Benchmade Griptilian 551 BK Getting Scratched UP

The thing is that you will need, after sharpening many times, to reset the bevel. In that case you might want to have the diamond rods. I personally like the combo of the Lansky sharpening system for reprofiling and the sharpmaker for touch-ups.
 
Just get this:

http://www.amazon.com/DMT-WM8FC-8-Inch-DuoSharpplus-without/dp/B0001408UC

with the base (or better yet, the 10" version), practice on something disposable, and you'll be all set (for many enjoyable years of freehand sharpening).

I don't know about the honing guide thing that Amazon's displaying as a "frequent accessory". IMHO, better to just go freehand right away and avoid building dependence on crutches such as guides, rods, and the like.

That DMT base is very handy. Not only is it a well-engineered stand for the hone, but it's got a handle on the back such that you can move the hone across a particularly large blade (e.g. lawn mower) rather than the other way around.
 
I'm going to get the Spyderco Sharpmaker guys w/o any extras. Like I said, my nice knives are all factory sharp. I use "beaters" to cut things open with, so I should just need a stroke or two on a fine stone (some time down the road).

Thanks! :)
 
Yeah. I sharpened up a tom mayo TNT which has a really hard blade with just the medium stones and it had a chip and flatspots in it. Took me no less than an hour i believe. Well, the time flew lol. I believe the gentleman i sharpened it for is a member on this forum. Anyways, you'll be fine with the stones that it comes with. You don't need to do a stroke on the left and one on the right, i just do equal on both sides. The white ones are good for touchups or a quick edge the "brown" ones are good for a new edge.
 
The 40 degree setting. That is for the edge that makes your knife sharp. The grind that you can see on all your knives that is like 1/8" high is the 30 degree setting. I personally just use the sharp corners, not the flats of the stones to sharpen. Works wonders for me. The only time i use the flats is if im trying to remake a tip after filing the spine of the knife down to make the initial point. Remember, don't let the knife tip slide off(across) the stone as it will dull the tip. As you get better you'll develop some skill and be able to go faster, but take your time for the first few until you get the hang of it. Pretend youre cutting a part of the stone off, keep the knife perfectly vertical like youre trying to cut a straight piece of cheese. Don't angle the knife with the stone.
 
Thanks Much,

I've got it - but a video on the sharpmaker did say that Spydercos come with a 30 degree angle. I think it's best not to obsess about it and maybe look up the angle on a particular knife before I sharpen it. 40 degrees is what most of the videos said and I hear it comes with it's own dvd from Spyderco.

I appreciate all of your help! :D
 
cziv said:
So, samhain73 what you're saying is you do or don't need the diamond rods to keep an already sharp edge - staying sharp?

Say, if I start cutting up boxes with my Spydercos and Benchmades (which I never do btw) and feel they need a little tune-up, then the "Sharpmaker" standard kit w/o diamond rods, is all that I'd need to keep them razor sharp?

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
Yes, that is exactly right. With standard use as long as the edge matches the sharpmaker, that is all you will need. BUT...I'm not sure if Benchmade edge angles match the sharpmaker.
I know Benchmade used to set the edge at 22 deg, which means hours of re beveling on the existing stones, which are set up at 20. Unless you lean the edge up against the stones, which kinda defeats the purpose of the sharpmaker set angles. I gave up all sharpening guides a long time ago, and just learned how the free hand. In the end its much less frustration, and you don't worry if it will fit, etc. To have a set angle is just like someone telling you what to do, and I'm pretty rebellious. :cool:
 
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