can't stand that grinding noise. The one thing I will say about bearing pivot knives, if they are machined right, they are 99.9999% of the time very well centered and still flip open nicely no matter the tightness of the pivot. Try over tightening a washer knife by just a teeny bit and see how well / fluid it opens
My favorite pivots in order are
1: Bearings (they just run smoother)
2: Nylon (i find them the smoother than Bronze Phos)
3: Bronze Phosphor (I think they are more susceptible to scratching and only work best when polished. But they seem delicate and can scratch easily)
As far as the prybar type of knife, in order to damage the bearings, you would have to make one or a few of the bearings "out of round" or have it fail / crush completely. But like I said earlier, you can snug the pivot up pretty tight on a bearing knife and that in turn give the bearings a tremendous amount of support. I have never heard of any bearings used in a pivot fail under stress. I would be curious to know if anyone has ever come across this.
Really liking the sealed needle bearing option... I hope someone gets on it!