Belt grinder

Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Messages
317
So some money will be flowing, and it might be time to pick up an actual decent 2*72 belt grinder.

I know I want to have platen and contact wheel and slack belt access, ability to do surface grinding to thickness would be a big plus.

Shop is wired both 120/240.

What brand/model offers best bang for the buck?
 
Yeah I'd go Reeder as well. Personally I would probably just do the basic frame and piece together the rest of it as it allows you to customize everything a bit more at less price.

If money weren't an issue though I'd get Hardcore's grinder that thing just like amazing haha
 
I just recently got a Pheer grinder.
I bought the basic frame, as I already had the motor and vfd.
Wonderful quality. Tracks like a dream. No issues.
I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

I couldn't of asked for anything more..... It's Amazing!!!
I'm in the process of doing/making add on's (Large contact wheel. guides, accessory tables, etc) ( I Could of bought those from the Pheer website, but I'm cheap)

I looked at Coote, Reeder, and others....... I'm glad I went this way. Better value (for me)
 
Talked to Greg Reeder a few years ago and he put together a package that does everything I need. Greg and Don have been great to work with over the last few years when I needed modified accessories.
Reeder 1.JPG
 
I've heard amazing things about Northridge and Reeder, but haven't used them myself. I absolutely love my Brodbeck grinder and see no reason to ever need or want a different one! 10/10 would recommend to anyone.
 
good lord! That^ is a beautiful machine!
 
Funny thing as I Google for things like "best belt grinder for knife making" the Chinese happy-somethingoranother keeps coming up. It claims to be a 2x82 whatever that is. There was also some interesting chatter about the electronics and so forth. But it seems like it comes with the small wheels, and contact wheel and platen, pretty much whatever one might imagine wanting to get started. And it is like 1200 and change.

I looked on all American and if I get their prewelded chassis, platen, contact wheel and vertical thingie I am at that cost already and that is without wheels or small wheels ...

Money is definitely an object. But I don't trust my welding ability for precision accuracy.

Maybe I need to look again at building one, but again I just don't really know what I actually "need".

I am assuming the Grizzley style thing is a waste. I am just not sure where to start.


I did finally find the original D.Comeau blog posts for the main design that seems to be somewhat of the standard. But he also had an alternative design he called the DCBG - dirt cheap belt grinder. The estimate was somewhere in the 200 range.

I am not sure this is the answer, but I wonder if there can be something in-between. I'd like to see something that could come together reasonably dirt cheap, however, be built up to full scale over time. This would require honoring certain sizes or techniques. Not sure yet what they are, but it is a thought.
 
Money well spent is something that often pays for itself.

Start with a Reeder basic chassis
. Be sure to add the wheel set. Reeder's wheels are perfectly tuned and balanced. It is called the basic chassis, but it is a complete vertical/horizontal grinder package with flat platen, contact wheel arm, work rest, etc. That, plus a motor will give you a very good grinder. Add a contact wheel and you have a fully capable pro-shop tool. Their wheels are turned to .002" tolerance.
Contact wheels:

For a motor and VFD, I use this chap. You can get combos from 3/4HP to 2HP.

Reeder's mobile base is heavy duty and rock solid. Being able to roll the grinder to where you want it ... or outside ... is a valuable shop asset.

Then you can add any special tooling and accessory arms you want ... or do what many folks do and build your own tooling with 1.5" square aluminum bars and plates as you need.

Or, if you wish, get the full package with everything in a box.

Their surface grinder is amazing. It isn't as cheap as it was, but it is worth every penny. Again, get their contact wheel with it. I recommend using a double arm and clamp with the surface grinder (adds less than $100)
 
Money well spent is something that often pays for itself.

Start with a Reeder basic chassis
. Be sure to add the wheel set. Reeder's wheels are perfectly tuned and balanced. It is called the basic chassis, but it is a complete vertical/horizontal grinder package with flat platen, contact wheel arm, work rest, etc. That, plus a motor will give you a very good grinder. Add a contact wheel and you have a fully capable pro-shop tool. Their wheels are turned to .002" tolerance.
Contact wheels:

For a motor and VFD, I use this chap. You can get combos from 3/4HP to 2HP.

Reeder's mobile base is heavy duty and rock solid. Being able to roll the grinder to where you want it ... or outside ... is a valuable shop asset.

Then you can add any special tooling and accessory arms you want ... or do what many folks do and build your own tooling with 1.5" square aluminum bars and plates as you need.

Or, if you wish, get the full package with everything in a box.

Their surface grinder is amazing. It isn't as cheap as it was, but it is worth every penny. Again, get their contact wheel with it. I recommend using a double arm and clamp with the surface grinder (adds less than $100)
Thanks, that is well thought out and easy to follow. Perhaps I am being too ambitious. Maybe what I really need is to find out where the secondary market it. Although, I assume no one updates their systems. They just add to them. I assume someone has to die to get a shot at any kind of deal on a used system.
 
I got a no-name starter grinder thinking I'd upgrade fairly soon. Well many years went by and only the fact that I moved prompted me to finally upgrade. I don't think my Northridge is any better, but my skills seem to have suddenly improved considerably! 🤣
Just kidding, the Northridge is amazing, wish I upgraded earlier.
 
