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Best Combat Knives Available Today?
- Thread starter drpolc
- Start date
- Joined
- May 23, 2004
- Messages
- 1,496
American Tanto blade style is fine for it and a lot of people in the military have been using them over the past 10+ years. On forums there is a strong disregard for the blade style but it works out very good for average Joe. Just like with serrations - when you have a slightly dull blade from actually using your knife on a regular basis you are going to get a better chance for a cut with a point/points initiating the cut. The thicker tip than most clip or drop point style blades also stands a better chance to survive dumb stuff if you have to get something critical done and improvise with it.
Stabbing ability isn't even a real bonus with the American Tanto blade style/shape but its been repeated a billion times, probably starting from guys watching Cold Steel Proof videos. Durability definitely is.
Stabbing ability isn't even a real bonus with the American Tanto blade style/shape but its been repeated a billion times, probably starting from guys watching Cold Steel Proof videos. Durability definitely is.
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2001
- Messages
- 770
If I was deploying to a tax-free zone tomorrow, as I have three times before, and I was serving in an Infantry role, my choice would be the Smoke Jumper by TOPS put into a Spec Ops Brand Combat Master sheath.
The only part that makes me sad is that I discovered this knife AFTER my deployment days were over.
-Stan
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2011
- Messages
- 3,236
The Gerber LHR is a reasonably priced and tested knife. The traditional K-bar has proven itself over and over. A hard use knife will probably get used quite a bit more than "fighting knife". Get one of each. You will come out cheaper, have less chance of an expensive blade mysteriously disappearing, and probably die of old age before both are worn out.
If you can afford a $250-$1000 knife you are probably not in the military.
If you can afford a $250-$1000 knife you are probably not in the military.
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2010
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- Joined
- May 15, 2011
- Messages
- 29
I saw a post above that distinguished between a combat knife and a combat-utility knife. I make the same distinction using the terminology "combat knife" versus "fighter" as do a lot of high end knife makers who work in this area. For combat knife we generally mean something that is primarily used as a camping/hunting/utility tool and secondarily used as a weapon. For a pure fighter, we mean something that you would never use for, say, prying open a crate or box. It would be fast so you can actually participate in knife-vs-knife fighting and not be too slow when blocking, and might be double edged which can limit your ability to baton. You might forgo a glass breaker in favor of being able to flip easily to a reverse grip. You might prefer tactical bolsters to hold the knife in place in your hand when your hand or glove is bloody.
I saw a great video on this forum about a small 4 1/2" blade knife an ex-soldier liked a lot as a combat knife that was lightweight and would fit conveniently on his vest. Like a pry-bar police tanto I designed, of design necessity the point of balance was back into the handle rather than at the front bolster even after the skilled custom maker did the tricks. I can flip my tanto, but for optimal flipping you generally want a point of balance at the front bolster.
I was so enthused with the recommendation of one of the knives in this thread I went out and bought it. While it was a great camping knife and high value proposition, the handle and rubber like handle material are such that a normal to large sized handed man cannot flip the knife to a reverse grip and back with any degree of speed (if at all). That disqualifies the knife for hand to hand combat against a semper paribus opponent as it is not either a long-bladed sub-hilt or 12" bowie intended to fight from only one direction and long enough to do so. Further, the point of balance was too far forward to move the knife quickly which means if you have to actually block an opponent who has a knife you are going to be too slow. While this could be a great "combat knife" if you never actually have to fight knife vs knife versus an opponent with the same training as you and a knife designed to accomodate fighting, I think it is a bad choice if the intention is to actually ever fight with the knife (not the case for individuals at less specialized military levels of training). Plus, the coating it used will generate too much friction for an easy penetration.
You can produce a knife with the same length and strength that is balanced for fighting and still can serve as a rough utility knife -- I have one by Chris Reeve. Of course, it costs about $150 more by the time you are done buying a spec ops sheath for the other knife.
There are a number of more highly trained military personnel who actually use their knives to fight with, including sentry removal. Their combat knives need to actually be usable for fighting as well as prying.
I saw a great video on this forum about a small 4 1/2" blade knife an ex-soldier liked a lot as a combat knife that was lightweight and would fit conveniently on his vest. Like a pry-bar police tanto I designed, of design necessity the point of balance was back into the handle rather than at the front bolster even after the skilled custom maker did the tricks. I can flip my tanto, but for optimal flipping you generally want a point of balance at the front bolster.
I was so enthused with the recommendation of one of the knives in this thread I went out and bought it. While it was a great camping knife and high value proposition, the handle and rubber like handle material are such that a normal to large sized handed man cannot flip the knife to a reverse grip and back with any degree of speed (if at all). That disqualifies the knife for hand to hand combat against a semper paribus opponent as it is not either a long-bladed sub-hilt or 12" bowie intended to fight from only one direction and long enough to do so. Further, the point of balance was too far forward to move the knife quickly which means if you have to actually block an opponent who has a knife you are going to be too slow. While this could be a great "combat knife" if you never actually have to fight knife vs knife versus an opponent with the same training as you and a knife designed to accomodate fighting, I think it is a bad choice if the intention is to actually ever fight with the knife (not the case for individuals at less specialized military levels of training). Plus, the coating it used will generate too much friction for an easy penetration.
You can produce a knife with the same length and strength that is balanced for fighting and still can serve as a rough utility knife -- I have one by Chris Reeve. Of course, it costs about $150 more by the time you are done buying a spec ops sheath for the other knife.
There are a number of more highly trained military personnel who actually use their knives to fight with, including sentry removal. Their combat knives need to actually be usable for fighting as well as prying.
Becker BK7 (3/16" thick) or BK2 if you want 1/4" thick.
Ontario Ranger Bush Series RD6 (3/16") or Ranger Ready Deployment RD6 (1/4")
ESSE 5 (1/4" thick)
Those i listed are excellent knives that will take a friggin beatin & ask for more. Made in the USA. At working mans prices. You may want a custom sheath for the first 3 though.
Ontario Ranger Bush Series RD6 (3/16") or Ranger Ready Deployment RD6 (1/4")
ESSE 5 (1/4" thick)
Those i listed are excellent knives that will take a friggin beatin & ask for more. Made in the USA. At working mans prices. You may want a custom sheath for the first 3 though.