Best bang for the buck drill press - I could use a good recommendation.

If you are looking for heavy duty machines you might consider searching the internet for government surplus sites in your state. They may have something you could use.
 
Few days late but I agree wit looking for used. I bought a 1955 Craftsman with the original cast iron table for $75. Rewired the motor, replaced the belt and cleaned it up and it should last another 65 years.
 
I just made the same decision a couple months ago. I wanted a drill press that didn't wander, didn't have stupid run out but had variable speed.

Precision Matthews bench top mill pm25 hands down one of the best value machines I have ever purchased. I wish I had known about them years ago.
https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-25mv/

This is nothing like a Grizzly, Jet, Delta or HF mini mill even though they maybe somewhat similar in appearance.
 
tmickley said:
I just made the same decision a couple months ago. I wanted a drill press that didn't wander, didn't have stupid run out but had variable speed.

Precision Matthews bench top mill pm25 hands down one of the best value machines I have ever purchased. I wish I had known about them years ago.
https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-25mv/

This is nothing like a Grizzly, Jet, Delta or HF mini mill even though they maybe somewhat similar in appearance.
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I have been looking at this too. What accessories did you get with it? Did you go with the DRO? I felt like the expense of the DRO was way more than a DIY solution but if it is all done I dont have to mess with it.
 
I have a Precision Matthews (PM-30MV) as well and am very happy with it so far. The DRO is expensive compared to the DIY kits, but that depends a little bit on how much value you put on your time. Like you said, you don't have to mess with it and it is neatly installed for you. The one thing that would change that equation for me is if the DIY solution was lower profile. On my machine, I lose about 1.5" of Y travel to the DRO. I would definitely go with a DIY solution if I could limit the loss to 3/4". I have the power feed on the X axis and really love it. I get a nicer surface finish then I get by hand cranking for face milling, but the best thing is the little red button that you press to move the table at high speed. I use the power feed much more than I had thought I would.
 
probrwr said:
I have been looking at this too. What accessories did you get with it? Did you go with the DRO? I felt like the expense of the DRO was way more than a DIY solution but if it is all done I dont have to mess with it.
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I got the stand the optional DRO - which I really haven't used. Nothing has come up to use it yet. I have a full sized mill with DRO also so it probably won't get used much. It has a built in Z DRO which I have used several times for drilling or light milling to depth and that is probably all I really wanted. I would not get the optional DRO if I did it over. I also got the "accurate" keyless chuck and it's worth it. You will need to use a spanner wrench to tighten it so the key is replaced by a spanner wrench. Still it's slightly faster than a key and the chuck is quite nice.
 
tmickley said:
I got the stand the optional DRO - which I really haven't used. Nothing has come up to use it yet. I have a full sized mill with DRO also so it probably won't get used much. It has a built in Z DRO which I have used several times for drilling or light milling to depth and that is probably all I really wanted. I would not get the optional DRO if I did it over. I also got the "accurate" keyless chuck and it's worth it. You will need to use a spanner wrench to tighten it so the key is replaced by a spanner wrench. Still it's slightly faster than a key and the chuck is quite nice.
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Thanks! I dont have any of the equipment and have been putting things in and out of my cart for a while. Debating about the stand but it may make sense. Have the r-8 collet set (does the ultra precision make that much difference?), the clamping set and the basic vise.

I have done some machining in the past but mostly on lathes. The mill world is a new thing to me.
 
Changing the R8 collets is tedious. I use the hand chuck for light milling (g10 and micarta). If was milling metal, I would switch to the collet. a good chuck makes a difference so I went with the "ultra precision" one. The stand is low. I sit in a chair when using it but bench space was limited so I went with the stand.
 
probrwr said:
Thanks! I dont have any of the equipment and have been putting things in and out of my cart for a while. Debating about the stand but it may make sense. Have the r-8 collet set (does the ultra precision make that much difference?), the clamping set and the basic vise.

I have done some machining in the past but mostly on lathes. The mill world is a new thing to me.
Click to expand...
Think of the Milling Machine as a VERTICAL Lathe...The Lathe works primarily on Round Stock rotating in the Chuck you feed your Tooling into the Material on the Horizontal Plane The tooling is stationary and the Stock Revolves...The Mill has the Stock Stationary on the X-Y axis and the Tooling Rotates in the Quill and is Fed Downward as it Rotates which allows you to Machine Parts that are Square or Rectangular...Basically the Same Principle of material removal of different shaped stock.
 
kvaughn said:
I have one of the old models as shown on FB but a bench model. It's an Atlas. Real tank in great shape with 0 slop in the chuck. Two people or a dolly to move it. Easy to work on and change speeds/pulleys. I rescued it out an old house demo. Probably from the '40's.
I'm downsizing to move and don't really need it anymore
If anybody is within driving distance of west central CT and wants to load it, its yours.--KV
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Is the Atlas still available?
 
Well,

I needed a new drill press as my Delta DP-350 is dying a slow death. I ended up buying a LMS 3990 Mini Mill. Considerations for weight and moving it into my hard to access basement preclude the 25V I really want so that will have to wait for a new house and better shop space.

Thanks for the info on how to spend 5 times more money! :)
 
Busto said:
Think of the Milling Machine as a VERTICAL Lathe...The Lathe works primarily on Round Stock rotating in the Chuck you feed your Tooling into the Material on the Horizontal Plane The tooling is stationary and the Stock Revolves...The Mill has the Stock Stationary on the X-Y axis and the Tooling Rotates in the Quill and is Fed Downward as it Rotates which allows you to Machine Parts that are Square or Rectangular...Basically the Same Principle of material removal of different shaped stock.
Click to expand...

I probably should have said I have built 4 CNC routers in the past and currently have one operating....
 
Well.... apparently LMS oversold. I cancelled my order as it would not be in until after April 21st and my new PM-25MV is scheduled to be delivered today.
 
Got a PM-25MV yesterday. I'm still setting it up, but it seems to be a good machine for what I need. Still have my old drill press, but figured a mill would be handy to have as well. Looking forward to running it once things are finished. Drill press is a necessary tool for knife making, a mill is just a heavier drill press with better precision & more features.
 
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