bent my knife

mete said:
"Batoning and Hidden Tang Knives " is a pdf which explains a lot !! I have it on my computer but can't find a way to get it on the thread ! Please read it !!
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1) It's on the internet.
2) It is not universally applicable. MANY hidden tang knives can handle the forces involved and then some. The chemical make-up and grain structure of the steel, hardness and quality of heat-treatment, the area over which the energy is distributed, and the presence of specific focal-points ('stress-risers') all play a role. The Mora's described in the essay are VERY thin, the tangs present very little supporting metal to resist the forces involved. And they held up better than the other knives he described. Hmm...

3) It sounds as if the OP's blade bent, not the tang, and bent laterally from the pressure of the wood-grain without returning 'true' once the load was removed. That indicates a probably tempering problem.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Helle's laminated blades will bend rather than break, but they're really intended for cutting, not batoning. That being said, you can probably straighten it in a vise, or by tapping it with a hammer (use a thin piece of wood to avoid dinging the blade).
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Just so. That style of knife is not meant for that kind of abuse. It's basically a long term belt knife. Not sure why people always try to baton with short, thinner knives all the time. I would say if you're carrying that sort of knife, you probably belong in the "find ways around batoning with my knife" crowd and just don't know it yet, haha!
 
RemyKaze said:
Just so. That style of knife is not meant for that kind of abuse. It's basically a long term belt knife. Not sure why people always try to baton with short, thinner knives all the time. I would say if you're carrying that sort of knife, you probably belong in the "find ways around batoning with my knife" crowd and just don't know it yet, haha!
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I hear what you're saying, but I know the OP in real life. Sig_Op has a nice little collection of fixed-blades and plenty of experience using them. I think a Temagami should be able to hold up at least as well as a Mora in this case. Don't think he'd risk his Helle otherwise. Maybe it was just rotten luck... maybe there was a problem with the knife... hard to say.
 
it was used enough for a wedge not to baton through the full piece of wood. i wouldnt exactely call the knife a hidden tang maybe 3/4 tang idk it comes to the butt of the knife. i understand it isnt supposed to be batoned with. i kept the piece of wood, there were no nots, went with grain not across. ill send some pics to timerweasel when i get the chance very busy atm with work. if i still have the wood ill show pics of that.
 
well i tried contacting helle and no response. Everytime i looked at the knife, i saw dissapointment. gave to a fellow forumite
 
timberweasel said:
I hear what you're saying, but I know the OP in real life. Sig_Op has a nice little collection of fixed-blades and plenty of experience using them. I think a Temagami should be able to hold up at least as well as a Mora in this case. Don't think he'd risk his Helle otherwise. Maybe it was just rotten luck... maybe there was a problem with the knife... hard to say.
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Nope, don't think it was a heat treating issue. If it's a laminated scandi, only a very thin central section of the blade is hard and can resist permanent deformation. i have personally bent laminated Mora blades with my hands, no batoning required ~ and the edges were harder than woodpecker lips. If folks want to baton with fairly thin blades it is better to use through hardened mono-steel blades. Thin differentially hardened blades can and will take a set just like this blade did.
Best,
Steve
 
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