become a reviewer and KEEP what you review CONTEST -- *WINNER CHOSEN!*

Here it goes...

This knife is a modified DDR custom HD Maxx. I placed the order with Darrel personally at a show in 09. This is IIRC, a 1/12 piece. It is a Heavy Duty version of the 5.5 Maxx. The blade mics out at .191" of S30v and the Ti handle slabs are stout .183" with a .040" lock cut out. Length closed is 6.25" and open is 11.75" with a sharpened length of 5". This knife is not for the faint hearted. The handle has a single CF inlay with DDR's Maltese cross on the clip and pivot.

As far as mods, this was an assisted opening knife when I received it from Darrel. I am not a fan of assisted openings so I removed the mechanism. I had Darrel drill it for L/R tip up carry to utilize the horn as a wave hook. I shortly learned that the opposing flipper horn also snagged my pocket, negating a wave draw. I promptly ground it off. Since I am not able to tap Ti, I sent it off to Reese Weiland to have lower pocket clip holes made and to have the D CF inlay ground flat since it also hindered my draw. After I got it back, I completed it by giving it a high convex to compliment the hollow ground recurve tanto.

End opinion... This has been my go to knife for all social outings. It's classy yet sassy. I have sold off most of my collection but this one remains. I can trust my life on its beefy framelock and blade.

PS, this was written from my Droid phone. It's the only way I have to access the net.

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Allright, now I know I can't officially enter to win as I'm outside of the US. But does anyone mind if I place one just for giggles anyway?

I really do enjoy writing reviews and spent quite a bit of time constructing a template for what I feel they should look like. So for me this would just be a place to show off what I'd spent a lot of time on.
 
I'm gonna ask Darrel when I call him next week if we can open this to people outside the US.
 
I saw. But even if he doesn't want to open it up. Would you mind me posting one anyway? I wouldn't be surprised if he does want to keep it US only. But I wouldn't mind just playing for S@#s and giggles.
 
Cool. Well, here's one of the most recent ones I did:

A.G. Russell Curved Regular Jack in Amber Bone

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A while back I noticed that A.G. Russell was putting out a new model slipjoint. This time one sized a little smaller than their Sowbelly Trapper but still with wonderfull materials and offcourse the build quality, fit and Finish that we’re so used to by A.G. Russell. It was after an old Pattern called a Regular Curved Jack with all of the A.G. Russell standard upgrades.
Two blade configurations were made and two types of handle materials introduced. And after my experience with the Sowbelly trapper’s massived wharncliffe blade I was curious about how I’d like a smaller wharncliffe knife. So I got my brother to bring me one back from the states.
My findings with it (after about half a year of regular carry) are outlined in this review.

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Materials

  • Blade Steel: 12C27 57-58Hrc
  • Liners: Stainless
  • Bolsters: Stainless
  • Backspring: Stainless
  • Shield: Stainless
  • Pins: Brass
  • Scales: Amber Jigged Bone

As far as slipjoints go this knife is premium materials all around. The blade steel could have been upgraded if possible but other than that there really is nothing that could be done better. Slipjoints with stainless hardware are pretty much only seen in the realm of Custom Knives. And the blade steel, slipjoint lovers in general are known for often preferring ease of sharpening over edge retention. 12C27 is also extremely stain resistant and a steel used very often in French knives because this makes them good to use in combination with foodstuff. (Something I can attest to as it shows no sign of corrosion even after a lot of use.)

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Sizes
  • Blade length: 3” (around 7,5cm)
  • Closed length: 3 5/8” (8,4cm)
  • Opened length: 6 3/8” (16cm)
  • Closed width: 1 1/8” (2,5cm)
  • Handle thickness: 5/8” (0,8cm)
  • Blade thickness: 1/8” (0,3cm)

The knife is very pocketable. At the same time it’s still enough of a knife to get a lot done. It’s big enough that you can get a solid fullhanded grip on it yet not so big that it actually feels large. I like this size in a knife.

