Becker lazer etching ...

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Jul 3, 2015
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Hey , If/when you remove the paint on these lazer etched Becker knives, is the etching deep enough to keep it there if you end up polishing or sanding with 800 grit or what ever usage in the future?

Or before using paint stripper, has anyone used anything to etch whats there so its a deeper etch ?

I saw some vid where they used a nine volt battery and Q tip dipped in salt water to do etching. I dont know about that. I was thinking drop of acid....

Or maybe that would just make a mess a screw up the factory lazer etch ?
 
You will need to use something to etch the logo deeper should you want to keep it. PCB Etchant dripped on and left to sit for a bit would accomplish this fairly easily, although it can be some nasty stuff if one is not careful.
 
Also pretty easy to rig up an electro-etching setup. Googley. DC (battery), wire, q-tips and saltwater (add some vinegar if you have it). Lots of info on the interwebz. Also here on BF and in this SF as well.
 
I think a gun blue and bleach etch works really well. Just gun blue the sliver BK&T logo etch till its really dark. then put some bleach on it over night. it will rust the logo in pretty deep. then put some paint stripper on it and take off that traction coating.

here is a photo of a knife I just did it to.

just make sure you leave the bleach on a good amount of time so it rusts really well, and really deep on the logo.

You can probably find some videos on youtube about it.

IMG_0231_zps6khnbyxl.jpg
 
I think a gun blue and bleach etch works really well. Just gun blue the sliver BK&T logo etch till its really dark. then put some bleach on it over night. it will rust the logo in pretty deep. then put some paint stripper on it and take off that traction coating.

here is a photo of a knife I just did it to.

just make sure you leave the bleach on a good amount of time so it rusts really well, and really deep on the logo.

You can probably find some videos on youtube about it.

IMG_0231_zps6khnbyxl.jpg


I LIKE it!
 
Electro etching is the best way I have found so far. Gets the nicest crispyest edges on the logo too.

PCB works, but is a pain for sure compared to electro etching. The qtip method works pretty good.

But with no etching at all, the logo will be pretty much gone if you do any sanding or bead blasting after the stripping. Great if you want a sterile knife or to put your own logos or designs on.

Good luck!
 
Hey , If/when you remove the paint on these lazer etched Becker knives, is the etching deep enough to keep it there if you end up polishing or sanding with 800 grit or what ever usage in the future?
No, the lazer etch is not deep at all, just deep enough to penetrate the coating, just discolors the steel, and will not survive any kind of polishing or sanding.


Or before using paint stripper, has anyone used anything to etch whats there so its a deeper etch ?
Yes, there are several posts and YT vids on it.


I saw some vid where they used a nine volt battery and Q tip dipped in salt water to do etching. I dont know about that.
But we do. ;) That simple setup is indeed all you need.

[video=youtube;bV-PItEcLXY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bV-PItEcLXY[/video]
 
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That is the vid I was talking about.

Looks like it etched very deep

The Blueing and bleach I think I will try too. Ill test on a old axe head first

Far as Blueing....
What are you guys using Birchwood Casey Perma Blue or maybe the double strength Super blue ? ? ?


...
 
Actually, that's not deep at all. Certainly not nearly as deep as the rolled stamps. ;)

In the vid, she did it for ~6 minutes. For a shallower etch, just reduce the time.


Note - blueing is not food safe. A few have used it, most do not.
 
I've used the PCB to etch in the past. Takes awhile to get a deep etch. I will have to look into the electric method. I know that blueing isn't food safe and I like all my knifes food safe. Is parkerising food safe? Or would just stripping and natural patina be best?
 
Is parkerising food safe? Or would just stripping and natural patina be best?
IIRC, the final step of the parkerizing process is to soak the park'ed blade in oil and then bake it at a low heat for awhile. If that oil isn't food-safe, it could be an issue.

A stripped and smooth blade is always best for food prep.
 
Got your message, JDM. Yeah, I etched the 16...but not the 9 - at least not the logo. Here's the link for the thing I did on electro-etching: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1157003-Building-an-etcher-and-using-electrochemical-etching-on-a-BK12. Though I did build a dedicated etcher, you can do it with an old cell phone charger or any other DC wall wart type charger....AC darkens the etch but won't make it deeper. You don't really have to etch it that much, even; I go through maybe 3-4 Q-tips per side of the blade and only keep the power on for a minute or less. Just make sure you get the polarity right and you'll be fine. Honestly it's pretty easy and cheap to do and doesn't require buying toxic chemicals (like PCB etchant, an acid). 9 volt, some wire and tape and you're GTG. Good luck. If you have some questions just shoot me an email from my avatar (after the weekend) and I'll send you my phone number. Good luck!
 
Hey Granite,

Thanks for the link and info

I watched a couple videos using a 12 volt car battery charger using the 2 amp setting

So DC is what to use , not AC.

I guess just watch how deep your going. Looked like on one video if you wipe off the black residue every couple touches you can maybe see how deep you've got


.
 
I've used pcb on all my Beckers. Yes, it takes time, but turns out very nice. I just apply, let sit for an hour, rinse, scrub, then dry. I repeat this process 5-6 times per side. So basically, you're looking at a day to complete the process, but it's worth it. Plus, a bottle of pcb is like $7 at radio shack, and it lasts for a long time
 
Yea you will definitely lose the etching, I made that mistake when I stripped and sanded my bk2. I didn't realise it until it was too late, and it didn't take much sanding before it was gone.

Luckily thou even without the etching there's no mistaking a knife like the bk2 for any thing else. That goes for pretty much any Becker thou, no branding needed as they stand out from the crowd.

5n2M516.jpg
 
I have a person in Knoxville who doe's Electro Etching and it is 'very deep' and I like it so much I have had 5 of my BK's done
that way and it makes all the difference in the world.!***
 
I have a person in Knoxville who doe's Electro Etching and it is 'very deep' and I like it so much I have had 5 of my BK's done
that way and it makes all the difference in the world.!***

Can we see some examples please?
 
JD there's a cool young bloke here called orezona who did a 'how to' on electro etching in his ZK Tanto. Was concise and had great pitchers. I can't remember the name of the thread but search his name in the KABAR forum and you should find it easy enough. He used the method that GSOM gave advice on up there ^ It was a great 'how to' but any of the advice you've read so far will work great..
 
I Tried practicing on a axe head, put some finger nail paint on, used a flat tooth pick to make a star and a few 'D's

Used a 12 volt battery charger 2 then 10 amps, used some seasoning salt since I dont have any straight salt, q tips

It worked , Didnt even bubble or hiss or anything. Used the seasoning salt water, then went to vinegar and salt. No real differents. went through about 4 Q tips as the ends got black

It worked,,,, not super deep like a roll stamp. Ill have to buy some better salt.

Probably work better on the Becker blade because its a good crisp etched lettering

I wonder what the key is to get it Even and Deep. Maybe washing off the residue with a tooth brush in-between each session, fresh q tips often....?
 
Hey Granitestateofmind, what could I use to do the AC blackening that I might have laying around .

Your ghetto post when you did your bk 16, the etching turned out nice , Good job.
 
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