Belt sander advice please

G

Garrett hhk

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Nov 12, 2012
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I've been using a harbor freight 1" 30" sander but I'm looking to get something a little better under 300 bucks. I was looking at the grizzly 2" x 27" im just not sure

Thanks
 
If you're talking about the G1015 knife maker's grinder, it's going to run you about $450 to $500 brand new. Definitely a step up from a 1x30 from HF, but if I were spending that much, I'd just build a NWGS, as you'll end up with a little more versatile/expandable of a machine.
 
Personally, I think you'd be happier with a 2" wide belt more than a 1". And for versatility its pretty tough to beat a 72" belt, as you'll find any grit or belt type you could ever want in a 2x72 size.

That being said, you'll probably appreciate any kind of upgrage over the HF 1x30, so I guess it's really up to you.

I built a NWGS with an 8" contact wheel for about 550 bucks or so about 3 years ago (a large chunk of that was the contact wheel). If I were just building one with a flat platen, I could have probably gotten away with only spending about $300 - $350. Depending on how much you shop around for used motors, parts and scrap tubing, you could theoretically build one even cheaper and still have room for upgrades as money became available.

FWIW, one of the biggest complaints I hear from guys buying the grizzly, craftsmans, kalamazoos, etc... is typically the speed. It's kind of a one hit wonder in that regard, so you have to get used to it being "too fast". Still nicer than the HF, but it is what it is.
 
Thank you I really appreciate it
Anything else I need to know when it comes to building one cheap? Or just buy the plans and that will tell me everything I need?
 
I'm not an expert, but I will mention that you should expect to spend at least another 100-200 on top of the grinder for belts. The high-quality ones aren't cheap and so 100 disappears real fast. With this in mind, I would give the craftsman 2x42 a hard look. There are even tutorials to turn it into a 2x72.
 
Hey Geek isnt that with one of the old craftsman, I dont think it works on the new ones (could be wrong). That being said if you can find one of the old craftsman guys that has the 3.4 HP motor you will be better off then the new ones. Plus it will be alot cheaper as well.

I built a NWG and it works great. The belts can be pricey, your looking at 5bucks and up but then again getting the 2x48 or whatever the craftsman is aint cheap either. You may save a dollar or so a belt but figure your paying for less belt as well. Just something to take into consideration.

Building your own grinder can save you alot of money if your resourceful and have someplace to do it. If you have someone who can weld or yourself can weld it opens up alot of options for making your own.

IMHO save your money and skip one of the stepping stones, it will be worth it in the end.
 
If you fill out your profile so that we know where you are, we might be able to help you source parts a little more easily.

I got MOST of my tubing from a local scrap yard, and actually had a fair amount left over for some other projects. If you are able to get closer to the exact amount that you need, you'll save some money there.
The plans do offer a lot of advice on building and sourcing IIRC.
My motor I got used on Craigslist for about $80. Depending on where you live, this might be the harder piece to get cheap, but it's not impossible. Instead of buying more expensive knobs, I was able to either fabricate my own or use parts that I scavenged from other tools. Certain other parts like wheels I could have saved some on too, but I went the expensive route and get premium wheels. There have since been a few lower cost options made available from when I built mine.
If you have a welder, you can also tack weld certain peices and save a little on nuts and bolts as well.

It may take a little work and some patience, but it really isn't impossible to build a rather substantial 2x72 for $250-$300.

Take a look at this page:

http://www.mickleyknives.com/html/no_weld_grinder.html

It will give you a basic parts/cost break down, and you will be able to more closely calculate what you need to spend. He's pretty frugal with some of the parts prices, but you can actually find a portion of it even cheaper than he has it listed if you look hard and carefully.
 
A little background on your shop experience, level of tooling at present, etc. would help- as mentioned above, if you can scrounge, have a motor on hand maybe, can weld, have a metal lathe (the best scenario) you can build a nice grinder darn cheap. You may want to take a look at the GIB kit offered by polar bear forge, or contact Pheer grinders to see what a single speed or just a grinder frame would cost you. If comparably priced to the Grizz, it's much more versatile and can be added to as funds permit.
 
I've only been making knives for 8 months but extremely hooked on it , I'm 22 with very little tools, my father is a great wood worker and just all around craftsmen with a good amount of tools no lathe but I can weld
 
What does the grinder in a box come with? Seems like it would be a good idea to buy that and slowly build it up I just don't know everything it comes with
 
I'd say the GIB is a little bit nicer overall than the NWGS. Not saying that it necessarily functions better or differently... but ultimately, it really comes down to how well they are put together. Do a poor job, you'll have a poor grinder. Do a nice job: nice grinder.

One thing to consider is that the GIB as shown is set up for direct drive. The NWGS is set up for belt drive, and as such can be built with a 3 or 4 step pulley system to give you additional speeeds without having to purchase a VFD. Now, I believe I have seen where somebody set up a GIB for belt drive, but I don't recall where. Probably wouldn't be that difficult with a little planning.

The GIB will probably gonna run you a few extra bills to build as well since you have to have it machined out of plate, or buy the parts pre-fabbed. Tubing and a little bit of flat stock is cheap. (NWGS)

Still, its a heck of a grinder, and I've thought about building one myself once or twice.
 
You can set up a GIB with belt drive quite easily. Just use a pillow block arbor, mount it to risers on the grinder baseplate, and poke it through the center of the motor opening in the GIB frame. That said, I'll repeat the point that a good 3 pulley setup will cost you nearly as much as one of the entry level NEMA-1 VFDs, such as the TECO FM50 203. The direct drive design is nice and simple for single speed, then when you want to upgrade to variable it's easy to swap the motor out. Oh, and less vibration with a direct drive.

The GIB comes as a kit, all cut out and shipped to you. I think, Knife, that you may be thinking of the EERF grinder which is more or less the GIB plans as a CAD file for free.

With the GIB, as with the NWGS, you'll have to buy or build your own contact and idler wheels. I just think the GIB design is more elegant, and more sturdy as well. Some really nice machines have been built with that kit.

Either of these grinders would be light years better than a Grizz, a 2x48, or any of the two wheel machines out there. Tooling arm style rear wheel drive grinders are where it's at now.
 
I'm leaning a lot more toward the gib but I wanted to know what's the pros and cons when it comes to having the 8" contact wheel vs. the multi platen style?
 
To grossly oversimplify with 8" wheel you can make hollow grinds, with the multiplaten you can do flat and smaller radii hollow grinds.
 
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