Benchmade AFCK 806D2

You got a very good deal IMO. I bought most of mine when the market was very hot for them and paid between $275 to $325 for the 806D2 and between $700 to $800 for the Limited Editions. The market is much softer now though but you still got a good deal.

I am a big fan of the AFCK but I must admit that I don't use them as much as I fondle them. The AFCK ergonomics just work for me. It is my favorite Benchmade of all time along with the 615 Mini-Rukus.


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And to my eyes they are gorgeous:


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I am also not a big fan of coated blades so I got this one (5th from the left) that has a Scotch-Brite finish on the blade and it looks great to me. I will take an individual pic of it later.


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This is my favorite. It has smooth custom Carbon Fiber scales by Barry Haugen and it feels superb in the hand. I am tempted to move the Scotch-Brite blade to this one.


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KNIFEGASM!

I've tried to get an AFCK before but wouldn't pay the 135€ price for a very old and used one nor the 240-280$ ones I see once in a while pop up. But now that I have one... It just works.
I've seen better knives, but as it does to you, this one speaks to me.

Your array is mindblowing and the millies complete it nicely. Next for me would be a Para and then a Millie after that I MUST GET A SATIN AFCK!
BTW, if you don't mind me asking, how did you scotch brite the coating? I've been fooling with very fine sandpaper and it does a good job though I can't achieve mirror finish. Any advice?

And I gotta say again, I'm drooling hard over your pictures! Manly functions which are not to be discussed are in order too.
 
BTW, if you don't mind me asking, how did you scotch brite the coating? I've been fooling with very fine sandpaper and it does a good job though I can't achieve mirror finish. Any advice?

The credit for the finish on that belongs to the person that I bought it from. He did it on a Scotch-Brite 7S wheel and it left the logos intact.

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Next for me would be a Para and then a Millie after that

I really like the Millie and PM2. My most carried folders are Sebenza and PM2 CF S90V. I don't have pics of the Millie and PM2 next to the AFCK. If I have time I will take some pics for you but you can see them here in group pics:

URL:

My Collection

Quote:

My Collection
 
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My coworker removed the coating from his 806. He never cleans it and there isn't a hint of rust on it. Looks great too.
 
That looks amazing! You have a great taste as I see in your collection and experience so I trust your advice. I'll tri that on a chineses cheap folder and then depending on the results, on the AFCK.

PM: It'll be a while before I finish observing you collection :D
 
Wao, thank you. The Military is BIG!
How does D2 compare to CPM S30V? Also, is the para or the millie as smooth to deploy? The resilience is the most similar Spyderco I have and is great but I'm sure the Millitary is much nicer.
One thing tha has surprised me is the opening hole. I prefer the machining to that of the Spydercos. Spyderco holes are ace, but far too sharp for how much I play opening and closing them. I just love it.
 
Apologies for the wall of text in response to simple questions, I am not trying to over-complicate it, merely trying to be comprehensive and explain my frame of reference in order to be fair to the products.

The S30V vs D2 question is beyond my ability or experience to answer for many reasons. I am not good at sharpening so when I struggle to sharpen any knife I blame my lack of skill rather than the steel. I have very little use on these AFCKs and have done no direct comparative testing of edge holding etc.

It is hard to say which one is "smoother" because I feel that people interpret "smooth" very differently. Some people interpret smooth as a blade that they can open or flick open and closed easily with little resistance. I define that as "loose", not smooth. Others interpret smooth as a lack of noise and vibration. Others define it as a consistent action under constant pressure, without jumping or slowing (also including in and out of the detent). And of course there are more criteria and different combinations of the above etc.

You can make many knives "smooth" by loosening the pivot enough to minimize jumping or slowing during the opening/closing action, reduce noise and vibration and have a weak detent to avoid jumping on initial opening etc.

I don't like free-swinging blades. I tighten all mine to the point where the blade will not move unless I pressure it to move. So I cannot flick open any of my knives, hence none of them are "loose". Although I really liked it, I sold my S90V Manix 2 because I could not tighten it enough to not swing freely.

So to me, "smooth" is a knife that is tight enough where the blade will not swing freely or move without me moving it while at the same time having very little noise or vibration during the action, move consistently with no jumping or slowing through the entire action, especially under very light pressure and most importantly, not jump too much out of the detent even though the detent has to be strong enough that the knife does not open unless I open it.

