Becker lazer etching ...

Ill have to buy some better salt.
Use a lot of plain salt, as much as will dissolve in a cup of water. It can't be 'too salty'.


Probably work better on the Becker blade because its a good crisp etched lettering
Yes


I wonder what the key is to get it Even and Deep.
The deeper you go, the less crisp and clean the edges will become.

Remember, you're dealing with a liquid and it will spread out equally downward and laterally.



For AC, I use a wall adapter that outputs VAC instead of VDC. A door bell transformer should work as well.
 
The deeper you go, the less crisp and clean the edges will become

I wont try and go too deep then

I look at all the wall plug charging adapters I have and see if any say VAC

What voltage out put and amps are most adaptors , like cell phone, flash light, rechargable drill like makita?

I wonder what the black stuff is that AC leaves or why its black?
 
For AC everything I have, cell chargers and makita chargers etc read that they are all DC out put

Dont have a door bell. What else would be AC that I could scrounge ?

Oh wait I found a colman latern charger: output 12vac 400ma

not sure 400ma will be strong enough though
 
I wonder what the key is to get it Even and Deep. Maybe washing off the residue with a tooth brush in-between each session, fresh q tips often....?

So the DC to deepen is really simple. I usually go 5 to 10 minutes per side, 8minutes seems to be the key. And sometimes you may need to degrease the logo to get off oil. Go easy and do not use any hard metal brushes to scrub. An old soft toothbrush works great.

I prefer the really deep etches and as long as you keep the pad or q-tip moving, it should be really crisp and even. I recommend doing the etching as soon as possible, cause once you start using the knife, there is a chance that the coating will wear or that the metal on the logo will get oil or patina or even rust. It is best to use the out of the box knives but any will do, even old used ones, just the logos won't be as nice.

Also, if you just blacken the logo using AC then strip the blade, any light sanding will pretty much remove the logo so I would go kinda deep then AC etch or at least deep enough to where you can sand the surface metal after the stripping and not disturb the blackened part.

And I have found that there is no real need to wash off the residue, just dab with a paper towel or clean q-tip and apply more solution to keep etching.

And another way I have made etching tools is to wrap a piece of cloth folded over a couple times or even a cotton ball to the end of a metal rod or maybe even a wood rod would work. Then wrap something like copper wire around the cloth or cotton to attach to the electric current, and as long as the solution is soaked into the cotton and touching the metal or copper wire, it will work great. It's sometimes easier to use a larger pad than just a q-tip I find.
 
Great tips Dex! I have yet to try this but it is on the list. A few of these pointers I have not come across so that's great info.
 
I just did my etching AC and DC

Battery charger on 10 amps for DC etching , 8 Q-tip ends worth per side

For AC I used a colman lantern wall charger: output 12vac 400ma... Worked great for the blackening and one fast pass and it was blackened, piece of cake.

The AC blackening is amazing

Now to strip .....
 
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That came out perfect man, great work! These guys sure know their stuff man...
 
Nice.

Didn't see this post but my input was obviously not needed. It's a cool electrochemical science experiment to etch onto other stuff too, basically anything metal.

You can have vinyl stickers cut to use as stencils or if you're brave, just cut the shape out of painters tape once it's applied.

Here's the thread that BeeKay was talking about:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1272764-Electro-Etching-First-Try

I also etched the laser engraving on my Famine Tanto:

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BZZZZZRRRRTTTT*!!!

Anyways, really nice work on yours. I haven't tried AC etching yet but at some point I'm sure I will. Modding knives is fun!
 
Thanks, and thanks to Granitestateofmind for the tutorial and pictures

You are more than welcome. I did the vinyl resist on my 9; the AC blackening will scrub off pretty easily in my experience, tho.

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I didn't go that deep, though - it was a LOT of etching to do. Maybe that's why the black is off now - though it did come off pretty easily.

Here's the thread: Celtic Pattern etching my 9
 
I scrubbed mine after I finished with a old tooth brush and a bit of toothpaste,,,put a finger of baking soda on there too and rinsed with water to neutralize any acid... I think it polished off alittle ac black on the 'T' or I thought it wasnt completely blacked. So I just hit it with a AC Q tip a bit more
 
Nice job man!!

That came out fantastic.

Did notice the little A's lost the inside. They are tricky for sure. Have to be super carfull not to Touch or flake off the little bit of coating there, and even then you wil lose them most of the time.
 
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