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Build Quality
From the comments I’ve read Mr. Russell prides himself on a couple of things in his business, one is customer service.
The other is the fit and finish of his knives. And this knife is no exception to that rule. Everything is solid, tight and built to close tolerances. The grinds are clean, there are no gaps anywhere.
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The bolsters go over into the scales very smoothly. The backspring is nice and flush in both open and closed position (no halfstop on this knife) and even the inside of the liners and backspring are somewhat polished. (This is a rarity in slipjoints from what I’ve been told) Once again this knife shows levels of fit and finish that are usually only found in custom knifes. (in general)
I’ve so far held knives from Queen, Rough Rider and GEC (slipjoints that is). And although they all shine at various points of fit and finish, none of them score high on all points like the A.G. Russell knives do.

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It also has excellent walk (the feeling of opening and closing the knife), very smooth indeed, and talk (the sound of it snapping shut). The somewhat thick blade (for a slipjoint) combined with Mr Russell’s very own stop pin design (which makes it impossible for the blade to hit the backspring even if you push down on it) make it sound like something very solid slamming shut , like a tiny vault. It’s also a bit stiff in opening but not enough that it can’t be opened in a pinch grip. In fact the pinch grip works so well that I don’t think I’ve ever opened it using the nail nick.
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Sharpness
There are three aspects that you can look at when talking about sharpness that comes with a knife. 1) Initial sharpness (or out of the box sharpness) , 2) sharpenability (is that a word?) and 3) edge retention.
Lets have a look at them one by one:
1) Initial sharpness
The factory grind on this knife was decently sharp. It was a little rough (it usually is coming from the factory on any knife) but sharp enough that it could shave arm hair without much of a problem. The edge had enough of a bite to it that it could slice paper fairly well. For my personal taste though the angle was a little obtuse and I figured I could do a lot better.

2) Sharpenability (or, how easy is it to sharpen it up)
The Sandvik 12C27 is an easy steel to get sharp, at least at this hardness. Without much trouble at all I could reset the edge on this knife using only my yellow Belgian Coticule wetstone. I did this freehand and could get a thinner edge no problem within I think 15 minutes of working it.
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3) Edge retention
The Edge retention of 12C27 isn’t bad. The steel has been run at a decent hardness and will do fine through tasks involving foodstuffs, softer materials and even wood. Cardboard and more abrasive materials (like foam plastic that I use for my knife presentation boxes) dull the edge fairly quickly and make it use it’s initial bite. This doesn’t mean that it won’t cut after that, just that it won’t slice ad beautifully as it did at first. Luckily the ease of sharpening somewhat makes up for this and a couple of passes on a Spyderco Sharpmaker stone or handy whetstone will touch it up very quickly so that you’re able to get back to working with it.

Comfort
This knife being a single blade is always more comfortable than a mutliblade slipjoint. Simply because when you’re using one blade, there are no other blades digging into your fingers in a solid grip.
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The curve of the handle is well complimented to the shape of the pocket and only broken up by the beginning of the blade (near the spring) that sticks out a little. A sunk joint would have fixed this but I doubt if that would’ve been possible with this design. The edges are well rounded everywhere else and makes that it’s hardly noticeable when pocketed.
In the hand it feels nicely solid. And the curve makes it comfortable to hold. The size as mentioned before is good for some work and yet small enough to be non intimidating to “non knife people”.

Design
The design is after an old pattern according to mr. Russell. Well, I hope he brings back many such patterns in the future. The styling is very unique and seems to be a blend of both traditional and modern. The materials used as well as the finish on the stainless parts give it a modern appearance, while the shape and jigged bone give it an old timey look.

Price
The Curved Regular Jack is priced at $59,95 excluding shipping. In price ranges it’s just a little under what most high quality slipjoints go for and somewhat over what most china made slipjoints go for.
I didn’t mention this before but yes, this knife is made in china. Do not mistake it for it’s cheaper countrymen though. (Like Rough Rider, current Marbles productions and the like) because it’s NOTHING like it.
When looking at this knife simply as a knife and disregarding it’s country of origin the knife is very well priced. Close to cheap even. And if you time it well enough sometimes seconds are on sale (knives with a flaw….but to be honest, I have a “second” version of one of A.G. Russell’s other knives and am not sure where the flaw is) which will save you a couple of dollars.

