Review Benchmade 200 Puukko

I am guessing you weren't a very good boy scout. If it was important enough I would find a suitable rock and stone it to a 90 in the field, otherwise you should probably do it before you head into the field. On the other hand it is a squared off spine with a slight radius from stonewashing, it is more than sharp enough for my purposes already. The terrible bushcrafter comment was a jab, which you seem to be taking literally.

You must be a hoot at parties.

But thank you for supporting my position that a bushcraft knife should have a sharp 90º spine. Feel free to use a brick/rock/your abrasive attitude/etc to modify your knives as you see fit. I'll stick to buying knives that arrive already suited to the task, and don't require me to remove material to make them useful.
 
But thank you for supporting my position that a bushcraft knife should have a sharp 90º spine. Feel free to use a brick/rock/your abrasive attitude/etc to modify your knives as you see fit. I'll stick to buying knives that arrive already suited to the task, and don't require me to remove material to make them useful.
I don't think a sharp 90º spine is a universal must have feature on a bushcraft knife. I prefer a small corner radius on knife spines, just something to break the edge.

What task do you need a sharp 90º spine for anyway? Striking a Ferro rod? The Benchmade Puukko has a small radius and is actually fairly squared off. Stoning could be easily accomplished to make it a sharp 90º.

If you can sharpen a knife by yourself then sharpening the spine should be a cake walk. If you want to be dependent on others then that is your choice. I have no qualms making simple modifications when things aren't perfect.

Do you even own a Benchmade Puukko? Or is this you choosing to nitpick something that wasn't your idea of perfect?
 
I don't think a sharp 90º spine is a universal must have feature on a bushcraft knife. I prefer a small corner radius on knife spines, just something to break the edge.

What task do you need a sharp 90º spine for anyway? Striking a Ferro rod? The Benchmade Puukko has a small radius and is actually fairly squared off. Stoning could be easily accomplished to make it a sharp 90º.

If you can sharpen a knife by yourself then sharpening the spine should be a cake walk. If you want to be dependent on others then that is your choice. I have no qualms making simple modifications when things aren't perfect.

Do you even own a Benchmade Puukko? Or is this you choosing to nitpick something that wasn't your idea of perfect?

Benchmade didn’t consult with him for the 2018 releases so he’s been sassy all year.

Personally, this seems to be a great knife I may pickup tomorrow, and the 2018 releases in general have been better than the 2017s were IMO.

Interested to see what’s dropped in 2019.
 
So far I've held off on a puukko (Benchmade or otherwise) although I think I would get a lot of use out of one. I've been eyeing a few Helle knives for the last year (Viking, Arv, and Harding) but still haven't pulled the trigger. I went to the store today and the Helle Arvs were 30% off... I was proud of myself for walking out empty-handed... for tonight anyway.

The Benchmade one looks nice but I'd prefer a wood handle.
 
Its an extra process. so it adds cost. its better to save and DIY imho.


So the new bushcraft knife can't throw spark from a firesteel? Seems like a massive oversight for the intended purpose.

I had to dremel/sand the spine flat on my 162-1501 because of the finish you guys put on it. It was odd to have a knife named "BUSHCRAFTER" that couldn't be used to perform its namesake.



Literally nobody else has a problem with this.

The DBK guys modified the model 200 to make it work for them (different edge, and probably sharpened the spine). I don't mean to come across as brash, but did you guys look into why the Puukko is a useful tool at any point in the creation of the model 200?
You must be a hoot at parties.

But thank you for supporting my position that a bushcraft knife should have a sharp 90º spine. Feel free to use a brick/rock/your abrasive attitude/etc to modify your knives as you see fit. I'll stick to buying knives that arrive already suited to the task, and don't require me to remove material to make them useful.
 
Darkera: The Helle Arv is my all-around favorite wood carving knife. Just make sure you pick one out by hand. I went to buy a backup and it had lateral curvature from the tip to the tang. Surprised that one left the shop!

The BM Puukko is on my short list. Looks like a winner in all regards and I appreciate everyone’s input.
 
I just place an order for this blade. I consider the price for this product reasonable, 3v and a nice leather sheath. The Benchmade warranty is a bonus. I was even able to redeem rewards points that I had with a retailer.

I am curious to see what the thickness behind the edge is. I’ll probably sharpen it at 15-17 dps and then see how this blade performs. I have not seen many reviews or user videos but I’ve had good experiences with other Benchmade fixed blades.
 
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I understand the annoyance of someone who actually owns the knife responding to folks who don't and who are taking theoretical pot shots at the design. However, the responses need to be toned down considerably.
 
