Belt Sander VS Hand DMT Stones

Belt sander sharpening is like anything else- you wouldn't drag your blade edge perpendicular across your stones would you? Well if you use a little common sense in belt sander sharpening you don't need to mess up your blade either. It is quicker than hand sharpening, and it produces a very nice edge. Because of the geometry of edges the convex edge produced by the belt sander will not be as sharp as the flat grind you produce on a stone, but when sharpenend correctly I don't think the average person would ever know the difference. There is certainly a learning curve on a sander and the first few knives may be damaged. It definitely has the potential to do that. But I would say that once "mastered", a belt sander is every bit as valid a sharpening tool as all those spendy stones.

I'm a professional sharpener, I sharpen a few thousand knives a year both by hand and with a machine. Some even say I'm pretty good at it but that's just the word on the street. Thanks for the advice though.
 
Although the thread is old and the OP is probably not following... Jason, what do you use to reprofile lots of knives today? Also, what is cost-efficient and time-efficient for you professionally?
 
1x42 with 120 grit Norton blaze for heavy work.

Atoma 140 for normal bevel setting.

Shapton Glass 220 or 500 if just minor work is needed.
 
Thanks for the info. Jason. Would you suggest, for average members here, a WSKO w/120 belts would probably be best for heavy work? That's what I have been using. I don't have an Atoma of any kind.
 
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