Best Axe for wood splitting

Square_peg said:
Hopefully he got the info he needed.
Click to expand...
Flighty impulsive types increasingly abound on the Internet. Talk is cheap; matter of fact it's increasingly become 'free', now matter how valuable or experienced. When answers aren't forthcoming within a 5-7 minute attention window 'will o the wisp' folks move on to something else. Notice however that there are lots of naive forum members willing to devote or voice their expert/personal opinion despite there being no feedback from the actual OP. Guilty as charged: I'm one of them. We've all got to learn to await 'a proper human response' before wasting time 'chattering amongst ourselves and merely talking to the wall' in an otherwise dead-end thread.
 
Howdy All;

Used to do the majority of my limbing (aka "chasing"), with the chain saw.
Splitting was done with a double-bitted axe. Used to go around a 3'X15" oak
biscuit like eating a cinnamon roll. Just go in about 6-8" and the pieces just
"pop' off. Only takes a few minutes and on to the next biscuit ...

hank
 
David Martin, Howdy;

Worked for me well both with White oak in Md. when I lived there
and White and Red oak as well as Hickory and Ash after I'd moved
to SE Ohio. Now these were seasoned biscuits not fresh cut.
Give it a try ya might like the results

hank
 
Some specimens within each oak species will split like an acorn, (pun intended) others not so.

I had a nice smooth, straight, 28" white oak die a few years back, I cut it firewood. I figured it would split easily with an axe or maul, but I wound up having to make a plunge cut on top of the rounds with the tip of the chainsaw to even get the wedges to start! It's pretty common for the base rounds of a white oak to be on the tough side, but I had to use wedges the full length of that tree!
 
quinton said:
Some specimens within each oak species will split like an acorn, (pun intended) others not so.

I had a nice smooth, straight, 28" white oak die a few years back, I cut it firewood. I figured it would split easily with an axe or maul, but I wound up having to make a plunge cut on top of the rounds with the tip of the chainsaw to even get the wedges to start! It's pretty common for the base rounds of a white oak to be on the tough side, but I had to use wedges the full length of that tree!
Click to expand...

Funny how I never thought much about this...only when splitting.
As long as I remember my splitting wood years, white oak has notoriously and always bounced the bit. Bit of the axe, bit of the maul, bit of the wedge.
...yet I always try, like this is the time I have it, thinner bit or not, always BOUNCE.
I will work it in from the edge of the round after I have tried yet again.
I most certainly will keep trying, not sure why really, kinda like an old dog I just keep at it.
Beautiful handle you carved the other day sir! One lucky Plumb:cool:
 
White oak is far less difficult to split than my Emory. I've noticed it matters a lot if it grew in a wetter climate. My oak is a real man handling job to split no matter if dead for 20 years or 2. DM
 
quinton said:
Some specimens within each oak species will split like an acorn, (pun intended) others not so.

I had a nice smooth, straight, 28" white oak die a few years back, I cut it firewood. I figured it would split easily with an axe or maul, but I wound up having to make a plunge cut on top of the rounds with the tip of the chainsaw to even get the wedges to start! It's pretty common for the base rounds of a white oak to be on the tough side, but I had to use wedges the full length of that tree!
Click to expand...

Miller '72 said:
As long as I remember my splitting wood years, white oak has notoriously and always bounced the bit. Bit of the axe, bit of the maul, bit of the wedge.
...yet I always try, like this is the time I have it, thinner bit or not, always BOUNCE.
Click to expand...

Try putting a slightly concave bevel on the bit of your wedge. It makes them sticky just like a concave beveled axe is sticky. Then start 'em with a single jack. This is what I do with the toughest woods.

Further reading:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/splitting-wedge-regrind.1519873/#post-17473077
 
Miller '72 said:
Funny how I never thought much about this...only when splitting.
As long as I remember my splitting wood years, white oak has notoriously and always bounced the bit. Bit of the axe, bit of the maul, bit of the wedge.
...yet I always try, like this is the time I have it, thinner bit or not, always BOUNCE.
I will work it in from the edge of the round after I have tried yet again.
I most certainly will keep trying, not sure why really, kinda like an old dog I just keep at it.
Beautiful handle you carved the other day sir! One lucky Plumb:cool:
Click to expand...
Thanks again, Miller!
 
Billy02 said:
I am not looking for something expensive or very pro, i have found this https://swordsswords.com/zed-killer-tactical-tomahawk-axe.html and i think it will work best for me. not too costly and i think it will be easier to use.
Click to expand...
I would be very suspect of the aluminum handle on that tool. Frankly, I think you'd be better off with a standard camp hatchet. Sears sells one that is made in USA by Vaughan out of 1080 steel for about $20. Harbor Freight sells a Chinese made verson for about $11. I think either would easily outperfom the one you're considering now.

The hatchet may not look as cool as the hawk you're looking at but it would outperform it immeasurably.
 
Howdy All;

I'm not sure that I expressed myself clearly earlier when I mentioned that I go
around a 'biscuit' like eating a cinnamon roll.
I do not attack it across the diameter nor attempt to divide it like an Apple pie,
rather I cut along the annual lines about 6-8 inches from the outer edge then try
to stay parallel as I spiral inwards.

hank
 
Last edited:
Square_peg said:
I would be very suspect of the aluminum handle on that tool. Frankly, I think you'd be better off with a standard camp hatchet. Sears sells one that is made in USA by Vaughan out of 1080 steel for about $20. Harbor Freight sells a Chinese made verson for about $11. I think either would easily outperfom the one you're considering now.

The hatchet may not look as cool as the hawk you're looking at but it would outperform it immeasurably.
Click to expand...
But about about the zombies!?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top