So from that perspective, I find most knives with very strong liner locks are not smooth by my definition because there is always stong pressure against the blade from the locking liner that causes noise and vibration. Each of my Militaries are different. The CF S90V one has a very strong locking liner and a very strong detent so it jumps on opening and it is noisy but the action is consistent. The S30V one has a weaker locking liner so it jumps, but not as much as the S90V one. It is less noisy with less vibration but the action is less consistent, looser in the the beginning but tightening gradually. The M4 frame-lock version has the most noise and vibration of the 3 and a very inconsistent action under very light pressure.

The Paramilitary has a weaker detent than the PM2 and I can actually move the blade a little before the detent releases so it does not jump as much on opening as the PM2, has less vibration and less noise in the action. Both the PM and the PM 2 jump a little during the action under very light pressure. One of my 3 PM2's I cannot eliminate free-swinging from the blade when the lock is released but it is less of an issue because with the compression lock design there are no fingers in the way when releasing the lock.

One of the reasons I like the Spyderhole is that you do not lose contact with the hole when the blade jumps out of the detent. I had a Bradley Alias that jumped out too much and every time my thumb lost contact with the thumbstud and came down on the blade near the cutting edge. I sold it.

To me, Axis lock knives generally have less noise and vibration than liner and frame locks because of the mechanism of its lock, Axis lock knives generally have consistent actions but they have that funky jump shortly after overcoming the pressure of the Axis lock that keeps the knife closed. And on closing it is inconsistent when it has to overcome that pressure to lock it closed, and then jumps closed after it does.

The AFCK hole is chamfered and the Spyderhole is not. When I first got into knives I guess I was like you where I used to sit there and open and close them continually and on some other models I did notice some hairline cuts on my fingers but I have not experienced that in a long time but I don't have those knives anymore and I don't open and close them continually anymore.

The only folders that I currently own that I consider smooth are the Sebenza, Umnumzaan and the liner lock, round hole AFCKs. I am sure there are many others too that I have not experienced yet. But that will differ for everybody and many consider all these knives under discussion as very smooth. There is no right or wrong, just different interpretations of smooth.

But I want to emphasize that these are all things that are only evident if you look for them, i.e. opening the blade very slowly, with very light pressure, ears pitched listening for any sign of noise. They are not things that I notice during regular use. All these are among my favorite knives.
 
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I must say I absolutely love my 806D2. I had the pleasure to fondle some of Tim's fine knives shown above (l2lku2).
I'm sure he remembers me saying "Woah! That's an awesome and comfortable folder!" when handling one of his AFCK.
I always liked the look but was not sure of the handle.

Since that moment last year, I've been on the lookout here to find my own 806D2.

Here's some pictures of my own specimen:

806D2afck_02.jpg


806D2afck_03.jpg
 
PY. I am glad you found one. Congrats.

And you may recall how impressed I was with the ergonomics / comfort of the knives that you make and the mods you did on the Browning Crowell/Barker that I got from you!!

I mention that because, except for all the carbon fiber ones with contoured handles, the most comfortable AFCK I had was the M2HSS one that I bought as a user. The edges of the scales were slightly rounded and smooth. I don't know whether the previous owner did that or whether it was factory, but it was a big improvement on the sharper edges. So you may want to try that on yours!

I have wanted to do it also but don't trust myself to not screw it up.

But I might try it anyway because even if I mess up, I have been contemplating for quite a while now to get Barry Haugen to make me some Silver Twill G10 scales and satin finish one of the 806D2's.
 
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Yes Tim; I do recall :) Thanks for the good words!

To the OP: Use your AFCK well; it's an awesome knife!
 
I totally want an AFCK but it HAS to be tip up carry. Ithink the 1st ones were only tip down.
I find D2 difficult to sharpen. I've spent a good amount of time on the Benchmade forum. I'm a 70 nut! and t]over there the consensus seems to be D2 while being a great steel is hard to sharpen takes an alright edge and holds it a long time.

I've heard Benchmade D2 is not as good as other companies. Take that anyway you want. I don't know. You'll always find dudes on both sides of an opinion.

I love my 710's, I just wish I could put an edge on them.
My problem is I have a Lansky crock stick sharpening system.
It's OK for getting my Buck 119 Special shaving sharp but does very little for any other knife I own. I'm guessing it's an angle issue.
The box you put the rods in is set at 20 and 25 degrees. Maybe none of my knives are at that angle.

