Benchmade....not the sharpest out of the box,in my experience.

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Over time and knives, I've noticed widely different grinds on my Benchmades. Some came popping sharp, and others definitely not so. It seems that lately what I've purchased has arrived in box sharper than not in general. My new 907 in D2 had one the best edges out of box I've ever seen and the 950 in 154cm I got yesterday is the same.

While waiting to get the money for an Edge Pro, I'm using a Gatco system with the rod set to 25 degrees, and use the untra-fine ceramic stone out of the kit freehand to touch up the edge.

That followed by stropping with a cutlery grade piece of leather keeps most of 'em sharp as I need them to be.

For ones I can't get right, I've been sending them to BM's LifeSharp service and whatever machine they use seems to put that good edge back on.

I think the latest round from BM are coming out right and sharp, but it's still a factory edge in need of customizing!
 
Sharp to me is the bevel and edge mirror-polished and fine enough to push cut the upturned edge of a phone book page.
I am not prepared to pay someone (and the profit margins for all the intermediaries) to do that for me.
Besides I get a great deal of satisfaction doing it for myself and knowing that I can do it again any time the knife needs it.
Greg
 
For consistency over the years, Spyderco does seem to be sharp out of the box.

Benchmade has improved alot over the last couple of years.

Kershaw has been inconsistent. BUT, the worst cuts I've gotten from out of the box knives has been from Kershaw knives. My right thumb and index finger still show memories of a Chive I bought as a gift.
 
I have can only coment on Spyderco and Benchmade. I think both companies put great edges on there knives. I think what happens is that with all the different types of sharpening systems out there we get used to how easy it is to put this scary sharp edge on our knives, and when we get a new knife the out of the box sharpness seems to be lacking. Everybody has a different view and definition of sharpness. Like when I lend my knife to a friend and he marvels at how sharp the blade is, I think "Wow I was thinking it was starting to drag a little and was going to sharpen it when I got home". I have noticed a direct corralation to knife sharpness and edge longevity. It seems the sharper the knife is out of the box the quicker it needs to be either sharpened or repetitive touch ups. I normally like to stick with the "touch ups" because it is easier to maintain. just my 2 cents.
 
First,to defend the Kershaw Damascus Leek - mine came as sharp as my Buck Custom Shop Damascus 110 and Bear 597D. None were real shavers... but all are unreal at cutting through paper/wood. It's the micro-sawtooth-like edge - it cuts differently - and longer - than a single fine edge. The large Bear Damascus Bowie was fairly dull to feel - but still quite a slicer.

My experience with brands has proven 100% scarey sharp Spydercos - but that's one - an S30V Native. My Bucks folders, mainly 110s - but including that popper #419 Folding Kalinga Pro (S30V), were all right there, too - along with the fixed Bucks. My Kershaws were next, although their 440A steel wasn't impressive at keeping an edge, with Vic SAKs alongside. The sole BM folder, a 550 Gryp with 440C, came just above the $5 Pakastani 110 copies. Nice action on that BM, however.

Fixed blades... the tops is my recent discovery - Bark River. Odd how their very-convex edge never 'looks' sharp... but only run a digit down it that you don't need. Buck follows, for consistency, if nothing else. Whether my long awaited 408 K-P (S30V) or a $34 Wally World 119, scarey sharp shaver out of the box. Older Marbles - and Northwoods Knives - are up there, too. Pumas need a bit of hone time - but worth it - nice knives. The dullest out of the box was my pre-Christmas BM 201 Activator+ (D2). Original KaBars are generally very sharp.

As BM is 0 for 2 here, and my Buck, Kershaw, & Spyderco experience has been so great, I won't miss them. Oddly, it took a Spydie 'Sharpmaker' for me to finally master the double bevel, while single bevel woodworking carvers/chisels/irons were never a problem for my collection of AR stones & Japaneese waterstones. The newer convex blades are easily touched up with a mousepad and some 1500 grit SiC w/d paper - then Semichrome. As stated, generally - out of the box - they don't need it.

Stainz
 
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