Beckers and Prying? (Others for prying?)

fulloflead

fulloflead

Joined
May 3, 2002
Messages
6,192
I'm really thinking about getting a Becker TacTool or Brute (or both - that's OK) for hard work. This work will definately include prying.

Don't lecture! I know. I know.
(I'm going to carry gloves, a large knife a small folder and a large handgun. Notice no prybar in that list. ;) )

Anyway, I'm disturbed because THIS tester broke his:
http://tinyurl.com/2tv3x

It was the BK9 which is a tiny bit thinner than the ones I listed, but not by much. The TacTool is a little thicker and uniform throughout the knife.
The Brute is a full 1/4 inch but that's only at the thickest parts and there aren't many of those.
Is the steel really that brittle?

I've actually considered and reconsidered the Strider version of the TacTool called BD. I really like it, but it's shorter and I can't justify the price for how seldom I'll be using it.

I've considered the SOG Tigershark, Swamprat Battlerat, Cold Steel Trailmaster, Fallkniven A1 or MC1 and Marbles Trailmaker.
I think I want it to have an exposed pommel/full tang so I can pound the end and I'm not too crazy about rubber. Maybe the Trailmaker.

At least the Beckers I can cord-wrap like a Strider because I hate Becker's handles.

Anyway, will the Becker TacTool or Brute break? (200 lbs. lateral pressure.)

Are there any other products out there LIKE the Becker TacTool or Strider BD?

[Edited to add: I'm only interested in mostly-straight blades where the tip is in line with the handle.]
 
You won't break an HI Ang Khola. Especially one with a chiruwa tang (trust me, I tried). Check the link in my sig for details.
 
If you REALLY want a large sharpened prybar, get a Cold Steel Trailmaster, and cord-wrap the rubber handle. With a blade of 5/16ths an inch thick, it should be pretty tough to break it with just hand pressure alone.
 
Cliff has a way of breaking knives that is not necessarily representative of what you might find. On the other hand the Beckers are not made with a basic carbon steel like 1095 or 1080 they are made with a cutlery steel. It seems like Camillus is making them a little on the hard side to use as prybars. For that purpose I would look for something made out of a simple steel or edge hardened, like a Swamp Rat.

When you see a knife made from SK5 that is pretty similar to 1084 and would be a good choice. So for a Cold Steel knife I would look for SK5 rather than CarbonV.
 
I want to add that I'm only interested in mostly-straight blades where the tip is in line with the handle.
 
glockman99 said:
If you REALLY want a large sharpened prybar, get a Cold Steel Trailmaster, and cord-wrap the rubber handle. With a blade of 5/16ths an inch thick, it should be pretty tough to break it with just hand pressure alone.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Tell me more.
How would I wrap the handle with no holes?
Is it full-tang construction? Can I stick the tip in something and beat the end of the handle with something to drive it in without screwing up the handle too much?

Doesn't the leather Cold Steel sheath suck?

I've read that the Kraton handle starts to twist and move real easy. True?
 
"...Is it full-tang construction? Can I stick the tip in something and beat the end of the handle with something to drive it in without screwing up the handle too much? Doesn't the leather Cold Steel sheath suck? I've read that the Kraton handle starts to twist and move real easy. True?"

So, I'm not Glockman, but I do own the Cold Steel SRK and feel I can answer a couple of your questions. The blades are full-tang or close to it. However, the Kraton covers over the tang, so pounding it with a hammer may rip the Kraton. I have tried to break the tip off my SRK by sticking it into a hunk of wood and jerking it swiftly side-to-side. My rationale was, "If I'wm going to depend on this thing, I need to know what it can and can't do." So, I batoned, chiseled and pounded through wood. The knife suffered no damage, not even a bent tip. My Kraton handle hasn't started to loosen. I've owned the SRK for 2 years. As for the leather sheath, I think it's passable. The SRK comes with a Concealex sheath, so I don't have first-hand experience with the Trailmaster's leather. I read that Cold Steel has re-introduced the Recon Scout; it is a 7 1/2" version of the Trailmaster. This time around, however, they are said to come with a Kydex/Concealex sheath (if I remember correctly). You can verify this by going to their site and looking at the "New" section.
Good luck in your seaarch (That's half the fun anyways, right? :cool: )
 
Trout Tamer,

Thanks for the info on the tangs of the CS. The Trailmaster has a bit different geometry than your knife which is more short and stout so I'd still like to hear "breakage" tests of the Trailmaster.

I have a bunch of their stupid videos. Maybe I should watch them again. I wasn't paying much attention the first time. ;)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by glockman99
If you REALLY want a large sharpened prybar, get a Cold Steel Trailmaster, and cord-wrap the rubber handle. With a blade of 5/16ths an inch thick, it should be pretty tough to break it with just hand pressure alone.

fulloflead said:
Interesting. Tell me more.
How would I wrap the handle with no holes?
Is it full-tang construction? Can I stick the tip in something and beat the end of the handle with something to drive it in without screwing up the handle too much?

Doesn't the leather Cold Steel sheath suck?

I've read that the Kraton handle starts to twist and move real easy. True?
Click to expand...
Sorry...I can't help ya much there, as I didn't take any of my Trailmasters apart, nor did I wrap the handles...However, I didn't think that the sheath was all THAT bad.:).
 
glockman99 said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by glockman99

Sorry...I can't help ya much there, as I didn't take any of my Trailmasters apart, nor did I wrap the handles...However, I didn't think that the sheath was all THAT bad.:).
Click to expand...