Darkera: The Helle Arv is my all-around favorite wood carving knife. Just make sure you pick one out by hand. I went to buy a backup and it had lateral curvature from the tip to the tang. Surprised that one left the shop!

The BM Puukko is on my short list. Looks like a winner in all regards and I appreciate everyone’s input.
Well, I lasted a whole 16 hours after that post :) I went back to the store and couldn't help myself, it was too good of a deal and I'd been thinking about this knife for a long time.

I am very impressed with it and looked it over pretty well (it was the last one available). No complaints except for a slightly asymmetrical grind. What a beautiful knife! The leather-bone-wood handle is great and feels good in hand too, the thin leather adds nice grip.
 
^That'll happen with the Helle's. Other than the stamped laminated blades, they're hand-assembled and ground, blade and handle radius. There's some cool factory vids on YT. The Arv was actually the Odin re-imagined when Helle decided to use just a little less reindeer antler in the handle. Either way, lovely little knives, and the favorite of mine from their lineup.

Back to the BM Puukko, there's just not much not to like! Great price, not a bad sheath as someone expanded on above, and the ergo's look fantastic. It beckons me, as I truly need another knife in my life. ;)
 
I think Benchmade may have hit a homerun with this knife. Or at least a triple.

I can't seem to find one anywhere. So I'm really not sure.

Without venturing into the Cheerio Peeing contest. And with thoughts of defusing it.
"Bushcrafting" and lately "Puukko" have become hot button terms with both consumers and manufacturers.

I tend to adhere to the traditional definition of Puukko. Which pretty much leaves this knife out side the parameters. Personally, I don't care what it's called. It looks to be a very nice knife. Good steel, ergonomic handle and a sheath. I'm on the fence about the sheath. But I'm basing that off just photos. Since I haven't been able to source a knife yet.

As to the whole spine thing.
I see Bushcrafting as a term similar to camping. From what I understand and can research. The term itself actually originated out of the Bush in Australia.

There isn't or at least shouldn't be a hard and fast set of rules. You are just in the "Bush" (Australian for woods) crafting. Sawing, cutting, burning, building, whatever.

There is no one preset way to set a tarp. There is no one right way to build a fire. So it stands to reason there doesn't necessarily need to be one specific way to build a knife. Whether you call it a Bushcraft Knife or a Puukko, or Granny's Spud Peeler.

I have several by defenition, Finnish Puukkos. Some will strike a ferro rod or flint, some will not. Some are Rhombic in profile, some are not.

L.T. Wright makes and sells great knives with super sharp 90 degree spines. Hockey skate sharp. So sharp, I have cut myself several times when placing my thumb on top to do finer work. I even have a slice in an Elk Skin Roper from one. I do not strike steels with my L.T. Wright knives.

I do however utilize the sharp spine to scrape tinder from branches. It works very well for that. It also peels carrots like a demon. Very cool. It is one take on a knife that can be used for Bushcrafting.

Andy Roy of Fiddleback Forge has a different take on sharpened spines. He doesn't care for them for several reasons. Not the least of which is the possibility of an injury in the field. I have been rubbing dirt into wounds to stop bleeding since shortly after I could walk. I don't seem to get infected by much. But it is a real concern to many.

I can say one of the slices I inflicted upon myself with a 90 degree spine was noteworthy.
So that point should be considered.

He also mentions the radiused edges help to reduce stress risers in a knife subjected hard field use. 90 degree edges can amplify shock loads. Much like the touted breaking spot on an otherwise tried and true Ka-bar.

If you think of a shock wave in liquid form. It is much easier for it to flow around the radius of a curve, than strike a 90 degree corner.

I used those three makers as examples.
Because I have a lot of solid real world field time with them.

I also have a batch of field time with my 162. I actually own two 162s. A standard version, and the LE numbered one with the orange liners.

The stone washing on the LE has dulled the edges a bit. I knew this going in. Does this make an otherwise great field knife worthless? Not in my opinion.

Are Andy Roy's Knives lesser field knives because he rounds his spines? I can say with some certainty, they clearly are not. They are a dream to use in the field and in camp.

L.T.'s knives are likewise. As is my well tested and abused Ka-bar.

I truly think we do ourselves a disservice when we start over define and impose lilitations on what we do in the woods and what we do it with. Folks seem to get caught up in the terminology, and not the actual doing.

Mors Kachanski certainly set forth some guidelines. He is surely adept in his northern boreal forest. But if you read his writings. He has changed and evolved often.

