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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Best budget bushcraft knife
- Thread starter Etandee
- Start date
afishhunter
Basic Member
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- Oct 21, 2014
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- 14,437
Buck 110 and I'll give another "second" for the Mora Classic 1 nomination.1
If you are mainly going to be doing whittling, get a 3 blade "Split-Back Whittler" pattern, a Congress, or a Stockman.
The (BTI) Schrade-Imperial Congress can be had new for under $10. You'll probably want to re-profile and thin the edges though.
If you're whittling more than pointy sticks and tent stakes, having more than one blade profile will come in might handy.
If you are mainly going to be doing whittling, get a 3 blade "Split-Back Whittler" pattern, a Congress, or a Stockman.
The (BTI) Schrade-Imperial Congress can be had new for under $10. You'll probably want to re-profile and thin the edges though.
If you're whittling more than pointy sticks and tent stakes, having more than one blade profile will come in might handy.
I hate to keep repeating but a Mora is my choice too. I'd recommend the companion or basic. $35 should get you 3 moras to choose from. Or you could a kansbol or bushcraft black model. I have no personal experience with those 2 though.
Of the folders listed, the RAT 1 is my woods carry, but not really a whittler.
I really can't recommend a Mora enough. I was hesitant to try one for a long time and thought they looked cheap and gimmicky and couldnt believe that so many people liked them. I really thought that they were overhyped. I could not have been more wrong. They aren't sexy, but they are inexpensive and reliable. I cant imagine not owning one. I have several knives, but my moras are some of my most used. Just fantastic as an intro woods knife.
When you are ready to upgrade to something more expensive you can keep the mora as a loaner for a friend, gift it away or stash it in an emergency bag.
Of the folders listed, the RAT 1 is my woods carry, but not really a whittler.
I really can't recommend a Mora enough. I was hesitant to try one for a long time and thought they looked cheap and gimmicky and couldnt believe that so many people liked them. I really thought that they were overhyped. I could not have been more wrong. They aren't sexy, but they are inexpensive and reliable. I cant imagine not owning one. I have several knives, but my moras are some of my most used. Just fantastic as an intro woods knife.
When you are ready to upgrade to something more expensive you can keep the mora as a loaner for a friend, gift it away or stash it in an emergency bag.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
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- 19,385
As much as I don't care for Mora's in general, that is what I would recommend in this situation. I generally just want something a little "better" or more pleasing to my knife self than a Mora.
If you like the Buck 110, I feel sure it would work out for you. I believe the current Schrade 250T would also work well and it has two blades and about the same size as the Buck. I own the USA version (which cost less than your budget) and it was my go to woods knife for years. But I really don't do whittling.... I just find it kind of boring unless I am trying to make something in particular.
If you like the Buck 110, I feel sure it would work out for you. I believe the current Schrade 250T would also work well and it has two blades and about the same size as the Buck. I own the USA version (which cost less than your budget) and it was my go to woods knife for years. But I really don't do whittling.... I just find it kind of boring unless I am trying to make something in particular.
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A Mora will do everything you need it to, and is dirt cheap. But, for the sake of variety, you can get a Condor Terrasaur for about $40 (with a full tang that you don't get on a cheap Mora).
Fixed Blade: Mora Companion
Folder: Opinel #10 Inox
Longer version...
Mors Kochanski, the guy who wrote the book that brought the term "bushcraft" to be what it is today, was pretty clear about the need for a bushcraft knife to be fixed blade to do the things he described. He often referred to a knife as a sharpened pry bar with which one works wood.
https://www.morskochanski.com/books
As others have noted, the Mora Companion is an insanely good bushcrafting knife.
This said, I don't think "bushcraft" is the same as "general purpose knife for being in the woods". In particular, I don't think a fixed blade is essential, particularly if you limit fire making to making shavings (and give up on splitting wood with a knife) and doubly if you rely on modern backpacking equipment for shelter and cooking.
There are several qualities that I think make sense to focus on from a "bushcrafting" point of view to carry over to a folding knife if you want to go that route.
1) Thick, hand filling grip to give good control when making shavings
2) Palm width blade (about 3.5 to 4")
3) No sharpening choil to allow full use of the blade while making precise cuts with wood
4) Handle that allows for multiple grips including choking up on the blade
Of the knives you listed, the Buck 110 ticks all of those boxes. If you want to save some $s and ounces and are willing to accept a bit less durability, you can get the plastic framed LT version at *Mart for under $20. The 110 is a hunting knive first and foremost. In particular, it's easy to overstress the delicate tip compared to even the Companion. But the wide handle and lack of choil make it pleasant for long wood working sessions. The 112 is pretty, but the handle shape interferes with some hand positions and the blade length can be limiting.
Another inexpensive knife you might consider is the Opinel #9 or #10. They require some work to waterproof them (heat wax into the pivot with a heat gun) but they are very light and more durable than the 110 under hard use. I have no hesitation batonning the #10 though any wood the blade will span (so long as the lock ring is left disengaged).
Folder: Opinel #10 Inox
Longer version...
Mors Kochanski, the guy who wrote the book that brought the term "bushcraft" to be what it is today, was pretty clear about the need for a bushcraft knife to be fixed blade to do the things he described. He often referred to a knife as a sharpened pry bar with which one works wood.
https://www.morskochanski.com/books
As others have noted, the Mora Companion is an insanely good bushcrafting knife.
This said, I don't think "bushcraft" is the same as "general purpose knife for being in the woods". In particular, I don't think a fixed blade is essential, particularly if you limit fire making to making shavings (and give up on splitting wood with a knife) and doubly if you rely on modern backpacking equipment for shelter and cooking.
There are several qualities that I think make sense to focus on from a "bushcrafting" point of view to carry over to a folding knife if you want to go that route.
1) Thick, hand filling grip to give good control when making shavings
2) Palm width blade (about 3.5 to 4")
3) No sharpening choil to allow full use of the blade while making precise cuts with wood
4) Handle that allows for multiple grips including choking up on the blade
Of the knives you listed, the Buck 110 ticks all of those boxes. If you want to save some $s and ounces and are willing to accept a bit less durability, you can get the plastic framed LT version at *Mart for under $20. The 110 is a hunting knive first and foremost. In particular, it's easy to overstress the delicate tip compared to even the Companion. But the wide handle and lack of choil make it pleasant for long wood working sessions. The 112 is pretty, but the handle shape interferes with some hand positions and the blade length can be limiting.
Another inexpensive knife you might consider is the Opinel #9 or #10. They require some work to waterproof them (heat wax into the pivot with a heat gun) but they are very light and more durable than the 110 under hard use. I have no hesitation batonning the #10 though any wood the blade will span (so long as the lock ring is left disengaged).