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Benchmade Barrage 581 safety removal

M

metalman8600

Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
6
Hello. I just picked up this awesome knife. However, I do have a strong desire to remove the safety switch, as I find it extremely unnecessary. I have seen a tutorial on how to disassemble a mini-Barrage, but I think the insides of the 581 will probably be different. Has anyone ever removed the safety from the BM 581 or the 580? I can't find much info.
 
Well I found some info, apparently you have to remove the thumbstuds and angle the blade back in? Haven't taken it apart yet.

Question: If I remove the safety button, will Benchmade still sharpen my knife if I send it in? Or will they be like "Warranty is void, so scram."???
 
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They would probably consider that a void of warranty. However, if you need to send it in, just put the safety back in. You would want to be careful not to scratch up anything inside as that would let them know you'd been in there, but that shouldn't be too hard.

Where did you find the tutorial that you mentioned? I took my 580 apart to take out the assisted opening spring (legality concerns in my location) and ran into a few snags that have resulted in my knife being out of commission for the past month-in-a-half of so. Anything I can find on fixing my problem (pivot screw seems stripped, it just spins and spins but doesn't actually come out) would be great!
 
I cant get my pivot screw out either. The aluminum piece it is screwed into just spins along with the screw.


Ok.... got it. There is a 2mm deep flat spot on the center bushing that must be engaged with the liner in order to get the screw out...so push the the aluminum thing inward and loosen the screw slowly. When the screw pops out a little bit, start pushing the liners tightly together aswell in order to keep the aluminum thing in that exact spot. The screw will now come out. I assume it's the same for putting it back in. About to find out.
 
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Yeah, that's my problem. I've scratched the inside of mine to high heck and back with pliers and whatnot in an effort to get it out- to no avail.
 
You dont have to use pliers, just push the liners together and push the aluminum cylinder in with them. And then turn the screw. The inside aluminum cylinder is a threaded tube with a 2mm deep flat spot on the other end that engages the opposite side liner.


Now im having a super hard time putting it back in. They really made the aluminum cylinder too short! It only engages about less than half a milimeter on the other liner!


Ok, I took the thumb studs off using 2 T6 bits and I had the blade go more 'open' than normal (past the thumbstud holes) and I was somehow easily able to get the pivot screw out.

its now down to its individual pieces.
 
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I finally figured it out. Your bushing that the spring rides in is probably not in all the way. I was wrong about not enough ledge space on the center threaded cylinder. Take the thumb studs off (use 2 T6) and also take the rotating stop pin spacer out. There should not be much space on either side of the blade where it pivots,but I'm guessing on yours there is. Only the copper bushing and about the same thickness of that bushing that holds the spring should be visible on either side of the knife. Once the thumbstuds are off and the space pin out, have the blade go beyond it's normal stop, that will get your spring bushing realigned back into the recess of the blade.

When you put the blade back in, the blade needs to be placed on top of the spring thing at the angle where it naturally stops (beyond the normal stopping point). Look how the spring engages the machined recess in the blade and youll see what I mean. Sometimes the blade likes to come unaligned from the spring bushing when you put the blade back on, if that happens, the blade wont stay closed and you will be able to see the spring bushing between the liners and you will have that pivot screw trouble again.
 
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They should have never put that stupid safety mechanism in there to begin with.


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