Benchmade cerakote durability problems

richstag said:
.I don't get how an actual coating will not prevent corrosion though.
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I agree, any coating has to provide some protection from rust. I think the question is to what degree or how much.

An an example. They paint bridges and ships to help prevent rust but over time the metal will rust threw the paint anyway and it has to be continuously reapplied. So, it does do something but only so much.

Again not to single out any one company but the "paint" Cold Steel coats their machetes with only does so much and I have seen a CS machete blades where it has rusted threw the coating. But it's meant to be a cheap coating for a hard use tool that doesn't cost all that much to begin with so you don't really care that much if it has a little rust.

What I'm getting so far is DLC has to provide some corrosion prevention but it's primary attributes as a coating isn'tcorrosion prevention. still, it has to do something?

The Spyderco sub forum seems to have covered this topic quite extensively so I may have a look and see what I can find.

Very interesting topic though.
 
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Hi richstag,

In a nutshell, DLC is carbon depositing to the metal surface by means of hybridization. The listed method are chemical vapor deposition or physical vapor deposition. It is actually growing carbon structure on the metal surface.

CVD has advantage in not interfering heat treatment, but retains additional molecules such as hydrogen when hydrocarbon is used as the base. PVD has advantage of not having other molecules, therefor forms stronger cohesion on the surface. Disadvantage is of cause it might affect negatively on heat treatment. I can see the solution for knives are better in case of heat treated steel to have CVD method. Then again because of some "contamination", it might cause weakness in corrosion, not that DLC is porous. On M4, it might become Achilles' heel since M4 isn't stainless. I don't have exact figure to compare to corrosion resistance compare to stainless steel though.
 
On CVD method, there are hydrogen free method. In general CVD with some hydrogen can also generate self lubrication, so this is not necessarily a bad thing. Non hydrogen CVD method has advantage, if it is constantly immersed in hydrocarbons, but will be less lubricated. This atomic level of lubrication also contribute to wear resistance as the metal edge glides along cutting surfaces.
 
I also have a problem with my BM 810 and I'm not starting to dislike cerakote.Only carried mine at home and only IWB in my shorts,so one day I pulled it out and noticed a brown stain on the blade and the BM logo rusted.Second issue was discovered when I disassembled it to grind the jimping down and noticed around the blade pivot,painted was starting to chip along with rust at the edges of the chips.Took a 1" steel rotary brush with light pressure and what surprised me was how easily the cerakote coating was removed, along with the rust.
 
razorburn said:
I also have a problem with my BM 810 and I'm not starting to dislike cerakote.Only carried mine at home and only IWB in my shorts,so one day I pulled it out and noticed a brown stain on the blade and the BM logo rusted.Second issue was discovered when I disassembled it to grind the jimping down and noticed around the blade pivot,painted was starting to chip along with rust at the edges of the chips.Took a 1" steel rotary brush with light pressure and what surprised me was how easily the cerakote coating was removed, along with the rust.
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I've found Flitz polish works very well to gently removed rust and won't harm the finish. You might have apply more then once depending on the severity.

Also, going forward I've been using Break-Free CLP on both my firearms and knives for years with great results. It's a very good rust inhibitor. I apply, let sit for the recommended 2 hour cure and wipe off the excess. I do this every so often or as needed on my carry or working knives (especially carbon steel blades) and it's worked very well for me as far as preventing corrosion.

I also EDC the 810 and so far so good.

Hope this helps and all the best!
 
razorburn said:
Took a 1" steel rotary brush with light pressure and what surprised me was how easily the cerakote coating was removed, along with the rust.
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Sorry to resurrect an oldie, but this was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I have been hesitant to really use my 810 because while some love the used look I do not. Some wear and scuffs are all good but deep gouges look bad to me. I'm going to use it now without holding back and what happens happens. Once before I thought this but didn't want to have the blade sand blasted to remove the finish. Much research shows Cerakote is chemically god like and not even acid takes it off. Sand blasting was my only thought but that rounds edges and has other draw backs. Using a wire wheel to buff it off just didn't cross my mind. Brilliant!!! As an added plus, I'll try and take it easy removing it and see if a micro thin layer remains to help prevent corrosion. If not, it's easy keeping carbon steel under control w/o coatings. I wonder what finish is hiding under that thick layer go protective ceramic goop. Man, I hope I can wait a while to achieve some wear and not just buff it off in a few nights!!!! I'm freaking excited, this has been in the back of my mind for nearly a year!

Thanks razorburn!
 
There's always this option. I dont like coated knives due to poor aesthetics of wear. I really liked the HK14716 but it only comes in a coated blade. My solution:






 
Unfortunately BM's Cerakote was applied improperly at some point in the process. The 810 will lose, scratches and chips, quickly and easily with just normal use. Even cutting cardboard will scratch and chip it. I don't even know why it is coated as anyone can keep a carbon blade from rusting with minimal care. I stopped buying BM after the price hike. I can not justify paying nearly $200 for a knife that will look like crap in ten minutes from normal use. I have DLC blades that have been used hard for 10+ years that show no signs of wear.
 
SOLEIL said:
.... I can not justify paying nearly $200 for a knife that will look like crap in ten minutes from normal use....
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But some of us prefer the looks of individual character in a well-used used knife.
 
Get rid of the coating. While you're at it, fix the horrible tip and handle.

IMG_6227e.jpg
 
As for getting it refinished. As others said.
Cheaper to reblade
 
jpm2 said:
Get rid of the coating. While you're at it, fix the horrible tip and handle.
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Thanks for the input, but why not share your method? Without saying how you did these things there is little to no contribution to the thread.

The blade with the coating removed looks good and the tip work is excellent. I'm not sure I like the reduced tip strength though.. You know, if you have to pry a door open! ;)
I can't tell you did anything to the handle though. Maybe some spikes look less needle like. I sanded my down so long ago it's hard to remember how painful they used to be.
 
I scraped the coating off with a softer knife blade (rat2 aus8), filed the sharp edges and belly of the handle, reshaped the tip with a sharpening stone (Norton JB8).
I don't think the tip strength has been reduced much, if any.

It cuts better without the coating (less drag), feels much better in the hand (better contours), and the tip is almost useable now.
 
Jpm2, I like your blade shape much better than the original design. Good work!
 
For those who aren't familiar DLC means "Diamond Like Carbon" My experience with other brands that use it is that it is very hard, and very durable, often more som than the steel under it. In other places I have seen it readily get marks that are the result of other material rubbing off on it rather than it scratching. even when I thought it was scratched it was still just aluminum oxide (anodizing) that had deposited on it.
 
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