Used grinders for sale only happen for a couple reasons:
1) Some knifemaker dies or gets too old/ill/weak/paralyzed to work anymore.
2) Someone moves and can't take their equipment with them.
3) Someone outgrew the grinder and got a bigger more powerful unit.
4) It was junk to start with.

#1 is very infrequent. Even when too weak to work, most knifemakers will sit in the shop and dream (or drink beer/scotch). Some will be rolled out in their wheelchair just to sit in the shop. I bet more than one knifemaker or woodworker has died happily sitting out in a shop they have not turned a single machine on for years. The shop is our happy place for most of us.
If they truly can't use or visit their shop and equipment anymore, they probably know six people who will come tomorrow and take the tools off their hands, so they rarely need to advertise stuff for sale.
Additionally, used grinders of any quality sell for surprisingly high prices, and a new one with a warranty is often a better deal. I regularly see a very used KMG selling for more than a new Reeder.
#2 happens only every once in a while, too. Most folks will find some way to move their shop or will refuse to move. Shops have been loaded into Conus
#3 just doesn't happen. You have about the same chance of finding buried treasure in your back yard. People keep the old grinder and add a second, third, and even fourth grinder.
#4 is usually easy to spot, as the price is low, and the unit looks flimsy. There may be an occasional great deal in Craig's List or similar places on a good grinder, but don't hold your breath.

Buying an "Entry Level" grinder like the Kalamazoo or similar units soon becomes an obvious mistake. A grinder is like any good tool. Buying one because it is cheaper almost always translates to one that is of less quality and ability.
 
Used grinders for sale only happen for a couple reasons:
1) Some knifemaker dies or gets too old/ill/weak/paralyzed to work anymore.
2) Someone moves and can't take their equipment with them.
3) Someone outgrew the grinder and got a bigger more powerful unit.
4) It was junk to start with.

#1 is very infrequent. Even when too weak to work, most knifemakers will sit in the shop and dream (or drink beer/scotch). Some will be rolled out in their wheelchair just to sit in the shop. I bet more than one knifemaker or woodworker has died happily sitting out in a shop they have not turned a single machine on for years. The shop is our happy place for most of us.
If they truly can't use or visit their shop and equipment anymore, they probably know six people who will come tomorrow and take the tools off their hands, so they rarely need to advertise stuff for sale.
Additionally, used grinders of any quality sell for surprisingly high prices, and a new one with a warranty is often a better deal. I regularly see a very used KMG selling for more than a new Reeder.
#2 happens only every once in a while, too. Most folks will find some way to move their shop or will refuse to move. Shops have been loaded into Conus
#3 just doesn't happen. You have about the same chance of finding buried treasure in your back yard. People keep the old grinder and add a second, third, and even fourth grinder.
#4 is usually easy to spot, as the price is low, and the unit looks flimsy. There may be an occasional great deal in Craig's List or similar places on a good grinder, but don't hold your breath.

Buying an "Entry Level" grinder like the Kalamazoo or similar units soon becomes an obvious mistake. A grinder is like any good tool. Buying one because it is cheaper almost always translates to one that is of less quality and ability.
This all sounds completely accurate and understandable. One can hope...

Meanwhile, I have a couple choices:

1) I can work on the deficiencies of my current equipment.
2) I can add "2nd choice" items such as the Grizzly types, 2x42's and so on
3) I can find something of quality that I can afford to step into, which still allows me to simply "add on" as finances allow, rather than dump and replace at each new need.
4) Come up with some other make-shift interim solutions along the way

My choice would be #2 and I am trying to figure out how to make that happen.
 
I have two Reeders in my shop and am happy with them. However the flip feature design must be accommodated with your bench setup. If you are building a new bench or stand it is not a big deal but you cant just toss it on your bench and have both vertical and horizontal options.
 
Coote?

I had one for some time and while I now have a Reeder with practically every do-hicky on offer, the Coote did a lot of things more than adequately. It was certainly one solid and well built machine. There are a few threads on here and I don't think I have seen a bad word about them, other than they are not as versatile as a grinder that uses tool arms.

I actually did sell my Coote to a chap who was starting out and didn't want to take the full expense plunge on a three wheel grinder.
 
I agree with Stacy totally (well, almost) on the Reeder package. I'd go with pretty much what he laid out, except for the motor/VFD. Since money is always a concern for me I'd get an Ironhorse motor and Chinese VFD. While the KBAC is dustproof, with filters over the air inlets dust isn't so much of a problem. I do MUCH prefer the display of the Chinese VFDs vs the "blind" KBAC. As Stacy said, keep the Reeder (or any other good grinder) a couple of years and get your money back - unless prices really start dropping on new equip.
 
Money is definitely an object. But I don't trust my welding ability for precision accuracy.

Maybe I need to look again at building one, but again I just don't really know what I actually "need".
You don t need to weld to make belt grinder .All you need is drill pres and small angle grinder . Except for the wheels and el.motor , you can do everything else very easily yourself .I make this one for friend with that two tools . And you don't need any plans or blueprints. Buy a set of wheels, one 2x72 belt and start from there ........ place all the wheels on one larger piece of cardboard and belt over them. You don't need anything to be precise, so you will get the position where the motor should be where the other wheels ....just be careful on length and travel of tool arm so you can use different set up, like small wheels , contact wheels with diff. Dia. ...etc
 
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