Dave Canterbury has his criteria for what makes a good bushcraft knife as well.

So do a plethora of other bushcraft celebrities. Ray Mears, Cody Lundin, Les Stroud, and more. And yet, they are all different. All of them have different takes on the perfect knife.

What I see is two very different realities.

Reality #1. There is no perfect knife.

Reality #2. If someone pays me, and puts my name on their Knife. I will call it the perfect knife.

I would wager, if one was to spend a week or three with a Sämi reindeer herder working in their natural environment. We would learn more than we would from a lifetime of watching television bushcrafters or so called survival experts.

I'm almost positive Mr. Reindeer Herder would not build his fire they way Mors does. And his pot hanger might be different from that of Ray Mears. But is he any less of a Bushcrafter?

When the cameras turn off. He still has animals to herd. He needs to survive the sub-arctic Taiga. The knife he uses probably doesn't have his name on it. His axe may well have been his father's before him. But it keeps him alive.

I'm a bit saddeded to see folks waste so much energy trying to fill other people's cereal bowls with urine. There are much better uses of the time we have here on the planet.

Folks here are smart, creative, and genuinely passionate. Those traits should be applied in more constructive ways. Perhaps even going out and Bushcrafting, camping, woods roaming or whatever you may call it.

The whole sharp spine debate is certainly becoming industry wide. It's a hot button. But then again Kephart, Rushton, Col Whelen, and that Sämi herder all managed to do quite well without them.

Bushcrafting should be a Journey not a Destination. Use what works for you. Watch what works for others. Understand those two paths may run close together at times. Then veer widely apart at others.

*** Disclaimer***
I own and use all of the knives discussed above. All were purchased with my own money. With the exception of the Benchmade Puukko 200. Which I haven't found available yet.

Do I have a favorite?
Depends on the day, the conditions, and the tasks.

We in today's knife world are beyond lucky. There are so many exceptional blades being made today it's crazy.

I think we should begin to view a knife like a day. If there is one small thing that goes wrong in our day, like a stubbed toe, or a spilled cup of coffee. But the rest of the day is great. We shouldn't dwell on the small potholes. But instead look ahead and revel in all that is good.
 
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I spent a whole day geeking with different diamond stones stones and diamond pastes
YrL6HtU.jpg

Nicely done!
 
The whole sharp spine debate is certainly becoming industry wide. It's a hot button. But then again Kephart, Rushton, Col Whelen, and that Sämi herder all managed to do quite well without them.
It may be a new hot button issue, but it is still not an industry standard to have sharp spines. If you want a sharp spine and it doesn't have one then DIY.
I do however utilize the sharp spine to scrape tinder from branches. It works very well for that. It also peels carrots like a demon.
Peeling carrots? I think I am going to try that.
 
I sharpened mine to around 17 or 18 dps with a KME sharpener. I only go to 600 grit because that seems to be fine for my uses.

I then gave it the camp kitchen test by making kebabs. That involved cutting beef, tomatoes, onions and bell peppers into medium sized pieces. It worked just fine for everything. It was much better slicing vegetables than the Scandi grind knives I have used, but I haven't used very many of them so YMMV. I had already used it to peel, slice, and dice potatoes and to slice and dice onions and it worked fine for that. It did as well as any of my other camping knives, and better than many of them.

I also cut up a few boxes. These had had card tables in them and were fairly robust. The blade geometry worked well - the knife cut smoothly.

This continues to be one of my favorite fixed blade handles. I find it to provide a very comfortable grip and the shape keeps it from slipping. Contrary to my previous observations, the texturing does help when the handle is wet. That is based on having done fire prep in the rain and on having deliberately smeared vegetable and meat juices on it while doing meal prep.

I plan on spending more time carving and doing fire prep over the next couple of weeks and will post updated impressions when I have spent enough time with the knife to be comfortable with my assessment.

I don't consider myself any kind of knife expert, but I figured I could get some impressions out there until the real experts weigh in.
 
I sharpened mine to around 17 or 18 dps with a KME sharpener. I only go to 600 grit because that seems to be fine for my uses.

I then gave it the camp kitchen test by making kebabs. That involved cutting beef, tomatoes, onions and bell peppers into medium sized pieces. It worked just fine for everything. It was much better slicing vegetables than the Scandi grind knives I have used, but I haven't used very many of them so YMMV. I had already used it to peel, slice, and dice potatoes and to slice and dice onions and it worked fine for that. It did as well as any of my other camping knives, and better than many of them.

I also cut up a few boxes. These had had card tables in them and were fairly robust. The blade geometry worked well - the knife cut smoothly.

