Beginner Setup

7

7MWoQ16

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Jul 7, 2015
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Hello everyone, this post is just about some questions I have for getting started in knife making. I already realize all kinds of general advise like start simple and all that, but there are some specifics I have to figure out.

I have heard that Coote belt grinders are the way to go for inexpensive and effective beginner knife making. Do any of you have any experience with these? I'm trying to figure out what accessories and elements of the grinding setup are important or worth it to get with a grinder. Also, should I start with really high quality belts? All that grinding stuff is the most Important info I am looking for. I have a Lansky sharpening system, but how should I get the initial edge grinds on there in the first place? I plan on starting with simple o1 neck knives with only the tang as the handle. Any random advise you have about starting out, including anything not asked of here, will be a lot of help for me.
 
Someone will likely be along to post the copypasta new guy post, but to boil that down, my advise is:

I don't care for that Coote style of grinder and prefer the 3/4 wheel type, having the contact wheel as the drive wheel limits what you can do as far as changing accessories etc.

Start with high quality belts the difference in belt life isn't even comparable. I like ceramic and zirconium for roughing and trizact for finishing. The only thing I use aluminum oxide for is soft materials like wood/leather.

The couple things I couldn't live without that are kind of knife making specific rather than general metalworking are: a scribing tool to mark the centerline of your edge and a file guide/grind guide that clamps over the blade to keep your plunge line consistent or to use squaring up tang shoulders etc.
 
Im still really wet behind ears with knife making but ive seen ALOT of these guys say the best way to figure out this stuff is to jump in. Practice, try new techniques with different tools,etc. Im kinda just learning this for myself
 
Welcome.

Fill out your profile so people can see where you live, a bit about your background and interests etc. This helps others to help you.

Then explore the stickies at the top of this section. Just about everything you need to know is there including but not limited to techniques, equipment, building forges and heat treatment ovens, recommended reading and more.

It is true that a 3 or 4 wheel grinder design will work better for you. With a two wheel design you will be limited with what you can do with it but you will also have tracking problems. This means that even if the belt runs straight and true, there aren't enough contact points for the belt to resist drifting under side loads like when you are pushing a piece of metal against the side of the belt. This is a problem with models like the Grizzly. Do some research on good grinders then save up for the model you choose. It will be more expensive in the long run to progress up through a number of inadequate designs before having to purchase a good grinder in the end anyway. Some well regarded grinders include the Wuertz TW-90, the Bader, the KMG, Grinder In a Box, Pheer, Wilmont. There are others.

New guy advice. Ok, here is where we get into some personal preference things but it is the way I see it. Others will have a different opinion.

I see a lot of new guys get a few knives done then they start thinking about how to start selling knives. Do not get into that mindset. This is a craft that takes time to learn. It is a craft that requires and rewards patience and hard work. A good knife is about much more than looking pretty. There is a lot of science and technical precision involved. To make a pretty knife (or an ugly knife) a good cutting tool you will need to learn about proper heat treatment and blade geometry. If you are not a member of Instagram you might want to sign up and follow Jerry Fisk. He will be posting a series soon on proper edge geometry and how to make a knife cut well. Be a student of knives in general. Don't think of it as a business venture. Do it because you love knives. You will spend a lot more making knives than you will make selling them.

A lot of new guys make very narrow bevels on their knives. Bring your bevels at least 3/4 of the way up the side of your blade. Different designs based on different uses will suggest how far up to bring the bevel. But a 1/2" high bevel won't cut it, pun intended.

New guy handles. Here are three things I see a lot of new guys do with handles. One, they make what I call tick shaped handles. These are just fat round looking handles that look like a tick's ass. Take some time to look at beautiful, well designed knives. Design a handle for your knife that has a bit of style and purpose. Two, new guys (and some experienced guys) sometimes make handles that are very narrow, like steak knives. If you are making a paring knife, ok. If you are making a hard use knife, make a handle that fills the hand. Three, new guys tend to need to work past the blocky handle stage. They make handles that are roughly rectangular in cross section with rounded corners. Again, take a look at good handle designs. Pay attention to shapes and contours. If you can round the corners, you can round the whole thing. And along with the blocky cross section the handles tend to be too fat at the forward edge. Taper the handle at the front so there isn't a giant step down to the ricasso.

And lastly but not leastly (I know that isn't a word :D) Do not be a slave to the bar of steel. Do not let it dictate the shape of your knife. Some new guys will take the bar, draw a curve at the front for the blade, draw out the shape of a handle on the straight bar and start cutting it out. This will give you a very stiff looking knife. Design some curves into your knife. Makers with some experience under their belt will often talk of "flow". This happens when the elements of your design draw your eye from tip to tail in a seamless manner without any particular area catching your attention in a negative way. Things that help "flow" are having a gentle curve that runs across the top of your blade, through the guard and down the back of the handle in a continuous line. Having the top and bottom of the ricasso line up with the top and bottom of the forward edge of your handle helps a lot. Having a fairly slender guard can help the eye pass effortlessly across the knife without interruption as well. Depending on the intended use of the knife, the tip and belly of the blade can be important as well. A lot of new guys will make the tip very wide, many times with a short belly and long straight section to the heel. If you are making a machete, ok. If you are making a more versatile cutting instrument try to make your tip more shallow with a longer sweeping belly. Curves are more appealing. You wouldn't be too interested in a woman who looked like she was built from Legos, right?

Ok, that wasn't the last. This is the last........for now. Do not make several knives at a time. You will just be making the same mistakes multiple times. Make one knife at a time and learn your lessons. Take those lessons and apply them to your next knife. Every knife will teach you something even after you have made lots of them. Post your progress here. Ask questions. Be humble and accept advice graciously. There are a lot of very experienced and talented people here that are trying to help you elevate your game.
 
i4Marc, that was a very good response, and I hope 7MW takes a lot from your post. I will add to comments on the grinder--one is to check out the AMK grinder, http://amktactical.com/epages/3c926...26a50-9aba-43a5-9571-098ee03f1288/Products/33 I personally have one and it does a fantastic job, and is priced below the market--2 other grinders to consider are the one from Northridge Tools and The Esteem, from a fellow from BF's that builds a great grinder also.

Good luck in your journey!!
 
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