Best axe for oak?

A GB is not a good choice for splitting hardwoods like oak. For felling a tree that may be different but I'm not sure. There are several GB bit-geometry forums you can search for though. :D
 
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vcbvcbvcb said:
What's the best brand and design of axe for chopping oak? Thanks
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They all work fine providing they're kept good and sharp and the wood is green, and you're not being paid by the log. If spitting seasoned oak firewood is your main ambition don't bother with a limbing or chopping axe but get something with thick cheeks and that has some weight to it (ie maul).
 
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There is no felling by a private citizen in my area. The oak and pine are cut by the government and left in place in 4'-8' logs. No vehicle access right at the wood. I chop the 8' pieces into into 4' and carry them back to the van. A lot of the wood is seasoned from last year. Last weekend I brought a 4lb axe (total weight) and a smaller husqvarna multipurpose axe. I sharpened both with a file, then lansky puck, then sandpaper before setting out. They both pretty much bounced off the wood. I'm thinking about getting a big Helko axe with a 3.5lb head, or putting together a large vintage axe. Splitting is done at home with a large Fiskers splitting axe, which I will probably replace with a real splitting maul. It's truly a splitting axe and not a maul.
 
Good to know. My 1st time with oak. I thought it was me. Maybe I should just bring a saw, but no power means a hand saw. I guess I could bring the generator and a sawzall.
 
Yeah...dry oak is a beast. My GB small forest axe will dry shave and has a thin bit and will still barely penetrate seasoned oak that isn't rotted. You may want a big axe...4 or 5-pound head on a 36 inch haft sharpened very well (Council Tool makes an affordable 4 and 5-pound Dayton pattern). As the logs are down, the heavy axe should be able to do most of the work provided your chopping is placed well.
 
Energy wise, sawing those logs will be far better than chopping.
Easier yet if its powered sawing...:thumbup:
Sorry sawing does not have the trendy fad masculine appeal of axe chopping.

Dried hardwoods will be a challange for anybodys axe.
 
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JonathanCharles said:
A GB is not a good choice for splitting hardwoods like oak. For felling a tree that may be different but I'm not sure. There are several GB bit-geometry forums you can search for though. :D
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I was trying to give the man an excuse get an axe.... My plans have been thwarted once again!
 
Frankly, I'm doing this partly for the exercise. Chopping wood is a great core exercise. However, I'd like it to be productive for fire wood at the same time. The axe bouncing off the wood is very unsatisfying, even for exercise. I'll take a look at the big council tool axe. My brother's going next time and he has a chainsaw.
 
Oak is bad enough, around here in NE texas we have bodark aka osage orange aka hedge, which when its all seasoned up forget using an axe, or a normal handsaw as the teeth are too big and just grip on the wood fibers. On small pieces i use a metal hacksaw blade, big pieces a chainsaw which throws sparks and smokes/burns the wood at the cut.
 
I just looked at Council Tool. I have a choice in head patterns. Jersey, Double bit with a phantom design, Hudson Bay, and Dayton. SCT100 suggested the Dayton pattern. No one expressed a difference of opinion regarding the Dayton, so I'm thinking that might be the consensus of opinion?
 
vcbvcbvcb said:
I just looked at Council Tool. I have a choice in head patterns. Jersey, Double bit with a phantom design, Hudson Bay, and Dayton. SCT100 suggested the Dayton pattern. No one expressed a difference of opinion regarding the Dayton, so I'm thinking that might be the consensus of opinion?
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I've handled some CT axes and there kinda rough around the edges but as far as axes go, there usable. Take a look at husqvarna axes, there made my GB and are a cheaper alternative and they have some of the finest axe steel on the market.
 
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