Overall
An excellent knife made for a very reasonable price. The materials are top notch (yes, even the 12C27 steel which is even better than Case’s Tru-Sharp), the fit and finish are impeccable, the design is very nice and I believe nowhere else to be found. For someone who likes traditional slipjoints and has no quarrel with something being made in China these knives are a must. Even if you don’t like Chinamade knives, if you hold one, you’ll have to admit that it’s top quality.
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I hope you enjoyed my little read. If I my entry doesn't count because I live in Europe I'll understand. If it does....well...hooray.

Have fun all and good luck.
 
Still working on my review--life kind of exploded. Is there a length restriction? I'm not sure if mine will fit into one post.
 
This sounds like a fun idea. I have only done one knife review, it was done in video form, strait through, no pauses, no retakes. If I were to do something on a more professional level, it would likely have retakes.

[video=youtube_share;l7x9W9zi4tQ]http://youtu.be/l7x9W9zi4tQ[/video]
 
HTM Gunhammer in M390, a Darrel Ralph design
By crimsonfalcon07
September 2012

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Table of Contents
Specifications and Pricing
History and Details
Unboxing
The Blade—Grind, Geometry, and Performance
The Handle—Ergonomics and Design
The Lock
Fit and Finish
Odds and Ends
Pros and Cons
Conclusion

Specifications and Pricing

The HTM Gunhammer in M390 is a Knife Center exclusive limited edition. I received mine as a prize for winning a photo contest put on by the HTM crew on Blade Forums in the HTM Subforum. There are only 30 pieces of each run, so you will need to look for them on the secondary market, as the plain edge variation is no longer available at the time of this review at Knife Center, although the combo edge is still listed as being in stock. The knife is 4.25” long closed, and 8” long open, with a 3.5” blade, making it legal for carry in most states in the U.S.A., although you may want to check your specific laws. I will not be held responsible if you are not aware of the laws in your area.
The blade is made from Bohler M390 stainless steel, which is currently considered a “super steel” by some, due to its fine performance. The blade is tempered to 62 HRC, and comes in either a satin finish, or a non-glare finish using HTM's excellent DLC (diamond-like-carbon) coating. Mine is the satin finish. The knife uses Darrel's bowie shape, and comes in either combo or plain edge. This particular knife is the plain edge variation.
The handle is made out of 3D-machined aluminum, which has been anodized in a black Military Type III hard coat. The texturing on the handle is Darrel's ETAC (ergonomic tactical) design, which provides a solid grip and an elegant look. It weighs in at 5.2 oz (compare to 4.7 oz for a large Sebenza, or 5.8 oz for a ZT 0560), and uses a hefty .09” Titanium liner lock to secure the blade in the cutting position. The knife uses Darrel's Assisted Opening mechanism, which has more kick to it than any other AO mechanism I've ever used. More on that later... Some of you may be happy to learn that it is Made In the USA (capitalized on purpose). The knife retails for 234.95 USD for the combo edge which is still in stock.

Specifications

Blade Steel: Bohler M390 Stainless Steel, 62HRC
Handle Material: 3D Machined ergonomic ETAC GRIP
Blade Style: Bowie, Plain Edge or Combo Edge
Blade Finish: Satin, Non-Glare
Blade Length: 3-1/2"
Open length: 8"
Closed Length: 4.25"
Locking Mechanism: 0.09” Titanium Liner Lock
Weight: 5.2 oz.*
Made in the USA
Lifetime Warranty


History and Details

The Gunhammer was introduced in 2004, and has become one of Darrel's best selling designs over the past 8 years. During this time period, it has seen a number of changes, from new pivots, different thicknesses for the blades, changing grind heights, to new anodization techniques. Darrel and HTM (Hand Tech Made) are constantly looking for ways to improve their product. Darrel has been described as a visionary, and as a custom knifemaker whose work is so in demand that it has been described as “some of the most sought-after in history.” I admit to some bias, in that Darrel has been my favorite designer since I got into knives. I believe the Gunhammer is so-called because the styling of the flipper is reminiscent of the hammer on a Colt Commander pistol.

