Best axe for oak?

[SC T100]

Or if you wanted to have some fun, go grab an antique axe head and re-haft it.

I've handled some CT axes and there kinda rough around the edges but as far as axes go, there usable. Take a look at husqvarna axes, there made my GB and are a cheaper alternative and they have some of the finest axe steel on the market.

Yes, they are for sure a little rough around the edges. They'll need some sharpening and sanding/oiling, but both the 4 and 5-pound Dayton I have refurbed have decently high centerlines, and the 5-pounder especially is an excellent splitter and holds and edge very well. A Big vintage axe with a high centerline could be the ticket if you can find one for cheap as well.

They have some really nice jersey patterns as well, but I think they max at 3.5 pounds. If you want a faster/lighter axe, those would be a good choice as well. I have handled the standard CTs as a local hardware store has them..rough, but well built overall. The length is around 35" for the Daytons and Jersey I believe.

If the Husqvarna has a high centerline I am sure it would be a good option as well, but it's Swedish-made by Hultafors and they all tend to have flat cheeks. Who knows, though....maybe that would give better penetration. I doubt it though, and I would think you would risk more edge damage on thin, flat heads. I could most certainly be wrong though.

 

[SC T100]

I just checked...the Daytons actually go to 6 pounds with 36" (and others) curved or straight handles, and the Jerseys max at 3.5 pounds with a 36" handle (with a few other lengths too).

 

[markv]

There is no felling by a private citizen in my area. The oak and pine are cut by the government and left in place in 4'-8' logs. No vehicle access right at the wood. I chop the 8' pieces into into 4' and carry them back to the van. A lot of the wood is seasoned from last year. Last weekend I brought a 4lb axe (total weight) and a smaller husqvarna multipurpose axe. I sharpened both with a file, then lansky puck, then sandpaper before setting out. They both pretty much bounced off the wood. I'm thinking about getting a big Helko axe with a 3.5lb head, or putting together a large vintage axe. Splitting is done at home with a large Fiskers splitting axe, which I will probably replace with a real splitting maul. It's truly a splitting axe and not a maul.

i would consider a one-man crosscut saw. sharpened correctly these saws will do the job of bucking.
sharpening one of the old saws is rewarding and a skill worth learning if you use wood.

 

[trailtime]

I chop and (crosscut) saw a lot of dead, dry oak. I don't have any difficulty with it other than the chips are smaller than when I cut poplar and I have never had a axe bounce off any wood I've chopped. If by bounce you mean the axe ricochets off the log, then perhaps you are filing too blunt of an edge. If you buy a racing or work axe from Eddie Fawcett (Tuatahi) he will ask you what type of wood you plan to chop, as a coastal ash has properties different than a mountain ash, etc., meaning that it's not the axe so much as the grind you put on it.

+1 for using a crosscut saw to buck logs, providing you REALLY want the exercise.

 

[300Six]

Now that you've established that firewood is the primary goal get yourself a maul (or substantial axe) and a splitting wedge. I've never heard anyone around here bitterly complain about Red or White Oak (or any of the hard Maples, for that matter) and those are the very same folks that curse the 'cleaving' properties of Elm and Ironwood with a passion.

 

[vcbvcbvcb]

SC-100, how do I evaluate "high centerline"?
First suspect, I looked for a 4Lb husqvarna axe and couldn't find one. However, Helko has one.
Everybody else, so what's better, new CT and Helko or old vintage, and which ole vintage?

 

[idaho_crosscut]

I have spent some time chopping (not splitting) dry southern live oak which is probably some of the hardest wood i have ever chopped. i would say that if your axe is "bouncing" the problem might more lie within the angle of your axes entry into the wood. your axe should come in at a 45 degree to the tree. that angle is often 'steepend' by novice users, and it might be helpful to actually draw out the angle on your log to help train your body. when you steepen that angle, your axe is cutting more directly across the fibers, which is very difficult chopping, indeed.

as far as an axe profile, i like a chisel bit grind with a fairly fat chisel on an axe with a lower profile centerline. the bigger the axe, the better-- but once you get above 5lbs, they can be pretty monstrous to swing for me.

earlier, someone mentioned putting a 36" handle on the big, heavy axes, and I would recommend against that for chopping (maybe felling, but that is a different story). a smaller handle (32") will be a lot easier and more energy efficient to raise over your head, and will make it much easier to be accurate during the swing. also, you can chop underhand (standing on log) without hitting yourself in the groin-- probably the biggest advantage in my opinion!

 

[300Six]

SC-100, how do I evaluate "high centerline"?
First suspect, I looked for a 4Lb husqvarna axe and couldn't find one. However, Helko has one.
Everybody else, so what's better, new CT and Helko or old vintage, and which ole vintage?

Euro axes have flat cheeks. Virtually all of them! As does most current manufacture stuff. Pictured is a 75 year old 4 1/2 lb Walters (Canadian; with somewhat flat cheeks, but thick across and weighty) and a 150 year old Canadian-made 5 1/4 lb'er with very pronounced cheeks at the centerline. When you want to make firewood it's not cutting/slicing ability you seek but any and all physics that optimize the 'cleaving apart' of wood. And not getting the blade stuck or hopelessly buried while trying to do so.

