Best D2 steel finish?

[crazydad42]

What is the best finish for D2 steel and how do I do it? From what I understand it doesn't polish well.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Sand to 400/800 grit and either quit there or use a Scotch-brite belt to give a satin finish.

 

[james terrio]

Yup, satin finish, either by hand or by belt. There's not much point going above 600 grit, it will just look worse and worse as the "orange peel" look gets easier to see. Media-blasting is a big no-no, that just makes it rust about a million percent faster.

 

[AVigil]

Media-blasting is a big no-no, that just makes it rust about a million percent faster.

Actually if you glass bead blast it and then apply a wax or oil it helps keep it from rusting. All the indents actually hold onto the oil.

Good example is look at an hard use Phill Hartsfield blade and you will see very little rust on them. His finish was rough and then bead blasted. And that is in A2 which is rust far easier then D2

 

[james terrio]

Sure... and wax or oil over a mirror finish would protect it much better. That's actually not at all helpful when it comes to comparisons between finishes.

I do not "trust" clients to wax or oil my blades. I test them as bare steel. And (all other factors being equal) media-blasted steel is by far the quickest to corrode.

 

[AVigil]

Sure mirror finish is the best at corrosion resistance not many want the finish anymore and oil does not stay on it well with use and as for D2 mirror finish is out of the question.

If they can keep their guns oiled...then they can keep their knives that way as well.

 

[rickmenefee]

If you want a ground finish. A cork with green chrome makes the most durable.

 

[elementfe]

I enjoy seeing the orange peel, and many of my customers agree that being able to see the crystalline structure of a useful steel is kind of cool, but it's sure not a look for everyone.
The green chrome finish is so far very resistant to staining in my kitchen, lime juice and salt overnight didn't touch it...but I sure wouldn't ever claim that it's a "mirror finish."
I'm not making these knives for discerning collectors, though, just as every day working knives.

 

[Hengelo_77]

I've finished only one D2 knife.
I etched it in FeCl3 and it gave it a realy attractive and matt dark gray

 

[james terrio]

If they can keep their guns oiled...then they can keep their knives that way as well.

One would think so... however, many customers simply won't oil or wax their blades for various reasons. That's not just a question of laziness, either... many hunters/fishermen/chefs don't want any foreign material contaminating their food/meat etc. Even with "food safe" products, many feel they leave an unpleasant taste.

I've finished only one D2 knife.
I etched it in FeCl3 and it gave it a realy attractive and matt dark gray

Etching and passivation can be very helpful for any style of blade finish. :thumbup:

 

[Rhinoknives1]

I do the 400 grit and then Scotchbrite finish on CPM-D2 for field and culinary and also don't count on customers using wax or oil for the same reasons Terrio stated. One reason I will add why I don't do a blast finish on Tool Steels is many store their knives in the sheath and leather draws moisture on to the steel.

 

[AVigil]

Storing a knife in a sheath will aid in corrosion not matter what finish it on the blade.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Storing a knife in a sheath will aid in corrosion not matter what finish it on the blade.

One of my pet peeves....but you wouldn't believe how many people never heard it. I don't think oil even is a guarantee against corrosion for a sheath stored knife.