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A fair review should note that HTM's QC team experienced a number of issues during the release of this knife, and was subsequently let go by HTM. Some customers did receive M390 Gunhammers that were not satisfactory, so if you do end up with a defective model, please do call HTM at (740) 965 – 9970, and I'm sure they will take care of you. Darrel's customer service is second to none, and the Gunhammer does come with a lifetime warranty. *Rant alert: It is a source of constant surprise to me that people consider the warranty a selling point, and yet some of those same people never think to actually use the warranty if the knife is defective before they complain about it. Fortunately, my knife was perfect out of the box, and should serve as a good example of the type of knife you will be getting, hopefully without needing to use your warranty. So, what type of knife will you be getting?

Unboxing

Like all HTM knives, the knife will arrive in HTM's attractive box:

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I think packaging is often indicative of the company's philosophy. If it's a company which aims to provide cheap knives for the undiscerning company, they'll shove the knife in that clamshell plastic packaging that requires a really good knife to open. In fact, some of those knives that come in said packaging aren't even sharp enough to cut themselves out of that packaging. I've been known to say that such clamshell packaging is a good test of an EDC knife. Most decent production knives will come in a no-frills box with the company's logo on it. HTM's box, on the other hand, is sturdy cardboard, and even includes a distinctive geometric design. The box is actually sturdy enough for use as a gift box for jewelry or other things. To me, that confirms that HTM truly is a mid-tech company (a step above production knives in terms of quality, while not actually being a full-on custom). Most knives will come in a little foam nest. HTM provides you with the same cushioned zipper case that all DDR knives come in.

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Again, the quality of the case screams quality. It's made from durable nylon fabric with nice tight stitching with good quality thread, a nice soft liner with plenty of foam to cushion your knife, and a solid zipper. The best part is that the case is actually large enough to fit a pair of eyeglasses or sunglasses. I don't ever use the case for my knives, because my HTM knives are for every day carry. However, I've used them to protect a spare pair of glasses, and they do a fairly good job at that, despite not being a hard case. The case can also fit 2 knives in a pinch, although they'll be snuggled up close, and may scratch each other.

Open the case, and you'll get your first glimpse of the knife:

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The first time I looked at a Gunhammer, I thought that it looked too small to actually house a blade as large as it was advertised as having. However, Darrel's design philosophy is renowned for minimizing handle size while maximizing blade size. If you've ever seen his Madd Maxx folding dagger, you'll realize that it takes a designer with a lot of skill to design a full-on dagger that can fold up and still be small enough to be portable in a (large) pocket. That same skill went into the Gunhammer's design. Press the flipper, hold on tight, and out pops a surprisingly large blade.

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Be warned, Darrel's Assisted Opening Mechanism has a lot of oomph to it. I usually have to warn people to hang on tight when they deploy the knife, because it can actually kick itself out of your hand. Of course, once you've opened the blade, you're probably hoping to cut stuff. So, let's talk about the blade!

The Blade—Grind, Geometry, and Performance

The blade on this knife is 3.5” of satin finished M390 super steel. For the metallurgically inclined among the readers, M390's composition is 1.9% carbon, 20% chromium (which makes it stainless), 4% vanadium, which contributes to wear resistance and hardenability (which may account for why M390 can be tempered to 62 HRC, while popular steels like S30V usually run around 58-60 HRC), 1% molybdenum (which prevents brittleness, and allows maintains steel strength at high temperatures, which means it has a high austenizing temperature and may form the other part of the picture that allows higher HRC than most steels), .7% silicon (for strength), .6% tungsten (contributes to better wear resistance), and .3% manganese (for grain structure and hardenability). M390 is a powder metal, which I believe gives it a finer grain structure, which may contribute to M390's ability to take a fine edge. It has a higher wear resistance than S30V or CPM 154 while retaining a high corrosion resistance, but has a lower toughness overall. I think the major advantage to M390 over the S30V models I've used before is that it is much easier to sharpen, and takes a very fine polish (although I prefer a micro-serrated edge on my user knives), but retains that edge for a very long time. Those features make it a good choice for an every day carry knife, and the fine grain structure and ease of polishing make it a good choice for a mid-tech folder as well. I found the following chart from www.simplytoolsteel.com to be interesting, and reproduced it here for your reference as well.

