Best Bowie Steel?

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Feb 1, 2004
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Well, you certainly see a good mix of different steels on the market for bowie-styled blades. Considering the punishment a bowie endures......brush clearing, bone cutting, skinning, and such......it needs to not only hold an edge well, but be quite resistant to shock. I've been inpressed with the steel used in Swamp Rat's blades, as well as CS's Carbon V. Opinions? Also, what are your thoughts on using M2 in these blades?
 
Interesting question. I've seen bowies made from forged 1095, forged 1084, ATS-34, 5160, 440C and M-2 and really don't know which is best! I'll be watching with you for some knowledgeable input.:)
 
I really like AUS-8A for bowie steel. I have a Cold Steel Bush Ranger and a Blackjack Grunt. AUS-8A is easy to sharpen and the steel also has vanandium in it. Vanandium being an element added to the alloy to help with impact resistance.
 
First, there really is no 'best' steel for any purpose or any size blade. Second, you need to decide if you need a high chromium (stainless) alloy for your intended use and level of care or if you would prefer the (normally) greater toughness of a low chromium steel with it's inherent tendency to stain and rust. Third, forged blades made with very simple carbon steels (e.g. 1084) with differential temper have been used successfuly in large blades for decades, and if produced by a smith with skill will rival any of the newer high alloy steels for both edge holding and toughness.

Stock removal blades from some of the newer super steels like S30V are outstanding performers in large all-hard blades. I would avoid high chromium steels like 440C and ATS-34 in big blades that will be used for chopping, but with the right heat treatment these steels will also make a fine blade that will chop and hold a fine edge.

It really comes down to your personal preferences and the skills of the maker (custom or production). Having lots of choices makes life more interesting, but don't be convinced by "this is the BEST steel" arguments. I think there is entirely too much emphasis on the choice of steel, and not enough attention paid to more important factors like edge geometry and heat treatment.

Para
 
I haven't seen M-2 being used, though I am sure that some makers have used this steel. The reason for this may be the large amounts of tungsten and vanadium in this steel. It is probably not the easiest steel to forge. There would be no trouble using M-2 if the blade is produced using the stock removal method.

The steels that I see used the most for forged bowies are 1084, 1095, L6, W1, W2, O1, 5160, 52100. For stock removal I see 5160, O1, A2, CPM 3V and in stainless, 440C and ATS-34 and a few in CPM S30V.

Lately, I have been seeing quite a few bowies that have blades made from L6 bainite. This is going to be about as tough a steel as you are likely to find, but somehow I doubt that it will hold an edge as well as the other steels mentioned above.
 
Man, I feel like this was ust discussed elsewhere. Oh well, here is my take on it.

First is your price range. I would say that most of the carbon steels make good bowie knife steel, since they have more toughness than stainless steels. So steels like A-2, 52100, 50100b (Becker), cpm3V, 5160 are awesome for large knife applications.

If you go with Stainless, I agree that AUS8A is good, I think Cliff wronte about it favorable as well. CpmS30V is also good. 440C is almost as tough as S30V and is much more available. ATS34 is lower on the Toughness scale and of course D-2 is always a great semi stainless steel.

But Para said it well, the mfg'r and heat treatment process are of utmost importance, maybe more so than the steel itself.
 
Of the steels mentioned, CPM 3V has by far the best combination of toughness and edge holding.





- Frank
 
And if you are like me and your bowies have to be forged, there is at least one bladesmith that forges CPM 3V. Most people don't see any advantage to forging this steel, but there is no disadvantage either.
 
Originally posted by Keith Montgomery
And if you are like me and your bowies have to be forged, there is at least one bladesmith that forges CPM 3V. Most people don't see any advantage to forging this steel, but there is no disadvantage either.

Which ones forge 3V and has there been a notable difference in performance. I would think that forging would produce even a small increase in strength over stock removal. I guess maybe a heavier power assisted hammer is needed for forging.
 
Keith,
Where have you been seeing all these L6 Bainite Bowies? I've been wanting to find one (well, actually make one) for quite a while so I could evaluate its performance for myself. Have you gotten to try them out yourself to evaluate their edge holding? I always hear that bainite gives up a bit of wear resistance type edge holding, but offers greater resistance to chipping and rolling. My Bowies have never gotten dull from slicing, but I broke my first one in half, and my newer one has several chips and nicks missing from the edge already.
 
MicroAlign :

......brush clearing, bone cutting, skinning, and such......

[M2]

That would be one of the worst choices, better than most stainless steels, but really poor compared to something like L6 as Harley suggested.

-Cliff
 
On a forged blade, I like good old carbon steel. Something like 1084(if you can find the clean stuff), L6, W2, or even O1. Stock removal, give me CPM3V anytime.
 
If a typical bowie has a stock of 1/4", it really makes no difference. Say this, because on many tests from our national knife magazin, knifes in that size took the same bending force (500N lateral) without breaking. In other words, in that size (1/4") strength maybe is more important than toughness.

But, i would hardly consider "Bowie" to modern steels like ATS34 o that kind. So carbon should be the choice, best with a little alloy of tungsten and a little chromium.
 
Blop :

If a typical bowie has a stock of 1/4", it really makes no difference. Say this, because on many tests from our national knife magazin, knifes in that size took the same bending force (500N lateral) without breaking.

The strength of stainless steels is indeed very high, however the ductility is low as is the impact toughness, two very critical properties for large knives which can see heavy impacts.

-Cliff
 
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