Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter

Ballenxj said:
Do you mind if I ask you why? I think S30V is a very good, dependable steel. Isn't that what you would want in a bushcraft knife? :)
I understand the purist interest also. I have knives from L.T.Wright in 01, and Blind Horse, but that one is Sandvick stainless.
If you want to go real purist, get a handmade knife with an Obsidian blade. ;)
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Basically because for an outdoors knife I prefer something a little easier to sharpen and a little tougher. Having said that, I haven't used this particular knife and have no experience of its heat treatment or edge geometry, both of which are very significant.
 
Ballenxj said:
Do you mind if I ask you why? I think S30V is a very good, dependable steel. Isn't that what you would want in a bushcraft knife? :)
I understand the purist interest also. I have knives from L.T.Wright in 01, and Blind Horse, but that one is Sandvick stainless.
If you want to go real purist, get a handmade knife with an Obsidian blade. ;)
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I don't think the issue some have with s30v in a bushcraft blade is about wanting to be a "purist". I think s30v is just a poor choice for a hard use woods knife because it just isn't as tough as the standard steels used in a woodsblade. There is a reason most bushcraft blades don't use s30v. That doesn't mean it can't work but for many, including myself, it is far from a first choice. Benchmade has made a couple knives with questionable steel choice IMO. This one and the fixed Contego. If either or both of these were in a more appropriate steel choice I would own them.

sabre cat said:
I have had a small amount of problems with mine chipping but it is my fault. You hit a rock and any knife will chip.

This is the only knife I own in S30v steel but it won't be my last.
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Not true. Tougher steels will roll or bend. This makes sharpening the problem area out easier and with less loss of steel. S30v is a fine steel but I find it much more appropriate for a folder where toughness is much less needed.
 
craytab said:
S30v is a fine steel but I find it much more appropriate for a folder where toughness is much less needed.
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I'm not sure there is a problem at all with toughness as these two videos will demonstrate. I think I have posted these here before, but I will bring them forward for convenience of addressing this concern.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ntmZKvsvVA&feature=youtu.be
And
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uukEA3iU6H8&feature=youtu.be
As far as harder to sharpen, that may be true, but it is also harder to dull. That is the tradeoff that should be expected. ;)
 
Benchmade put a great heat treatment on the blades. It quite tough and mush easier to sharpen then my Manix 2.

Heat treatment changes the steel
This inst the s30v found on folders
 
Ballenxj said:
I'm not sure there is a problem at all with toughness as these two videos will demonstrate. I think I have posted these here before, but I will bring them forward for convenience of addressing this concern.
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Well, to each their own I guess, but again, there is a reason most outdoorsy, bushcrafty, hard-woods-use knives are made from high carbon steels like 1095, 3V, A2 and the like. They are just more tough (opposed to hard) and that is a fact. If you want to beat the snot out of an S30v fixed blade, be my guest. Sure wouldn't be my choice though. I'll take a steel more appropriately designed for the task. And like I said, if the 162 was in a more appropriate steel for its designed intent I would have bought one (with the kydex sheath and been fine paying more for it) and I think BM would be selling a lot more of these.
 
craytab said:
Well, to each their own I guess, but again, there is a reason most outdoorsy, bushcrafty, hard-woods-use knives are made from high carbon steels like 1095, 3V, A2 and the like. They are just more tough (opposed to hard) and that is a fact. If you want to beat the snot out of an S30v fixed blade, be my guest. Sure wouldn't be my choice though. I'll take a steel more appropriately designed for the task. And like I said, if the 162 was in a more appropriate steel for its designed intent I would have bought one (with the kydex sheath and been fine paying more for it) and I think BM would be selling a lot more of these.
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It sells because there aren't many stainless high quality outdoor knives.

Haha I do agree 3v would be nice.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Benchmade put a great heat treatment on the blades. It quite tough and mush easier to sharpen then my Manix 2.

Heat treatment changes the steel
This inst the s30v found on folders
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Do you have info on how their HT on this differs from their folders? I can't find anything. All the info I see says it is the same HRC as their folders.

This is a positive review I found from a while ago: http://rockymountainbushcraft.blogspot.com/2013/08/review-benchmade-bushcrafter-knife-has.html

I guess if you need a stainless outdoors knife it could work. At $180 though it is fairly steep. I would still take something from Esee for far less or BRKT at a comparable price. Then you get into Survive where for $200 you can get 3v or 20cv.
 