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The geometry of the knife is excellent as well. The bowie and torpedo blade shapes have almost identical curvature, which seems to work well for a normal cutting motion: your hand will travel maybe 2.25” horizontally, while you get the full 4” length of the edge against the surface you're cutting. However, the bowie blade has a very slight recurve, so it may have slightly better cutting ability in a draw cut.

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The new grind on this knife is lower than on the earlier torpedo rendition I have, which has a very high grind. It's now .75” up the blade, instead of a full inch. I generally prefer higher grinds, but I think this one makes sense for the M390, particularly since it may help provide better lateral strength (although you should still never pry with your folding knife). The blade is also thicker, at nearly 4mm thick, compared to around 3mm for earlier models.

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I believe the edge angle on a stock Gunhammer is 35 degrees, which provides for a nice slicy edge. Mine came razor sharp, and even after nearly 2 months of carry and moderate use without ANY resharpening or stropping at all, is still sharp enough to shave!

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The finish on the knife is excellent as well. You can spot some very faint grind marks upon a very close inspection in the right light, which are generally much fainter than the far more visible ones on my Benchmade 950 Rift or any Spyderco knife I've ever seen. It's definitely clear that the finish quality is much higher than on any production blade that I've ever seen, and the overall finish has an even look that appears to be generated by media blasting or something similar. I prefer stonewashed to any other finish, but this one is very smooth, and probably enhances cutting ability and corrosion resistance. Of course, one possible downside to such a smooth finish on an EDC knife is that oils and dirt show up much more clearly against the surface. It cleans up pretty well if you rub it with one of those cloths for cleaning eyeglasses, but if you use it like I do, it's so pretty that it almost feels a shame to smudge it. The grinds are perfectly even, and the tip profile from the back of the blade is perfect:

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There's also jimping on the back of the blade. The jimping is fairly thin and closer together than on previous models, and gives very good grip to your thumb.

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Performance is excellent. I've cut probably 500 strips of cardboard with it over the past couple months, and it can still easily pushcut paper, shave, and perform other tasks. I've used it for a wide variety of tasks for the past few months, including whittling, cutting zipties, and the bowie blade provides good penetration with the point. And, it can handle those pesky thick plastic clamshells with ease. I'm impressed that, after 2 months of every day carry, it can still easily cut paper and shave. And, at the point of starting this review, I hadn't touched the edge up at all; all this is still with the factory edge!

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Then I tried it out on some leather, so I could see how clean the cuts were. Here's the result:

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Well, cardboard, paper, and shaving are all popular city EDC tasks, but I wanted to give it a tougher test, so I tried out some tough .25” manila rope. The fibers on such a rope are a good test for an EDC knife. I was able to push cut it through the entire rope with a fair amount of force:

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However, on a draw cut, it only severed 2 of the 3 strands, despite enough force to cut a fairly deep gouge into the bamboo cutting board.

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I next tried running the blade over the bamboo cutting board repeatedly for about an hour and a half while I watched a movie, so as to dull the blade. The repetitive movement had a couple bad side effects—I got a cramp in my hand, and my wife slugged me in the arm really hard at the end of the movie. The edge, unfortunately for my review purposes, was STILL shaving sharp, although there were some barely perceptible blips on the edge that I at first thought were slight chips, but when I brushed the edge off on the leg of my pants, they went away. Curses! I ended up running the sharpmaker gray rod over the edge to dull it, so I could test ease of sharpening. I returned the edge to shaving sharpness in a matter of a few minutes. I'm actually really impressed with M390. It's a very good steel, although I suppose that I won't try any prying abuse due to the overall lower toughness.
 