Cheers, enjoy the AFCK. I can't wait to own one. I'll use the heck out of it!
 
Apologies for the wall of text in response to simple questions, I am not trying to over-complicate it, merely trying to be comprehensive and explain my frame of reference in order to be fair to the products.

The S30V vs D2 question is beyond my ability or experience to answer for many reasons. I am not good at sharpening so when I struggle to sharpen any knife I blame my lack of skill rather than the steel. I have very little use on these AFCKs and have done no direct comparative testing of edge holding etc.

It is hard to say which one is "smoother" because I feel that people interpret "smooth" very differently. Some people interpret smooth as a blade that they can open or flick open and closed easily with little resistance. I define that as "loose", not smooth. Others interpret smooth as a lack of noise and vibration. Others define it as a consistent action under constant pressure, without jumping or slowing (also including in and out of the detent). And of course there are more criteria and different combinations of the above etc.

You can make many knives "smooth" by loosening the pivot enough to minimize jumping or slowing during the opening/closing action, reduce noise and vibration and have a weak detent to avoid jumping on initial opening etc.

I don't like free-swinging blades. I tighten all mine to the point where the blade will not move unless I pressure it to move. So I cannot flick open any of my knives, hence none of them are "loose". Although I really liked it, I sold my S90V Manix 2 because I could not tighten it enough to not swing freely.

So to me, "smooth" is a knife that is tight enough where the blade will not swing freely or move without me moving it while at the same time having very little noise or vibration during the action, move consistently with no jumping or slowing through the entire action, especially under very light pressure and most importantly, not jump too much out of the detent even though the detent has to be strong enough that the knife does not open unless I open it.

So from that perspective, I find most knives with very strong liner locks are not smooth by my definition because there is always stong pressure against the blade from the locking liner that causes noise and vibration. Each of my Militaries are different. The CF S90V one has a very strong locking liner and a very strong detent so it jumps on opening and it is noisy but the action is consistent. The S30V one has a weaker locking liner so it jumps, but not as much as the S90V one. It is less noisy with less vibration but the action is less consistent, looser in the the beginning but tightening gradually. The M4 frame-lock version has the most noise and vibration of the 3 and a very inconsistent action under very light pressure.

The Paramilitary has a weaker detent than the PM2 and I can actually move the blade a little before the detent releases so it does not jump as much on opening as the PM2, has less vibration and less noise in the action. Both the PM and the PM 2 jump a little during the action under very light pressure. One of my 3 PM2's I cannot eliminate free-swinging from the blade when the lock is released but it is less of an issue because with the compression lock design there are no fingers in the way when releasing the lock.

One of the reasons I like the Spyderhole is that you do not lose contact with the hole when the blade jumps out of the detent. I had a Bradley Alias that jumped out too much and every time my thumb lost contact with the thumbstud and came down on the blade near the cutting edge. I sold it.

To me, Axis lock knives generally have less noise and vibration than liner and frame locks because of the mechanism of its lock, Axis lock knives generally have consistent actions but they have that funky jump shortly after overcoming the pressure of the Axis lock that keeps the knife closed. And on closing it is inconsistent when it has to overcome that pressure to lock it closed, and then jumps closed after it does.

The AFCK hole is chamfered and the Spyderhole is not. When I first got into knives I guess I was like you where I used to sit there and open and close them continually and on some other models I did notice some hairline cuts on my fingers but I have not experienced that in a long time but I don't have those knives anymore and I don't open and close them continually anymore.

The only folders that I currently own that I consider smooth are the Sebenza, Umnumzaan and the liner lock, round hole AFCKs. I am sure there are many others too that I have not experienced yet. But that will differ for everybody and many consider all these knives under discussion as very smooth. There is no right or wrong, just different interpretations of smooth.

But I want to emphasize that these are all things that are only evident if you look for them, i.e. opening the blade very slowly, with very light pressure, ears pitched listening for any sign of noise. They are not things that I notice during regular use. All these are among my favorite knives.