I've had two of these. The first one rolled and chipped terribly. Initially it worked fine on minor usage, but when I used it to cut the top off of some pumpkins, and that's when the problem started. I sent it in to Benchmade, they told me it was a bad heat treat, apologized, and sent me a whole new knife. Having had issues with other s30v knives, I sold the knife.

Even with a good heat treat, I don't think S30V is tough enough for the intended use of the 162.
 
Hahaha your right its listed as the same however with use its very tough. There is enough empirical evidence out there to prove its toughness.

Those are some sweet brands

You make a good point.

I just like the way the 162 looks.

In the store, it just felt right in the hand.

After purchase, it worked great.

I'm not going to argue its the best knife evermade.

Just another option that doesn't suck.
 
Ballenxj said:
Do you mind if I ask you why? I think S30V is a very good, dependable steel. Isn't that what you would want in a bushcraft knife? :)
I understand the purist interest also. I have knives from L.T.Wright in 01, and Blind Horse, but that one is Sandvick stainless.
If you want to go real purist, get a handmade knife with an Obsidian blade. ;)
Click to expand...

K.O.D. said:
I've had two of these. The first one rolled and chipped terribly. Initially it worked fine on minor usage, but when I used it to cut the top off of some pumpkins, and that's when the problem started. I sent it in to Benchmade, they told me it was a bad heat treat, apologized, and sent me a whole new knife. Having had issues with other s30v knives, I sold the knife.

Even with a good heat treat, I don't think S30V is tough enough for the intended use of the 162.
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That is my thought as well. And I am not going to drop $180 to find out when I know other steels are built for this type of use. Looks like lots of folks have had good results with it though. Just not something I would risk when there are similar/better options at below/comparable/and slightly higher price points. Again though, if someone just has to have the design I completely understand. I certainly can't justify all my knife purchases with the same logic I am using here.
 
I think the blocky handle is the most common complaint, but it's not a problem for me. It also fills my hand better than my Fallkniven F1, so my thinking is I probably will find the benchmade less fatiguing to hold than the F1. My preference is a handle that fills my hand than one that's a bit small (that's my only complaint with my production F1).
 
craytab said:
That is my thought as well. And I am not going to drop $180 to find out when I know other steels are built for this type of use. Looks like lots of folks have had good results with it though. Just not something I would risk when there are similar/better options at below/comparable/and slightly higher price points. Again though, if someone just has to have the design I completely understand. I certainly can't justify all my knife purchases with the same logic I am using here.
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3v and 20v aren't stainless.

They are semi-stainless

I have no experience with these steels

I've had a d2 steel blade. It would rust berfor my eyes unless kepted slathered in oil.

Bark river and Survive! Do have s35vn options.
But the Survive! Options might as well be non existent with the supply and demand going on

I want knives that work in extremely wet environments that are tough, take a keen edge fast and can hold it. That's what a 162 does for $180

During use,

I've struck another knife spine while carving a leather handle for a homemade knife. It rolled to edge. I was quite impressed. It even sharpened out on a 6000k stone without chipping.

( most knives need coarser grits for rolls and usually just chip out then go back in place)

During normal use on wood it held its edge with no deformation even on impact cutting like chopping.
 
craytab said:
That is my thought as well. And I am not going to drop $180 to find out when I know other steels are built for this type of use. Looks like lots of folks have had good results with it though. Just not something I would risk when there are similar/better options at below/comparable/and slightly higher price points. Again though, if someone just has to have the design I completely understand. I certainly can't justify all my knife purchases with the same logic I am using here.
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For my money a Becker or ESEE is a better knife, and a better deal.

However, I won't write of stainless completely. My twelve year old SOG Seal Pup in AUS-8 has withstood a tremendous beating, mostly while camping. Cutting up kindle, punching holes in the clay and soil mix that we have here so that tent stakes will go in. I've used it hiking to clear brush out of my path and to clean the soles of my boots.

With the health issues that have plagued me for the last three years, I haven't gotten out much except for picnicking at the forest preserve down the street. I've got a BK-5 being sharpened by Jerry Fisk which I hope will be here soon, even though with the wedding and moving I doubt I'll have a chance to use it.
 
DeadboxHero said:
3v and 20v aren't stainless.

They are semi-stainless

I have no experience with these steels

I've had a d2 steel blade. It would rust berfor my eyes unless kepted slathered in oil.

Bark river and Survive! Do have s35vn options.
But the Survive! Options might as well be non existent with the supply and demand going on

I want knives that work in extremely wet environments that are tough, take a keen edge fast and can hold it. That's what a 162 does for $180

During use,

I've struck another knife spine while carving a leather handle for a homemade knife. It rolled to edge. I was quite impressed. It even sharpened out on a 6000k stone without chipping.

( most knives need coarser grits for rolls and usually just chip out then go back in place)

During normal use on wood it held its edge with no deformation even on impact cutting like chopping.
Click to expand...

Don't know about 20v but the 20cv I said that Survive uses is a stainless steel, it compares very well to M390. I would consider 3v semi stainless. I don't have huge experience with this stuff yet but the 3 knives I have in it so far have not needed any extra attention. And any steel will rust if not taken care of (except maybe H1). I have had S30v develope surface rust.

As for Survive, they are not hard to come by on the exchange and you can always put in a preorder with them. All things good to those who wait and all that.

Some of these newer steels, 3v in particular alow for thinner blade stock while providing greater toughness and possibly better edge retention (not sure on that one). They can be had from various companies for about what BM is asking for the 162.

But whatever works for your needs. Different strokes you know? Just thought people should hear some other ideas on the matter.
 
How about the new limited run of 400 with black G-10 and red liners? Its the exact same knife but in black G-10. I can't seem to find a picture or any info about this knife but my local shop was taking pre-orders.
 
craytab said:
Don't know about 20v but the 20cv I said that Survive uses is a stainless steel, it compares very well to M390. I would consider 3v semi stainless. I don't have huge experience with this stuff yet but the 3 knives I have in it so far have not needed any extra attention. And any steel will rust if not taken care of (except maybe H1). I have had S30v develope surface rust.

As for Survive, they are not hard to come by on the exchange and you can always put in a preorder with them. All things good to those who wait and all that.

Some of these newer steels, 3v in particular alow for thinner blade stock while providing greater toughness and possibly better edge retention (not sure on that one). They can be had from various companies for about what BM is asking for the 162.

But whatever works for your needs. Different strokes you know? Just thought people should hear some other ideas on the matter.
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Hahaha typo I meant 20cv brother.

Great discussion.

The claims made by those against the steel choice are just speculation.

In reality the steel works for its purpose, a wet climate bush knife.

We can play "rock,paper,scissors" with numbers and specifications of different steels,

but for the user,

S30v performs to expectations for a hard user, top performer.


I can't speak to what I don't have experience with

All the knives mentioned (Esee, Survive,and Bark river) are of great quality.

My point is that the S30v complaint is not an issue.
 
I've had my 162 for almost a year now and I've had a chance to compare it to the Swamp Rat Ratmandu, Bark River's, Survive, and Fallkniven's. The 162 is a decent knife, but I have noticed the edge doesn't hold as well as the others. Personally, I would get a GSO 4.1, which if you get a factory 2nd is now cheaper than the 162. Granted you will have to wait over a month to get it, while they're still available on the site. That being said, I still have and will keep my 162 because it worked fine on a few backpacking trips. I made tent pegs, battoned hard oak, feather sticked, and started several fires using the spine. It worked but like I said the edge didn't hold and I had to sharpen it and strop it after a few hours of hard use.
 
supertac916 said:
I've had my 162 for almost a year now and I've had a chance to compare it to the Swamp Rat Ratmandu, Bark River's, Survive, and Fallkniven's. The 162 is a decent knife, but I have noticed the edge doesn't hold as well as the others. Personally, I would get a GSO 4.1, which if you get a factory 2nd is now cheaper than the 162. Granted you will have to wait over a month to get it, while they're still available on the site. That being said, I still have and will keep my 162 because it worked fine on a few backpacking trips. I made tent pegs, battoned hard oak, feather sticked, and started several fires using the spine. It worked but like I said the edge didn't hold and I had to sharpen it and strop it after a few hours of hard use.
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Nice, those are some great blades. Good to know.
 
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