I still think this blade would hold up very well to hard use, but I'm not a believer in “tests” like batoning folders, prying, and other things that generally qualify as abuse. Of course, the blade isn't the only important part of a knife. What about the handle, you ask?

The Handle—Ergonomics and Design

The handle design is actually what sold me entirely on the Gunhammer. Okay, I should admit, the Gunhammer is my favorite knife of all time. If it came with an AXIS lock or something similar, it would be my ultimate grail knife. Woe and alas, I am still waiting on such a development. See how patient I'm being? What do I like so much about the handle design, you ask? For starters, I really like how close the handle to blade ratio is. It's only 4.25” long, but unfolds to a whopping 8” OAL, with a 3.5” cutting edge. You get a lot of blade in a relatively small package when closed. I also like the contouring of the handle.

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The handle fits the shape of your hand very well, with two large indents for your pointer and middle fingers (and it works quite well for people with both big and small hands), and a nice curve for the other two fingers. It's curved slightly forward, which helps keep the knife in your hands, so it doesn't fly out, while having a nice curve that fits into the palm very well. This knife fits my hand like a glove in most standard grips.

Hammer or saber grip:
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Reverse grip: edge out:
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You can also choke up on the blade if you don't have terribly wide fingers, and put your finger in the unsharpened choil area by the ricasso:
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However, it's not comfortable in a reverse grip with the edge in, as the flipper pokes into your palm. That may be true for most flippers, however.

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But that's not all. Most production knives tend to be fairly blocky affairs (take most Spyderco knives, and most of the Kershaw/ZT lineup for examples) in the 3rd dimension. Spyderco in particular has a knack for designing knives that are comfortable, despite being largely flat in the 3rd dimension. I really prefer full contouring, where the knife is actually rounded. My hand isn't rectangular, so why should a handle be only shaped in 2 dimension? The Gunhammer is 3D machined, and contoured in 3 dimensions, making it highly comfortable. You can kind of see how it's shaped from this picture:

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It's fairly obvious from a deployed position as well. Note the contouring for the fingers and the curvature along the back of the knife as well:

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The other thing you've probably noticed is that the handle is textured. Darrel calls his texturing ETAC, which stands for Ergonomic TACtical. I sometimes feel that ergonomics is more of an instinctual thing for many designers, which is why Darrel's handles just feel a little more refined to me. I hate a blocky knife, and this fits me to a T. The new Military Type III anodizing on the handles has a nice matte finish, and it feels grippy, yet not uncomfortable to the touch. Have you ever run your hands across a piece of textured G10, and felt like it could abrade your skin? You don't have that problem with ETAC. It's smooth enough to be comfortable, yet textured enough to be grippy, even in a gloved hand.

You may also note the aggressive jimping on the flipper and the Ti liner-lock. It's very easy to deploy the knife with the flipper and to release the liner-lock, and the jimping gives the flipper that distinctive gun hammer look.

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I also really like the pocket clip on this knife. The clip is actually now machined into the handle frame, unlike previous models, and thus feels more comfortable in hand. This is actually the first knife where I didn't immediately remove the pocket clip. I've used it enough to know that I'm actually okay with the pocket clip, for once. There's also a spot machined into the handle so you can attach it tip-up instead of down, although you are limited to one side of the handle. That's not as bad for lefties like myself as you might think. Why, you might ask?

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Remember this pic?

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Notice the indent in the clip, where it provides retention to clip to your pocket? If you look at the knife and where the placement of the clip falls, it's angled down from that second finger groove.

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In fact, it's angled precisely so your finger naturally falls into that point when you're gripping the knife, if you're left-handed like me. If you aren't, the entire clip falls into your palm, which is probably the most comfortable place for it to be. I was surprised by how comfortable it is in either hand. The clip is also longer, and the knife rides reasonably low. It's quite discreet, and usually goes unnoticed, although my propensity for wearing black pants may have something to do with that, as the clip blends in. It's tapered, and generally fairly simple, and the anodization is pretty solid, although mine does show some signs of wear.