Thank you so much. I learned a lot from your post, and i now look at folders another way.
I tried to apply all my senses to listen and feel closely to the way the AFCK operates.
I'm sorry but as I'm spanish I have a limited ability to comunicate in englis, but I'll try my best:

I noticed the action although I just could previously describe it as "smooth" is not constistent. When you flick it, with the slightest force it disengages after an initial "jump" and you can sort of hear thea spring bounce or like a muffled click. I now realize it's maybe a bit loose because I shaked it very hard and it oppened. Might adjust it as it is tip up carry and this will be prone to be in a backpack.
The feel after the initial overcoming of the locking mechanism is that it moves alont the pivot nicely and even but feels a bit jagged. I mean, it's not consistent force that you must apply, it is a wave of + force - a little lesss-a little more- a little less. This is hardly noticeable.
After you compretely open it, the axis lock snaps with a quality sounding thump that sounds like a precission snap-to-detent. Again, it's all very subtle. It must be the most silent and easy operating of my knives.

I enjoy opening and closing them mostly becase feeling the mechanism work is satisfactory in itself but also, you need to in order to contemplate it whole.
A fixed blade you can admire as is. A folder you have to experience by whatching it closed, opening, observing it open, and closing. If I don't open I'm just experiencing 1/4 of its dimension, let alone use.
Also I have a few less knives than you do and I'm still learning a lot, so I have the need to experience them more. You might have absorved enough to the point you don't need to, and can observe knives as the pure concept.

Thank you very much for the responses and pictures.
 
I must say I absolutely love my 806D2. I had the pleasure to fondle some of Tim's fine knives shown above (l2lku2).
I'm sure he remembers me saying "Woah! That's an awesome and comfortable folder!" when handling one of his AFCK.
I always liked the look but was not sure of the handle.

Since that moment last year, I've been on the lookout here to find my own 806D2.

Here's some pictures of my own specimen:

806D2afck_02.jpg


806D2afck_03.jpg



Great one!!! Almost there! if it would be satin I'd be very jealous now!
But it also would compliment mine nicely. I'm definitely getting the satin plain edge but yours looks great. I din't mind serrated edges though I prefer them for it's use and it suits the afck.

What a great knife this is. I carried it yersterday and used it a bit and its bot dissapointing. It's nowhere as sharp as many of my knives but it cuts with confidence. The design makes it cut better, also you notice the steel too as its still as sharp and has a mirror edge that glides through.
 
You guys have me remembering an old itch that I could never bring myself to scratch. I too have never been a huge fan of coated blades, so every once in a while I kick around the idea of removing the coating on my AFCK to get a nice finish like I2Iku2's. I would have done it long ago except the damn things marked Prototype and once that marking is removed you can't put it back. So, my question is would any of you guys care one way or another if it was a Prototype? I really don't know how Benchmade works with prototypes. There may be hundreds in which case I wouldn't care, or there may be only a few making it a rarity. AFCK1.jpg
 
Considering it's already used, I wouldn't worry too much about removing the prototype marking. Also, if the process used to apply that prototype mark is the same as the rest of the blade, it'll be underneath the coating as well. When my buddy removed his coating, all the logos and info were retained underneath as well.

As for smoothing the scales, my 806 has rounded edges, as shown above in a photo. Our own glockman did that mod and then sold it to me. I sometimes take it for granted and forget that they don't come like that from the factory. Some high grit sandpaper and a bit of patience should make the task easy for just about anyone. Go slow and work the edges evenly, finishing with a fine grit (automotive sandpaper works great for this) for a polished finish.
 
I came across this knife at a pawn shop the other day. It has a small chip about .25" from the tip, but it is still sharp, and the black coating is just perfectly worn and beat up. The blade moves very smooth, so I knocked him on the $65 price, he gave it to me for $45! As I said, she ain't no virgin, but I don't plan on babying it either! As an aircraft mechanic, it will see aluminium speed tape, cardboard, string, gasket material..... and my lunch!!
From the opinions expressed here, I think I did pretty well on the deal! Now, if the shop will just come down on the 1942 German Officers Dagger in the display case!!! $1200 seems a touch expensive!!
 
I came across this knife at a pawn shop the other day. It has a small chip about .25" from the tip, but it is still sharp, and the black coating is just perfectly worn and beat up. The blade moves very smooth, so I knocked him on the $65 price, he gave it to me for $45! As I said, she ain't no virgin, but I don't plan on babying it either! As an aircraft mechanic, it will see aluminium speed tape, cardboard, string, gasket material..... and my lunch!!
From the opinions expressed here, I think I did pretty well on the deal! Now, if the shop will just come down on the 1942 German Officers Dagger in the display case!!! $1200 seems a touch expensive!!

Glad you're happy with your purchase!

On another note, holy thread resurrection Batman!
 
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