34 views and no one will touch this!
First let me say I don't do stainless. I have cut stainless with my bandsaw, but not that thick. This is what I use and what I recommend for most steels, as far as great bandsaw blade.
Lenox Diemaster 2 Bandsaw blades by Lenox
Width 500, Thickness .020, TPI 18. I purchased two and I am still using the first one. I purchased some prior too the Lennox Diemaster from ENCO (their brand) and one of them made it about 2 1/2 minutes the other lasted a week.
Having said all that I do believe there is a break in period for any blade saw blade. In other word when first starting with a new bandsaw blade I let it heat up and cool down a few cycles before really going to town on it! You need to let the blade do the cutting, (don't force it). That only results in overheating and binding both of which will strip the teeth of one and then it all over.
Even after setting up my bandsaw,
The bandsaw has been relocated to a table dedicated for its use. The new table has a different power set-up so no cords over the front to the foot switch and keeps that dust further from the assembly area!
Now on top of all the information I have given you I would recommend this.
I would not cut the stainless with a bandsaw at all. Not as thick as you are talking.
In fact I don't usually cut thick 3/16" and above, carbon blade profiles with a bandsaw. First of all I started cutting my profiles with a right angle grinder and a metal cutting blade, one it is quicker on the thick stuff.
Some are going to say a right angle grinder is dangerous. However if you
always clamp your work tightly, and
don't force the blade. If you do force or bind the blade they will
explode and I think telling you safety first is a given when you step into the shop. Saftey glasses and hearing protection as well as breathing protection (dust mask at minimum and respirator is best). If you take it slow and leave a little extra around the profile you can cut of the profile. Then dress down to the line with a grinder, that way you can cool often while bringing the profile right down to where you want it.
I will add this disclaimer I use to do construction and the use of a right angle grinder has become second nature to me. If I take my time I can usually bring the cut down to near profile with out any mistakes. This has been a learned skill, I have had some bad experiences with a right angle grinder but I learned what not to do with each of those experiences. I think that is why so many are afraid of a right angle grinder as they can and will get away from you in a heart beat if you loose concentration on what you are doing!
I have found tight curves do not cut well on a bandsaw and will tear up a bandsaw blade. I often rough them in and trim up with a dremel or a sanding drum.
Well, I hope you don't feel this a rambling response and at least some of this information helps you in your quest for what to use cutting your chosen steel!