Darrel also eschews the use of lanyard holes. Instead, you can hook your lanyard through the spacers in the back of the knife. I think that gives the knife a good look. Earlier renditions also sometimes had a problem whereby the back edge of the knife could stick up enough that it was possible to cut yourself by running the pad of your finger down the back of the knife when it was closed. That issue seems to be resolved with this rendition of the knife.

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I tried to get a picture of the assisted opening mechanism, which uses a coil spring.

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I'm of the opinion that the coil spring is more mechanically sound than the torsion springs that are more commonly used. It's also got one heck of a kick. Did I mention it can jump out of your hand if you're not careful? I did a short video demonstrating the problem with one of the earlier renditions.



This problem (or feature, for those of you who like a kick) is actually not as bad on this newer model, because the blade is a good bit thicker, and therefore requires more energy to move. It's still got a nice kick to it, but doesn't seem to fly out of my hand as easily. Once it deploys, the blade locks up smoothly, which brings us to...

The Lock!

Lock strength is very important to many people, and many consider the liner-lock to be one of the weakest lock types. The liner can bend out of place, rendering the lock non-functional. However, the HTM Gunhammer in M390 uses a beefy .09” thick chunk of titanium. It's actually got a thicker liner-lock than the vaunted ZT 0350, which has an excellent reputation for being able to hold up to a good amount of abuse.

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The jimping on the lock is very refined, and extends all the way across the lock, instead of only being on the inside of the knife. There are now 5 indents instead of 4 half ones. Lockup is solid and early, and there's no blade play on my model at all. There's also a ball-bearing in the lockbar, so the knife deploys silky smooth. It's nice to not have that friction, because assisted openers are harder to close than manual knives. This knife hasn't really given me any problems though.

Fit and Finish

I've addressed fit and finish fairly extensively already, but I do want to reiterate that the fit and finish on this knife is generally higher than what you'll see on most production knives. There are fewer and fainter grind marks on the blade (and on most knives those are generally either fairly visible, or covered up by coatings). Spyderco probably has the best fit and finish of the main production companies, but you'll still notice the occasional uneven grind on those. I'm not sure if this knife is 100% representative of the quality you can expect to see from HTM every time (especially with the QC issues that they had around the time of this run), but if it is, they're fantastic. I can only speak to the knives that I've gotten from HTM (this is my third Gunhammer), and every one has been 100% solid to date. The most noticeable tooling marks are in the indents in the jimping on the lockbar. Aside from that, the rest of the knife is pristine. It's really impressive work, considering it's less expensive than the ZT 560, which is a current popular production knife, and MUCH better than the Rift, which is usually only a little bit less expensive than the Gun Hammer. The fit and finish is what you'd expect out of a mid-tech knife, but it's got a surprisingly low price tag for the quality, in my estimation. Darrel clearly nailed the heat treat, and it's a beautiful knife that gets admired by everyone who's got sharp enough eyes to spot the pocket clip.

Odds and Ends

There are a few other little details worth mentioning, such as the pivot. It's a massive pivot, which looks to be substantially larger than the pivots in older models, and now has a tri-hub design which for some reason I want to call a tsunami. Don't ask me why. It seems rather reminiscent of a shuriken or something.

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Everything about this knife screams strength. It's elegant, yet still built strong. I try to avoid abuse, but I admit that I used one of my earlier Gunhammers to help me pry open some elevator doors when I got stuck in an elevator (surprisingly, that DOES happen outside of movies), and this one is built even tougher than those. I don't ever feel that my knife will be inadequate to any situation I might find myself in. I love the new anodizing as well. On most knives, particularly AO knives, the thumbstuds (or blade stops) smack into the top of the handle, and can cause wear. The new anodizing wears much better than the previous models, as I still have very little wear after 2 months of daily use.

