Best disc that isn’t Nathan the machinists!? ;)

T

Tin.Man

Joined
Sep 5, 2010
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I was on his list and sadly funds weren’t there when his amazing discs were here. I’ve scoured the internet trying to track down a steel disc for the disc sander I’m cobbling together and no luck.

I’ve seen the Nielsen system and I like it but not sure I’m ready to shell out $300 for just the hub and a single disc just yet.

So I’m left with the Beaumont disc as well as the tru grit disc. The tru grit disc is anodized and I’ve read it holds up well, whereas Beaumont’s quality control seems to have slipped a bit.

Anyways love for any help or thoughts or ideas. I’ve even thought about having a disc made from steel then mounting it to an aluminum hub permanently. “Shrugs”
 
I have Trugrit's anodized disc as well (but I have a different overall set up than the grinder they see) and so far it's been working great, running true and holding up nicely.

Of course the edge of the face wears fairly quick from making contact with the inside of the plunge while flattening bevels as well as while learning to cleanly cut off the excess paper to form the disc without cutting into the aluminum itself (but that might just be me)

I also use a technique I learned from Nick of "killing" the edge(s) of the sandpaper by placing a piece of ceramic against it while spinning, which dulls the outer edge and thus keeps the edge of the paper/disc from cutting into blade; this also increases wear in that area.

I'd say the anodized layer holds up as well as the aluminum itself.

~Paul
My YT Channel
Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
coldsteelburns said:
I have Trugrit's anodized disc as well (but I have a different overall set up than the grinder they see) and so far it's been working great, running true and holding up nicely.

Of course the edge of the face wears fairly quick from making contact with the inside of the plunge while flattening bevels as well as while learning to cleanly cut off the excess paper to form the disc without cutting into the aluminum itself (but that might just be me)

I also use a technique I learned from Nick of "killing" the edge(s) of the sandpaper by placing a piece of ceramic against it while spinning, which dulls the outer edge and thus keeps the edge of the paper/disc from cutting into blade; this also increases wear in that area.

I'd say the anodized layer holds up as well as the aluminum itself.

~Paul
My YT Channel
Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
Click to expand...
you can also get a thick piece of micarta plate and cut it 9" dia and mount it on the alum plate. although that large a piece of micarta isn't that cheap
 
I've got a couple from R.W. Wilson that I'm pretty happy with, but like Nathan's I'm
pretty sure they're not available anymore.
Ken.
 
Once you have and use the Neilsen Disc system you will not need to ponder this question anymore. Just my opinion. It is worth the money. Larry
 
I certainly agree with Larry. And you did the "best". So I have to bring you back to the Nielsen. I don't know if I ever wrote here that at one time I had four of my "made" strung out on a bench.
 
look closely before buying. if you want interchangeable heads, they are available in 6 and 8 inch also, http://www.therockshed.com/equipment20.html for less than $100 2 heads and an adapter. for reasons unknown, the major companies don't make many discs in 9". if you shop, you can find paper 8" psa discs as low as $0.25 each. enjoy whatever you end up buying
 
Scott I was looking hard at that site. If those plates were steel it would probably be perfect except those adapters don’t have broached key ways. Comes threaded right or left hand or smooth bore with two set screws. The broached keyway takes up any space once tightened down. I would worry once it was spinning at 1800+ rpms. Plus I can get blaze ceramic disks for a 9” disc. Seems like the only 8” discs I can find are all silicon carbide and alumina oxide. Still though, maybe I’ll take the adapter to a machine shop and have it broached then make a few steel plates.
 
norton makes 8" discs in Blaze and Bluefire, just gotta shop other places than knife supply stores. I have several of the disc heads I linked to, never had one get loose although my max speed is 1100 rpm(3 phase fan motor for next to nothing). Norton, Mirka, Klingspor, 3M and most every other abrasive company makes 8" psa and plain discs. It will also depend and what you are using the disc sander for. I use a lot of fine(320-1500 grit) silicon carbide discs. again, enjoy your choice.
 
Thanks for all the help guys! Thinking hard on the Nielsen system. Haven’t heard back from Rod yet. Scott I appreciate that. Nice to know other vendors use stuff we do.

Do you have a link for the blaze discs in 8”?
 
maybe it's just because I don't use my disc grinder a ton, but imho interchangeable heads are over-rated. The sandpaper wears so quickly you will be changing it out constantly anyway, so it's no big deal to remove it and install different grit/grade in about 30 seconds.
 
Well at say .6o cents a throw or more I cannot agree. And this is after having this machine for three or four years.
Frank
 
Razor- I’m gonna throw some 1/16” neoprene one the disks then use 60-120-220 ceramic grain discs. In an attempt to flat grind. Granted I’ll be using very thin stock, 1/16-3/32 and I think it’ll work. Having the ability to change from each of the lower Frits will be nice cause I doubt I’ll be using it up with one blade.

Completely in the contemplative stage right now though. I’ve done some flat grinding with a disc at 60 grit with just the rhynowet stuff and was impressed with just paper.
 
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