Benchmade 940 lube points

First of all I would like to say I have made this thread because my last one merged and went all weird and the post were all glitching out. I would like to know the following

1. do I put lube either side of the blade ( washers )


2. Do I put some on the blade bit near the lock bar that curves ( could be the blade tang I’m not to sure)


3. Do I put some on the axis holes



4. How often should I lube my knifes

btw I’m using benchmade blue lube

help would be most appreciated thank you.
 
I put a very small amount on the sides of the washers and blade during cleaning. I do not lube the axis or the blade tang. The 940 is super smooth without any lube and I run as little as possible to avoid creating a lint magnet with too much lube.


TXPO
 
I want to help, really I do, but help me help you. I’m getting a little frustrated, because I feel this a) has been answered voluminously, and b) is pretty straightforward and not as big an issue as you think it is. It seems like you’re not reading, or maybe understanding everyone’s replies, and you’re getting too wrapped around the axle with this.

Am I missing something as to why you’re being so very specific or worried? It’s not a terribly complicated mechanical affair. There are only so many moving parts in a folding knife that make contact with each other where friction ‘might’ be an issue and lube even potentially helpful. At this point, though, if you’re not having issues opening and closing the knife, I’m gonna say don’t even worry about it.

As all of the previous posts have stated, some find it more useful than others, some don’t find it necessary at all. It’s not an absolute requirement unless you’re having some issue with function. If it’s a brand spanking new knife, open and close it a lot to break it in and get all the contact surfaces used to each other.
 
Ok
Texaspoff said:
I put a very small amount on the sides of the washers and blade during cleaning. I do not lube the axis or the blade tang. The 940 is super smooth without any lube and I run as little as possible to avoid creating a lint magnet with too much lube.


TXPO
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thanks for the help. I take it because it’s such a good knife not lubing everything won’t damage it.
 
Centermass said:
I want to help, really I do, but help me help you. I’m getting a little frustrated, because I feel this a) has been answered voluminously, and b) is pretty straightforward and not as big an issue as you think it is. It seems like you’re not reading, or maybe understanding everyone’s replies, and you’re getting too wrapped around the axle with this.

Am I missing something as to why you’re being so very specific or worried? It’s not a terribly complicated mechanical affair. There are only so many moving parts in a folding knife that make contact with each other where friction ‘might’ be an issue and lube even potentially helpful. At this point, though, if you’re not having issues opening and closing the knife, I’m gonna say don’t even worry about it.

As all of the previous posts have stated, some find it more useful than others, some don’t find it necessary at all. It’s not an absolute requirement unless you’re having some issue with function. If it’s a brand spanking new knife, open and close it a lot to break it in and get all the contact surfaces used to each other.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I just wanted to know just the lube points on the 940 nothing else. Oh and it says for me there’s 20 reply’s but I can only see about 3 so that may be why I’m still wondering.
 
Norticalm said:
Ok

thanks for the help. I take it because it’s such a good knife not lubing everything won’t damage it.
Click to expand...

It is a great knife, but it just doesn't require much lube. Most of the parts break in, mate up and smooth out pretty quickly with use. The axis bar and blade tang especially get very smooth without the need for any oil or grease. Most axis lock knives work the same way, with the exception of the Bugout. It uses a Titanium lock bar, and if you oil it up it tends to make the action very gritty.
I know a few guys running 940's with no lube at all and haven't had any issues.

The weakest part of the Axis lock system is the springs. I try to keep them clean as I can and free from debris. IMO if you get a lot of crap in there with the springs, IE oil traps dust, dirt, etc. there could be a slight bit of binding and or scratching up the spring wire. They aren't very thick, and any unusual forces or damage again IMO could cause premature failure. I personally have never had one break, but I know it happens. I would also suggest going on ebay, or etsy, and picking up an extra set of springs. Benchmade will replace them free of charge, but you have to send in your knife. It takes 5 minutes to change them, and I don't want to be without it for 2-4 weeks, on top of worrying about it getting pirated while in the mail system.

All other axis locks, I would just say wipe them down if you have the knife apart for cleaning. If not, just blow it out with some compressed air, or wash it under the sink. Put a few small drops of oil on the washers, which are pretty easy to see and your go to go.

I am by all means not an expert on Benchmade or any knife for that matter, but my maintenance process works just fine for me. YMMV


TXPO
 
Norticalm said:
Sorry, I just wanted to know just the lube points on the 940 nothing else. Oh and it says for me there’s 20 reply’s but I can only see about 3 so that may be why I’m still wondering.
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No worries. That makes sense. Texaspoff summed everything up very well here. Couldn’t agree more.
 
I treat most of my production folders like Texaspoff. I have .5OZ Remoil 15 years old nearly full. Not even a drop on the bearing. That is it. My very expensive custom knives might get different treatment. Ultrasonic, lasers and such. Son, I mean you no insult. I wish I could turn back the clock so far. I ask "what is a tang".

I do have my own newbie question. I have one cheap knife with sentimental value. The tiny screws on the pivot are stripped but they hold. I am not going to tap it. Do you folks think it is unsafe? Thanks
Sorry off topic. This is kind of answered.
 
Texaspoff said:
It is a great knife, but it just doesn't require much lube. Most of the parts break in, mate up and smooth out pretty quickly with use. The axis bar and blade tang especially get very smooth without the need for any oil or grease. Most axis lock knives work the same way, with the exception of the Bugout. It uses a Titanium lock bar, and if you oil it up it tends to make the action very gritty.
Click to expand...
Oh! So that's what happened on my Bugout. :confused: After washing it the other day, I decided to put a few drops of oil on the pivot and was a little messy with the oil dropper. After that it felt gritty and I started seeing a shiny trail on the locking pin, but I couldn't see anything like dirt or metal shavings in the works. I washed it again and used some wd40; after drying out, the action's all smooth again.

I don't understand why titanium would do that, but hopefully I didn't do any damage.
 
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