Pros and Cons
Pros
Fit and finish is excellent—not quite custom hand-finish good, but definitely superb
Handle is incredibly comfortable, even for lefties
3D machined and contoured handle with ETAC texturing for grip
Heat treat is perfect
M390 super steel has amazing edge retention, but is still easy to sharpen
Strong pivot
Beefy titanium liner-lock
Aggressive 35 degree factory edge
Refined jimping
Elegant looks
Tough Military Type III anodizing on the aluminum handle scales
Easy to deploy with both thumb studs as well as flipper
Powerful Assisted Opening system
Handle clip that's actually pretty comfortable
Great handle-to-blade ratio
Good looking packaging—including free case
HTM has great customer service

Cons
This particular run may have had some quality control issues
Cannot be held in reverse grip with edge in comfortably
May be too small for people with very large hands
May still be possible to cut yourself through the handle if you really try
Impossible to adjust pivot without removing handle clip
Uses Torx screws, so cannot remove handle clip without a Torx set
More pricy than most production blades
Doesn't use an AXIS-type lock


Conclusion

I had a tough time coming up with things NOT to like about this knife. The Gunhammer already espoused everything that I really like in a knife, from a 3d contoured handle with texturing that's not so aggressive as to be painful, but still good enough to provide grip, a good flipper that's comfortable and easy to deploy, and still function as a guard to prevent my hand from slipping up onto the blade, a comfortable pocket clip, good steel, perfect fit and finish, and built to last, while still retaining an elegant look, and provides a lot of blade in a relatively small package. The newest rendition of Gun Hammer is all that and more. And, I'm incredibly happy about M390 steel. I appreciate that it's easier to sharpen, and am very impressed with how well it cuts. It's not the sharpest knife I own, but it gets the job done, and keeps on doing it, and is easy to maintain. In short, it's an excellent every day carry knife, and has kicked every other knife out of my EDC rotation. It's also backed up by HTM's excellent life-time warranty, and has excellent attention to detail, from the packaging to the performance. Many of the things that I love about this knife are matters of personal preference, and I grant you, if you encounter any of the flawed knives that made it through the period of bad quality control, you may face a few hassles. But, at the end of the journey, I believe you'll end up with a quality tool that you can use with confidence.
 
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If you're talking to me, glad you enjoyed. Getting the ZT 560 in has really cemented for me how much I love the Gun Hammer, when it's done right. The M390 Gunny remains my EDC of choice, without question. Also enjoyed getting my reviewer hat back on. I think I've gotta put up a review of the 560 after I get a chance to use it a bunch.
 
What the heck, I figured I might throw my name in the hat. I won't copy/paste a review into the thread because I keep all my stuff on my website - but feel free to check out my work at http://bladereviews.com - would love to examine an HTM of some sort in the future and do a thorough review... just don't have a ton of cash at the moment unfortunately. And I would include a video review with the writeup.
 
I was lucky enough to recieve a becker BK4 at the beckerhead gathering this past weekend(Thanks again Ethan!) and wanted to see how well it did at the typical camp tasks.

Here is a comparison pic with the BK5, the bk4 is alot smaller than I was picturing in my head, but it's still a beast.
bk4and5.jpg


Chopping. Outchops all my other knives, only belt sized tool I own that chops better is the wetterlings hatchet.
bk4chop.jpg


It did well for carving, better than most tools its size. Only thing I didn't like is how the blade is curved right where I carve, nothing major, easy to get used to.
carving.jpg


Fishing spear, no problems with this.
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Did fine for batonning, not a big piece of wood but through a knot.
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baton2.jpg


When I was talking to Ethan about putting this thing through the paces he told me to try using it as a drawknife. I was thinking, "WTF do you use a drawknife for, making bows or something?". Rather than doing the smart thing and putting the internet to use to find out what draw cutting is all about I just tried it out. Turn out you can make some great feathersticks with this method.
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Fairly fat stuff here.
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Putting the feathersticks and fatlighter to use.
shavingsfatlighterfire1.jpg

shavingsfatlighterfire2.jpg


Overall I think it's a great tool, paired up with the small Remora there's nothing you can't do. If you don't mind this big boy hanging off your leg or you're in the market for a large knife definetly take a look at this thing.
 
Whoever did that first kitchen knife review, could you review the peppercorn steak as well? Damn I'm Hungry from looking at those pics
 
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