Benchmade 806D2 AFCK & Spyderco Sharpmaker

Originally posted by switched
Thom what you say here isn't entirely clear to me. You are saying that if you do not 'go light' with diamond hones, the coating on the rods comes off?

If so, how would you define, 'going light' then?
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The abrasive diamond particles are very hard and it is impossible to break themselves. However they are embedded on the steel surface using much softer material, electrolytic deposed nickel is one of possible methods, epoxy is another. Anyway it is always possible to dig hard diamond abrasive particles out of relatively soft embedding layer destroying expensive sharpening surface irreparably.

On the other hand, the cutting edges of diamond abrasive particles are far sharper than the ones of any other abrasive. So you really do not need to press hard when sharpening, diamonds will do their work on lighter pressure as well.

One reason more – human’s movements are powerful or precise, much rarer both powerful and precise. Doing each stroke take more attention to angle holding accuracy than to pressing power.
 
Since I'm depleted on cash at the moment, and those diamond rods will have to wait, how long would it take to sharpen using the regular rods?

And if I go crazy and sharpen a lot, will my blade start to noticeably shrink?
 
Don't you worry! If you feel some inexplicable need to sharpen down to 30 degrees (like the rest of us ;) ), it can be done without the diamond rods in at least two ways.

1. Take the medium hones, place them in the grooves on the bottom of the Sharpmaker, and reprofile freehand. Fastest, but harder to control.

2. Become a really good friend with the corners of the medium hone in the standard Sharpmaker slots. Also, since doing it this way helped prevent turning the tip into a rounded nub (my magic trick), I recommend using the hones in this manner:

Start with on each side with the blade parallel to the ground, but slightly turn blade so that, when you reach the tip, the knife is perpendicular to the ground. I had damaged the tip of my 806D2 by stabbing it repeatedly into a wooden scratching post and that technique restored it.

Don't worry about sharpening away D2. Reprofiling it with the standard hones will cure you of that fear.
 
If you are unhappy with the factory edge and find that it needs to be thinned somewhat (very probable), you are in for a long night with the standard "course" sharpmaker stones. The diamond triangles would speed things up considerably. But alas, you aren't buying them right away so you might want to hold off on any reprofiling jobs (unless you have the patience of Job). I use my Lansky system for reprofiling, but since you are new to knives I doubt you have one of those outfits.

I would recommend buying a Spyderco knife instead of this BM, at least for now. I understand your interest in the Axis lock, but if you're after a factory edge that is SCREAMING sharp and easy to maintain, I'd recommend a Spydie. Get the BM later, when you have the right equipment to properly reprofile the edge. As a bonus, Spyderco lists a bunch of knives that fall well below the BM806D2 in price. Lots to choose from.
 
Very good thread this. Funny how there can be one with header which leads you to think it might approach something like comprehensive but it isn't and then a less conspicuous one like this, where you pick up some great information.

Thanks Thom, Serg and Harry.
 
I am impressed with the current 4 position carry D2 AFCKs. The edge angle on mine was as close to the 30 degree angles on the Spyderco Sharpmaker- BRAVO! The edge came quite sharp. But I am partial to a finish that has a bit of "bite" rather than a high polished finish. About 15 swipes on the diamond sleeves for each side of the blade edge yielded a real biting edge. In my experience, D2 excells with this type finish. Sort of something like a microsaw cutting performance. For hard tool steels like D2, I recommend the diamond sleeves. They only required light to medium pressure strokes to maintain a sharp edge. Good choices both.

N.
 
Kind of late to hold back on purchasing either the Sharpmaker or the AFCK, since I've already ordered from Newgraham. But the way I figure, since I doubt this will be my last knife, having that sharpening kit should come in handy later.

I'm glad I got all this advice from everyone, it's helped a lot. Now I just need to wait for my very first knife to arrive.
 
Hath,

I envy you because you'll be getting to know your 806D2 for the first time soon and not enying you because these next few days will feel like an eternity for you. Please let us know what you think about the knife and sharpener when you get them.
 
Yes, New Graham was very accommodating, it was a pleasure doing business with them. Hopefully I don't have to wait too long to get the knife since I'm close by. If only I ordered a day earlier, I might have it already.
 
One other method for quick stock removal with a Sharpmaker is to use a coarse bench stone, the kind you can get for ten dollars at your local hardware store. Hold the stone against one of the Sharpmaker's rods, using it as a guide for the correct angle, then pull the blade along the stone with a downward stroke just as you do with the rods. I've used this method a few times and it works very well. The sharpening FAQ here on BF explains the method as well. I like it better than the diamond rods because it's less expensive and I would guess nearly as effective and the stones aren't so fragile. Anyway, good luck with your new knife and sharpener, I hope this suggestion helps.
 
To prop up against the Sharpmaker rods, I've used both a coarse stone and a small 6" bastard file. The file cuts a little more quickly and is easier to handle, so I use it more often.
 
Hath,
Since I'm depleted on cash at the moment, and those diamond rods will have to wait, how long would it take to sharpen using the regular rods?
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This depends on how much steel you should remove and how hard and wear resistant this steel is. If your edge is actually sharpened to noticeably more obtuse angle than Sharpmaker preset and if it is hi-end stainless super-steel blade – you might spend hours of hard work until you would reach very edge (position 1). This is because in this case you would grind back side of sharpening area, the same occurs if you would try to restore proper cutting wedge on badly blunted or slightly damaged edge (position 2). The darkened area is the steel what you should remove to reach very edge.
01.jpg

I suppose when you will do it first time the decision about additional diamond rods will come much easier.
And if I go crazy and sharpen a lot, will my blade start to noticeably shrink?
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Don’t go crazy and apply your sharpening efforts as much as they are really required. Touch up your edges regularly using fine ceramics and you will not need to reprofile them for long time. One of the first rules how to keep your knives sharp is to do not let them go really dull, when the basic shape of the edge is noticeably damaged. If you will go up to this point and reprofile badly damaged edge at each sharpening session this will take you much more effort than touching it up regularly with few strokes on fine stone. Also this could cause you to remove more steel from the edge than it is justified.
 
That makes an incredible amount of sense. So after I play with my new knife for a while, I'll want to reprofile it. After I reprofile it, I use the fine ceramics every now and then without the need to constantly reprofile it... which means my blade won't shrink too noticeably. Thanks a lot for the info, the pictures really helped.
 
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