This continues to be one of my favorite fixed blade handles. I find it to provide a very comfortable grip and the shape keeps it from slipping. Contrary to my previous observations, the texturing does help when the handle is wet. That is based on having done fire prep in the rain and on having deliberately smeared vegetable and meat juices on it while doing meal prep.

I plan on spending more time carving and doing fire prep over the next couple of weeks and will post updated impressions when I have spent enough time with the knife to be comfortable with my assessment.

I don't consider myself any kind of knife expert, but I figured I could get some impressions out there until the real experts weigh in.

Excellent.
Things like this, is where the rubber meets the road.
 
I carve a fair number of spoons and have used several different knives over the last couple of years. Some arthritis in my carving hand has helped me become more appreciative of comfortable, hand-filling handles. I also appreciate a blade that holds a good edge so that I don't have to strop it as often, and blade geometry that makes it easy to take controlled light cuts and that cuts well both with and across the grain.
Basically I am looking for a handle that is comfortable for 2-3 hour carving sessions married to a blade that requires minimal effort to control and can do everything from taking heavy cuts to making lighter, more precise cuts. For the past year and roughly a dozen knives and half a dozen bowls, my preferred carving knife has been the Mora 120. I am not going to compare the Benchmade to the Mora, but I am mentioning that so that those who are familiar with the Mora will know what I like.

To see how I like the 200 as a carver, I decided to do a spoon out of cherry. The cherry I used was a straight-grained piece from an ornamental cherry tree that a neighbor had cut down. The wood was about halfway to being dry. I had already carved a bowl from the same wood, so I knew how it was to work with. When I say that I carved a spoon, I don't mean the type of "spoon" you tend to see in the camping/bushcrafting threads - a piece of wood that has been hacked to rough shape, then had some sort of divot placed into the top side that will grudgingly hold liquid and which is impossible to get into one's mouth. When I carve a spoon, it is the size of a soup spoon and the finished item looks like that same spoon - finished and easy to use. I normally rough out my spoons with a hatchet, but opted to use the 200 for all of the work on this one so that I could get a good feel for the knife.

So how did the Benchmade perform?
1. Handle - I had zero complaints about the handle. The fit in the hand is pretty much the same whether the blade is facing away from you or is facing toward you. It was comfortable both when carving away from me and when carving toward me, and eventually I didn't even notice it. The handle shape made the knife very controllable. I wear a glove on my carving hand so I don't know if the texturing would eventually become bothersome to those with more sensitive hands.
2. Blade geometry - Did a great job with both heavy cuts and light paring cuts. The softened spine was a big plus because when I started getting into more precise work I like to choke up on the blade and take light paring cuts toward me. That puts at least the index finger on the spine of the blade. If I am working with just the tip of the knife with the blade held in a pinch grip, at least the first two fingers will be on the spine of the knife. A softened or rounded spine is much more comfortable than a 90 degree spine when working like that, so this feature of the 200 is a big plus for me.
3. Blade length - normally I prefer a shorter blade, usually no longer than 2 1/2", for carving, but felt perfectly comfortable with the longer blade on the 200.
4. Edge holding - Normally I strop my carving blade every 20-30 minutes. That isn't always necessary, but I like my carvers to be as sharp as possible. I did not strop the Benchmade. I worked for about two hours and the edge on the 200 still feels exactly the way it did after I sharpened it. Since I didn't use any other knives, I don't know how it compares, but I am very satisfied.
5. Complaints: I didn't have any. It is a very comfortable and capable carver.
 
Regarding the great firesteel controversy: Simple minded fool that I am, I would not expect a knife with a softened spine to do a good job of throwing sparks. I made a couple of halfhearted strikes with the 200. It did not throw sparks as well as a knife with a sharp 90 degree spine. I can't imagine that comes as a surprise to anyone who has ever used a firesteel.

However, there are a couple of simple workarounds that do not involve sharpening the spine. First, there is a perfectly good lanyard hole at rear of the handle. You could put a striker on a lanyard and attach it there. Second, there is a firesteel loop on the sheath. You could get a firesteel with a lanyard hole, add a lanyard with a striker, and loop the lanyard around the bottom of the firesteel when it is in the firesteel loop to reduce the odds of it catching on things if that is a concern. Third, you could buy a firesteel with a striker installed in the cap.

Those are just a couple of simple options for those of us who see some advantages to not having a 90 degree spine.

Or if you are a hardcore 90 degree spine fan, just sharpen it. I have done that before. It only takes a few minutes and is a simple process.
 
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