Bent BK9

Its a right hand cut Becker. Its rare and expensive.
Seriously, its cool the man himself wants to address the issue.
I have a bk 10. I wouldn't hesitate to hide behind it in a nuclear blast.
 
Yeah, looks like it bent in the HT transition area in the handle (where it goes from hard to soft). I can't say I've ever seen one bend like that before. Did the blade stay straight, or did it bend as well?
 
It looks to me the blade is straight and the handle bent . Ha , how in the world could that happen ??
 
My guess is after getting it stuck batoning through a log, the process of trying to get it free involved some lateral stress. Only way the whole blade stays straight when the handle bends is if the handle is the only thing able to move.
 
My guess is still.....conjecture. The OP knows how it happened, Ethan steps up to the plate and.....this is what I love about the BK&T sub - the "B". What we armchair operators believe or do not believe is truth.....matters not to the Boss. Thanks again, Ethan, for being such a gracious host to those of us in your house. OP: after seeing that picture, I think my first post may have been.....a little pre-emptive.
 
could be time to go back to solid tangs

easier to make, cheaper for KaBar, possibly stronger too.

most of the current crop of breaks is right up front at or near the first bolt and the cutout.

or perhaps don't do the front cutout... leave the rest?
 
Bladite said:
could be time to go back to solid tangs

easier to make, cheaper for KaBar, possibly stronger too.

most of the current crop of breaks is right up front at or near the first bolt and the cutout.

or perhaps don't do the front cutout... leave the rest?
Click to expand...

That's why I bought a Cam 2. Perhaps not as weight forward, but I like the idea of a solid tang. :thumbup:
 
Solid tang would definitely be stronger . I like Bladite idea of eliminating the first cutout . You would still have forward weight . But the right size boot could still bend it in the right conditions ?
 
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Bladite said:
could be time to go back to solid tangs

easier to make, cheaper for KaBar, possibly stronger too.

most of the current crop of breaks is right up front at or near the first bolt and the cutout.

or perhaps don't do the front cutout... leave the rest?
Click to expand...

This, plus would love to see BK9 made of same stock thickness as Camillus did. 0.21 IIRC.
 
Chameleonbear said:
Too thick, too heavy. I'd like to see them keep doing what they are doing! Since the knife is a WICKED thing!
Click to expand...

It's a bit thin for what most people use large knife such a BK9.
I think it would benefit from added 1.5 oz or so (that's about the difference in weight between 0.188 and 0.210).
0.022" increase in thickness wouldn't decrease its cutting ability by much but it would help quite a lot in other areas.
 
In reference to the cutouts in the handle, how about smaller holes, like from a drill bit instead of a huge cutout.
 
bghorn said:
It's a bit thin for what most people use large knife such a BK9.
I think it would benefit from added 1.5 oz or so (that's about the difference in weight between 0.188 and 0.210).
0.022" increase in thickness wouldn't decrease its cutting ability by much but it would help quite a lot in other areas.
Click to expand...

I used to think like that, but honestly I disagree at this point (respectfully of course, everyone can have their own opinion, doesn't bother me any).

I've owned my BK9 for... 4 years now? At first I wanted a 1/4in thick version. Then I noticed that it doesn't need to be any thicker (for how I use it at least). I rarely baton anything > 6in, and even then I try to choose nice straight grained wood for the ones that get batoned. And I've never once saw a bend in my BK9's blade using it like that (I did get it to deflect a tiny bit earlier on in a ~5-6in heavily knotted piece). The BK9 was also the knife that made me realize that I don't really have a need/use for a 1/4in knife anymore, as if even the much longer BK9 (meaning, longer than the BK2) doesn't bend/show signs of struggling with 3/16in thick stock, then 1/4 is just overkill, ESPECIALLY in shorter blades.

I also don't chop much with it (anything over 4-5in takes too long, and I'll just use my folding saw), so extra weight doesn't appeal to me that way either.

And finally, I am fine with the skeletonized tangs. They should be just as strong in the same axis that the blade is strong, and reduce weight. The only problems I've ever seen with the skeletonized tangs, is that the HT transition happens there, which I'm not exactly convinced is the fault of the cutouts (vs the HT transitioning), but I don't claim to have seen anything.

Anyway, I'm fine with the BK9 as is. If anything, I'd be fine with a drop point, FFG version :).
 
I'd love a bk9 slightly thicker and with a drop point like the 2. Don't think I'd want bk2 thickness as it'd add a good bit of weight but 0.210 would be just enough.
 
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