OK, you're a short-post kinda guy, so I'll make it easy for you... ;)

If you had the opportunity (which I do) to replace the factory sheath with a custom one made by a knifemaker: The custom one being: a plain-looking brown but stronger and sturdier and made of heavily-stiched thick leather of the same design for $45.00 + plus shipping would you pay that to replace the factory sheath you have?

Extra credit: If not, what kind of sheath would you choose and what would you pay to replace the sheath that you say isn't "THAT bad" (any sheath/any price).

:confused: ;)
 
I can't think of one situation, outside of pisspoor planning or plain negligence, that I would need to use a knife as a prybar. The one time I did use one was to pry open a smashed car door open and I did so with a tire iron...
 
fulloflead said:
OK, you're a short-post kinda guy, so I'll make it easy for you... ;)

If you had the opportunity (which I do) to replace the factory sheath with a custom one made by a knifemaker: The custom one being: a plain-looking brown but stronger and sturdier and made of heavily-stiched thick leather of the same design for $45.00 + plus shipping would you pay that to replace the factory sheath you have?

Extra credit: If not, what kind of sheath would you choose and what would you pay to replace the sheath that you say isn't "THAT bad" (any sheath/any price).

:confused: ;)
Click to expand...
Sorry for the short answer (again :D), but I really wouldn't replace the leather sheath that comes with the Trailmaster, as none of the ones that I had ever fell apart on me, and held the knife pretty securely. I'm not 100% sure about this, but it seems like Cold Steel also had a Cordura sheath for the Trailmaster that also wasn't too bad.
 
Melancholymutt, just because you can' think of one does not mean there isn't plenty of times people find themselves with just a folder and a real need to pry.

As a fire fighter I got a whole rig full of the best prying, cutting,forcing tools money can buy,yet theres have been times I used my folder to pry.Is it poor planning when inspecting the 15th floor of a highrise, we come upon a woman with her hand stuck up inside a candy machine and I use my folder to pry up the flap to free her hand? or should I carry a 15 pound bar with me while inspecting? I think it was great planning as I bought a knife I could do this with.

Or the time I was coaching basketball.After a game we were closeing the bleachers and a kid got his hand caught between 2 boards.We tried to back the bleachers out but that caused more pain.Its Sunday,no maintainace people or tools.My folder allowed us to open the space up to let us get our fingers in to lift the board enough to get the fingers out.

I'm coaching a game in a Sportshirt and sweats.I guess its poor planning that coaches don't carry pry bars... :rolleyes:

I could go on with other examples,but time to go workout.
 
Well said Lone Hunter. The Boy Scouts really hit the nail on the head with "Always be prepared". Best motto out there IMO. :)
 
Lone Hunter,
It's great that you've got a knife to pry the flap on a candy machine, but really, does it really take a knife? could you not just push the little flap with your hand? Do you really need to risk breaking your knife, or destroying property or injuring the poor woman?

If your only tool is a hammer, then all your problems start looking like nails. The truth of the matter is that there are a lot of tools that can be used as a prybar rather than your knife. ie an 8 inch flat chisel, a screwdriver, a small shovel...

I mean, it don't matter to me what one chooses to use as a prybar. Use your damascus William&Henry for all I care... I'm just saying that it's piss-poor planning, and you're going to ruin your tip, if not your knife altogether.
 
If the leather sheath of the Trailmaster is the same construction/quality of the Recon Scout, I think I would replace it with the one you describe. The sheath that came with my Scout is barely acceptable, the leather is just too thin. $45 for a heavy duty custom leather sheath sounds reasonable to me.
 
I don't know much about the breaking point of a BK9, but I am fairly positive Cliff could break a ball bearing if given the chance.
 
I see now I should walk around inspecting offices with a small shovel or wood chisel.

Its ok to use wood chisels to pry? what about the right tool for the job?? Can I get a neck sheath for it?

I get paid to destory property :D .And the knife was not going to break,her arm was well away from my blade which was turned spine toward her and the flaps can't be pushed up thats the IDEA to keep the goodies safe from thiefs.

Not everyones edc chores are cutting fruit and mail open.Some like police,fire,military find themselfs with a task that needs to be done now.With the tools at hand maybe not "the right one" whatever that is. Maybe after you lost,dropped the "right one".Maybe after things changed and the "right one" you brought is no longer the "right one" you need.


Once we had to walk a fair distance to reach a trauma victim.We brought the right tools,backboard,collars,o2 kit, trauma box etc. Guess what box was jambed shut,could not get the latches opened at all.I could have walked back to the rig,while the kid layed bleeding instead I popped the latches with my tanto point.GASP!! I guess I should order the men to carry a small shovel at all times.

No wait,thats the right tool for digging..... oh a wood chisel thats right.

Now I'm going to sit in the hot tub and smoke a cigar before going in to work,perhaps I'll cut the end off my cigar with my new edc shovel.
 
I'd consider softening the TAC Tool since it is up around 58 RC. Pull the handles off and bake at 550 degrees for an hour. It is well shaped for the job, but a little overly hard.
 
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