- Joined
- Apr 7, 2002
- Messages
- 2,167
Try the flats of the white stones at forty - you may well find that they raise a burr straight away, as I have found that Benchmades come with a shallower edge bevel nowadays.
I only ever use the flats of the Sharpmaker stones. For the 710's mild recurve I find that pointing the tip slightly away from the stone and tilting the handle in causes the stone to work on the recurve (kind of like using half flat/half corner)
For reprofiling a back bevel I lean a coarse benchstone against the Sharpmaker stone.
With this 710HS I back bevelled at 30 degrees with the benchstone, then with the brown Sharpmaker stone, before sharpening the edge on the white flats at 40.
I then strop the edge in the palm of my hand with some Dovo strop paste that I bought with my straight razor:



I wash my hands and then use just what is left on the blade to finish:

This leaves a nice sharp edge. Holding a piece of kitchen roll from the top, I can penetrate with the tip and cut to the bottom in one slice:

..and a shot with Goldie to finish!

I only ever use the flats of the Sharpmaker stones. For the 710's mild recurve I find that pointing the tip slightly away from the stone and tilting the handle in causes the stone to work on the recurve (kind of like using half flat/half corner)
For reprofiling a back bevel I lean a coarse benchstone against the Sharpmaker stone.
With this 710HS I back bevelled at 30 degrees with the benchstone, then with the brown Sharpmaker stone, before sharpening the edge on the white flats at 40.
I then strop the edge in the palm of my hand with some Dovo strop paste that I bought with my straight razor:



I wash my hands and then use just what is left on the blade to finish:

This leaves a nice sharp edge. Holding a piece of kitchen roll from the top, I can penetrate with the tip and cut to the bottom in one slice:

..and a shot with Goldie to finish!

Last edited: