Benefit to pre-quench other air hardening steels?

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Grayzer86

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I know that we have discussed the benefits of the 1725 pre-quench that Hoss suggests for AEB-L, and I have been using that step myself with good results. This brought up a question that I wasn’t able to get much of an answer for by searching. I also use CPM154, and S35VN, and I don’t hear much of anything about whether a prequench is helpful to these steels. This got me wondering if there would be any benefit to using a similar process on these other steels, or if it would have no effect, or even a negative effect. I’m not looking to re-invent the wheel, it’s just something I have been pondering lately.
 
Sorry to side track Larrin Larrin I'd PM you but you don't have access to it. If you have an email address I have something I'd like to share with you considering all the knowledge you share on the forum I think you might appreciate and get some use from.
 
The purpose of the prequench is to condition the steel in order to produce smaller grain and more carbides before the final austenitize and quench.

The smaller the grain going in, the smaller the grain coming out.

The more and smaller the carbide going in the more the grain boundries are pinned preventing grain growth.

A prequench (under hardening) then a temper (higher), produces the most and smallest carbides providing the best condition to austenitize and quench from.

Hoss
 
DevinT said:
The purpose of the prequench is to condition the steel in order to produce smaller grain and more carbides before the final austenitize and quench..................(snip)
A prequench (under hardening) then a temper (higher), produces the most and smallest carbides providing the best condition to austenitize and quench from.Hoss
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Does that apply to most any high alloyed steel? i.e. All SS and tool steels?
 
KnuckleDownKnives said:
Sorry to side track Larrin Larrin I'd PM you but you don't have access to it. If you have an email address I have something I'd like to share with you considering all the knowledge you share on the forum I think you might appreciate and get some use from.
Click to expand...
Email me at larrinthomas at gmail
 
Thanks all, especially Devin and Larrin. As a side question I was wondering about your thoughts on my sub zero. Using dry ice has been working well but still occasionally get some warping when going into the dry ice. I have been considering clamping straight in my staightening jig and submerging the whole thing. My thought was if I have 5 identical fillets without bevels, I could stack them and clamp the whole bunch. My concern would be uneven cooling rate. I’m not sure if this would help or if it would possibly cause even more warp due to the blades cooling unevenly.
 
Distortion in heat treating is caused by things growing or shrinking. There is no way to completely eliminate warping.

I spend my life waiting for stuff to heat up and straightening stuff after every step.

I’d try clamping some mild stock on the outside of the bunch of blades.

Hoss
 
Larrin said:
As long as I don't receive any naughty videos.
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No, nothing like that. If your dad cares to share with you what I told him in the pm I sent him. Knife related material. I have other hobbies.

Apologies not trying to hyjack the thread.
 
DevinT said:
Distortion in heat treating is caused by things growing or shrinking. There is no way to completely eliminate warping.

I spend my life waiting for stuff to heat up and straightening stuff after every step.

I’d try clamping some mild stock on the outside of the bunch of blades.

Hoss
Click to expand...

Hello, Hoss, if I may, there’s a way to diminish warping (or to easily correct it) that is quenching in a hotter than usual medium (oil, salt). That’s called marquenching, correct? My Polish makers use it constantly (if I remember well) and even Fredrik Haakonsen uses it: http://kniver.blogspot.pt/2007/08/herding-med-fredrik-jeg-har-ikke-lest.html?m=1
 
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