 

[BG_Farmer]

Peg tooth crosscut saw for dry wood. They are often cheaper because the pattern isn't as sexy as others, but you can maintain easily.

Depending on size, axe, maul or sledge with wedges for splits. 8# maul and wedge would be best bang for buck, probably. I split 1/4 cord or so of redoak this afternoon, and just for fun I mainly used 3.5# jersey. Working around the edges, I was able to split some pretty good sized rounds (14-18") with just the axe, only using the wedges when I got stuck. I chopped off the fork with the same axe before I got out the chainsaw, very little problem. It was a standing dead tree that fell in pasture, so dried pretty good except at base.

 

[Square_peg]

For that kind of wood you're really better off with a saw. A one-man 'champion' or 'tuttle' tooth saw would be best for hard wood. But you might be surprised what you can do with a Silky folding saw. I especially recommend the fine tooth blades for cutting dry hard wood. Check out either the Silky Big Boy or the 270mm saw depending on how big of stuff you're cutting.

If you want to stay with an axe select one with a narrow bit (measured top to bottom) for cutting dry hard wood. This gives you more psi at the point of impact. A Dayton isn't a bad choice. But if you can find something like a Baltimore Kentucky or Carolina pattern then those would be good choices. Another good narrow bit axe choice is a Puget Sound falling axe pattern. This is a large heavy (4 pound) double bit with the narrow bit you want for cutting hard wood. Plus is has a second bit to go to if your first bit dulls.

 

[Square_peg]

I still think a Silky Big Boy with the fine tooth (11tpi) blade is your best bet.

http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws/Folding-Straight_2/Silkys-BIGBOY-360mm-Fine-Teeth

 

[Operator1975]

For that kind of wood you're really better off with a saw. A one-man 'champion' or 'tuttle' tooth saw would be best for hard wood. But you might be surprised what you can do with a Silky folding saw. I especially recommend the fine tooth blades for cutting dry hard wood. Check out either the Silky Big Boy or the 270mm saw depending on how big of stuff you're cutting.

If you want to stay with an axe select one with a narrow bit (measured top to bottom) for cutting dry hard wood. This gives you more psi at the point of impact. A Dayton isn't a bad choice. But if you can find something like a Baltimore Kentucky or Carolina pattern then those would be good choices. Another good narrow bit axe choice is a Puget Sound falling axe pattern. This is a large heavy (4 pound) double bit with the narrow bit you want for cutting hard wood. Plus is has a second bit to go to if your first bit dulls.

Pretty much nailed it right here.

Good luck! Let us know what you end up doing.

 

[thefirstsuspect]

SC-100, how do I evaluate "high centerline"?
First suspect, I looked for a 4Lb husqvarna axe and couldn't find one. However, Helko has one.
Everybody else, so what's better, new CT and Helko or old vintage, and which ole vintage?

My bad, I thought husqvarna had a felling axe. As far as vintage axes go I would look on ebay for a 3.5 pound plumb felling axe, or if you want something super nice try and find a sager chemical. I dont know how strong you are, but a 4 or 5 pound axe will where most guys guys out fast so I would suggest getting a 3.5 pounder on a 32'' handle and a 8 pound maul. A one man saw wouldn't be a bad idea either, that is if you can find one.

 

[vcbvcbvcb]

OK, I'm a little confused. I thought hollow cheeks were European and good for softwood, and straight cheeks were American and good for hardwood, no?

 

[Hacked]

OK, I'm a little confused. I thought hollow cheeks were European and good for softwood, and straight cheeks were American and good for hardwood, no?

Exact opposite, north America has the hardwoods and so axes made here were adapted to work better with them.

American axes with high centerlines or convex cheeks.

Euro style axe with flat cheeks.

 

[vcbvcbvcb]

I have a Silky Katanaboy with Ex-large teeth. I bought it before I understood that large teeth = softwood. I'll look into if a Bigboy medium or fine tooth blade fits. I looked at EBay for a saw and the choices are confounding. Thanks for the advice.

 

[vcbvcbvcb]

Last question, anybody know about vintage Fulton axes?

 

[Square_peg]

They were Sears own brand and main axe line from before 1900 up to 1928 when they bought the Craftsman name and made that their main line. They continued to sell Fultons into the 1940's but they became a second line axe. The Fulton 'Razor Blade' axes are supposed to have very high carbon steel bits. I'd like to get one.

 

[vcbvcbvcb]

Do they have "Razor Blade" printed on them?

 

[Axe nut]

There is no felling by a private citizen in my area. The oak and pine are cut by the government and left in place in 4'-8' logs. No vehicle access right at the wood. I chop the 8' pieces into into 4' and carry them back to the van. A lot of the wood is seasoned from last year. Last weekend I brought a 4lb axe (total weight) and a smaller husqvarna multipurpose axe. I sharpened both with a file, then lansky puck, then sandpaper before setting out. They both pretty much bounced off the wood. I'm thinking about getting a big Helko axe with a 3.5lb head, or putting together a large vintage axe. Splitting is done at home with a large Fiskers splitting axe, which I will probably replace with a real splitting maul. It's truly a splitting axe and not a maul.

For that I'd probably grab my rafting axe to split them and one of my full size plumbs to buck the logs