Been sharpening 8Cr13MoV on Sharpmaker for 2 hours

Sorry guys forgot about this thread. I was working on a friends Spyderco Tenacious (which I have since given back to him already). I was trying to sharpen it for him overnight to give back to him the next day for work. It had quite a bit of chipping in it from cutting into metal on accident (he works in a warehouse). I feel that I got the edge to 95% and removed most of the chipping, but I could only get 60% of the edge shaving sharp (near the tip and near the pivot). The belly of the blade was noticeably less sharp.
 
00ChevyScott said:
Sorry guys forgot about this thread. I was working on a friends Spyderco Tenacious (which I have since given back to him already). I was trying to sharpen it for him overnight to give back to him the next day for work. It had quite a bit of chipping in it from cutting into metal on accident (he works in a warehouse). I feel that I got the edge to 95% and removed most of the chipping, but I could only get 60% of the edge shaving sharp (near the tip and near the pivot). The belly of the blade was noticeably less sharp.
Click to expand...

Might want to check your overall technique at this point. If you can get part of the blade shaving sharp, then concentrate on how are presenting the knife, the position of the knife in regards to your stroke, and how it feels in the hand when you get to the area of the blade where you are having your best success.

It isn't uncommon to have problems getting the tips and areas nearer the kick sharper than the rest of the blade. Make sure you get some cutting motion immediately when you start your downward stroke so that you will be cutting an edge from the start. Make sure you carefully drag the blade over the stone (maintaining the desired angle) all the way to the tip when you finish your stroke.

Sounds like a little practice and you will have it. And as mentioned above, make sure the cutting surfaces are clean on the rods. If they are clogged from sharpenings or as you are trying to do, remove a lot of material, they will be harder to use and not do a very good job even when they work.

Robert
 
00ChevyScott said:
Sorry guys forgot about this thread. I was working on a friends Spyderco Tenacious (which I have since given back to him already). I was trying to sharpen it for him overnight to give back to him the next day for work. It had quite a bit of chipping in it from cutting into metal on accident (he works in a warehouse). I feel that I got the edge to 95% and removed most of the chipping, but I could only get 60% of the edge shaving sharp (near the tip and near the pivot). The belly of the blade was noticeably less sharp.
Click to expand...

Sounds like maybe a little too much work for the Sharpmaker to repair, without spending a very long time at it. Lots of metal to remove, and the rods will load up fast with swarf. They'd need to be cleaned frequently during the job, to stay aggressive at all. If not, the progress will slow exponentially.

The belly of the blade is usually the hardest-working part of the edge, and it may have been just that much more worn/damaged/dull. I realize you don't have the knife now, but for the next time around, you might look into experimenting with some wet/dry sandpaper on the rods of your Sharpmaker. A coarser grit can make a world of difference, when tackling a truly damaged edge like that. For what you described, I think something around 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper would be a reasonable place to start. If you want to minimize the coarse scratches, following up with 600/800/1000 grits, before the brown rods, would streamline the sequence quite nicely. Wouldn't take long to set a new bevel with 400 grit, and the subsequent finishing steps would be MUCH easier.
 
god damn, 2 hours? i feel your pain though. I have a sharpmaker and that thing cant sharpen shit! i can go from where you are to passing the hanging hair test level 3-4 in like 5 mins with my paper wheels and some stropping on newspaper.
 
easy to blame on the device when you can't understand its limitations. its a maintenance tool, not something you can use for rebeveling, regrinding a blade or whatever. it's just a great way to maintain a blade without too much hassle, without mess, noise, water, slurry, dust .... the angle setting allows you to touch up your blade even when you're tired, nervous without too much trouble.

don't get me wrong, i have no sharpmaker, i don't plan on buying one and everybody with common sense can understan that it has some limitations but saying "that thing cant sharpen shit!" .... is well ... i think i won't comment any further.

this is a good exemple of what you can do when you understand the limits of the system. the knife was certainly duller than i usually let my edc go ... it was just compatible with the system angle wise.

[video=youtube;-MHe_8wTHmg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MHe_8wTHmg[/video]

courtesy of crimson tide shooter.
 
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