Belts

Walt2

Walt2

Joined
Mar 13, 2001
Messages
1,157
I have another question. I saw a thread sometime back about everyones favorite grinding belts. There were quite a few belts mentioned. I would like to know how the Zirconia and Norzon belts compare as far as how long they last. Thanks.
 
Hi Walt2, I use the zirconia belts in a 60 grit and alum/oxide in 120, 220,and 400 then start hand sanding. I have found that the zirconia's last a good bit longer in the corser grits. I use the Klingspor 60 grit zirconia from pop's.

Don Hanson lll
 
Thanks Don, I have been using one of those cheap 2"x48" grinders and the belt choices can be a little limited on them. Being retired and doing this as a hobby, I couldn't justify the KMG at my age, however I am looking forward to be able to use a 72" setup.
 
i use the 3M 967 cubitron belts for hogging it out with 60 grit. they're awesome they're very agressive belts and when they're worn down they can still do a lot of good hogging with just a little more pressure. if you look through pops catalog or ask him he has a few of the 3M belts. some are designed for slower and some are designed for faster speeds.
for the rest of my belts i use the klingspor LS309 J-Flex belts. i use this for 220 grit and 400 grit.
though i think i'm going to start using a 120 grit. that'll mean less wear and use of my 220 grit belts.
the nice J-Flex backing allows you to track the belt over the side of the contact wheel and allow for a nice smooth transition in your plunge grinds.
good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
I use the 967s in 36 and 60 grit, some other ceramic for 220 that TruGrit stocks, and Norax or, more recently Trizact, in the finer grits. I'm beginning to think the Trizact has more life. Check out Trizact CF some time too; they're great for shaping outside contours, not so great for flat grinding because the surface tends to glaze over too much in that application. At least for me; maybe I haven't figured them out yet.
 
3M 967 in 80 grit for hogging, then the Trizac "Gators" up to 400 grit then Norax for the rest. Oh and to answer your question The Zirconia lasts longer the the AO but not as long as the Ceramic. And without exception the better belts outlast the cheaper belts many times.

Jerry
 
I use the ceramics and I just can't bear the thought of tossing one. Even when they get worn, they still cut great! Then again, how would I know? I ain't had time to make a new knife in a 'coon's age. :D
 
I am the King of Belt purchasers. You name it I buy it. Why? because for some screw-ball reason I keep thinking a better belt will solve my all grinding problems! I'll find one that lasts forever. etc.

So, what do I know after 2 years of buying every belt known to man?

1. You'll need lots of places to hang them (I have a problem throwing belts out, as well. I keep thinking I can get one more pass. As a result my shop is covered in belts).

2. Putting on a fresh belt makes you think you've found the ultimate belt. In reality, it's just a fresh belt and a fresh belt of any type is more fun to use than a dull belt of any type.

3. Trizact and Norax belts will cut until they reach the backing. But never cut very well after the first few passes. However, they make the perfect belts for knife sharpening.

4. SC belts cut very fast, but wear out very fast

5. 3m Microfinish belts cut faster than anything else

6. Gator belts are the smoothest and longest lasting belts you can get. And can be re-sharpened with a file card.

7. You can remove 80 grit scratches with a few dozen 600 grit belts, but you wouldn't want to try that, twice.

8. Only go above 220 grit until you are absolutely sure the coarser scratches are completely gone and everything is perfectly flat. Then the finer belts only need a couple of passes.

9. Throw out the danged belt when it's done!

10. I still don't know what I like best.

Steve
 
Thanks for all the replies. I don't know when the Coote will come in. I still have to go get a motor also. I have been trying to decide if I want to mount this set up on a piece of metal plate or on plywood.
 
i know what they are but more importantly where can you buy them? i only buy belts from pops knife supplies so i don't know where to get them
 
CF An abrasive belt used for metal working: mill line removal, intermediate scratch refinement, consistent dimensioning, and consistent finishing applications. A macro-replicated abrasive product on a flexible X-Weight backing using premium aluminum oxide mineral and grinding aid, for dry use only. Great for satin finish. Nicknamed the GATOR.

http://www.trugrit.com/default.htm

Good prices and nice people to do business with

Dave
 
Walt,
Take this to heart sir---Mount that Coote on a ROCK SOLID surface. Why you ask...Having run one for the past 6+yrs comes from experience. There is enough sway in the design alone you don't need to fight a wobbly base as well.
Trust me on this and feel free to call me for any advice you need on the Coote.
 
Dave,

Those gators are smooth as glass. Maybe just because 3m is being real careful for the first few million. But they are nice. They also have a little cush to 'em. On the other extreme microfinish belts have absolutely no cush. (Best if used with graphite belt on the platen.)

The gator belts don't cut real fast. tho. Not bad when new, but no where near what you get with a norton hogger. One other note on 'em is they are thick. So if you're hollow grinding you have to stick with 'em until the end. They are thick enough that you get the effect of a different wheel diameter when you switch to a thiner belt.

You can hit it with a piece of sheet metal, then a file card you'll get about 2 passes where they cut real nice.

I use mine until I get frustrated, then put on a fresh AO or microfinish belt and get the job over with. So, it's a good thing they last forever, 'cause they're gonna be on your grinder for ever.

Like I said, I don't know what I like best.

Steve
 
Belts for me have been a very expensive and seemingly long curve. I have completely sworn off zirconia. Don't even want them given to me. I've bought 3M ceramic and other ceramic. Never tryed Norton belts yet. I have settle, I think, on Klinspor 3XX series aluminum oxide. It seems I get the life out of them as I do the 3M ceramics I have paid out the butt for. A lot of it may be that I haven't learned how to properly care for belts. I am very hard on them and blue jeans and socks and shoes and, a few have said, women.

RL
 
Thanks Steve, I suspected Gator meant CF, but wasn't sure. I've been using some samples from 3M and like them for certain applications. Because the grit fractures off, if you're not careful you can end up with an uneven surface on the belt. That then transfers to grinding larger surfaces. I don't think they work very well on anything but steel; they seem to clog up worse than others. Since I do mostly flat grinding the wheel diameter problem you mentioned hasn't been a big issue. I've been using cutoffs from barstock to refracture the surface too. I like them for some things but like you when I'm doing serious stock removal it's a good old 967 for me.

I've never had much luck with AO belts; I end up using two or three on each knife, which adds up to more than the cost of a single Norax finishing belt. I've also learned that you can, within limits, refresh the surface of Norax with a sharp edge too. This doesn't work as well for Trizact.
 
I use two grits, a 50 grit zirc and a 120 grit aluminum oxide. Nobody mentioned scotch brite wheels. I finish clean up of belt marks with a coarse and fine scotch brite wheels. My knives are finished to a satin finish. I not one for doing mirror finishes on using knives.
Scott
 
ddavelarsen said:
I've also learned that you can, within limits, refresh the surface of Norax with a sharp edge too. This doesn't work as well for Trizact.
Click to expand...

Oh cool Dave, thanks. I never thought to try that!

Steve
 
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