Best etcher

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Jul 22, 2012
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Sort of a blind question here, so I apologize for not doing my homework first.

Is there any one, good all around etching solution for knife steels?? I say knife steals specifically because I dont know if you would use a different etching agent for brass or such (in blade guards). I have seen some pretty elaborate and expensive solutions out there along with some common house hold solutions that can be fairly easily made. What works best?
 
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I'd like to help you out but honestly I don't know. I use ferric chloride on all my steels (s35vn, 3v, d2, O1...) and have used saltwater in the past. Ferric chloride seems to work just a tiny bit better. Since it works I haven't bothered to try anything else.

What have you tried and did it work?
 
Hey Lt.Col.Vortex, I etch my logo with ferric chloride, it eats into most metals - it etches brass, copper, blade steels (stainless and carbon)and best of all it's cheap and easily accessible. I believe you guys can pick it up at RadioShack.
Exotic metals need exotic etchants - titanium needs specific (and generally nasty) stuff for instance.

I feel acid etch gives the best results, electronic etchers can't do ultra fine details where acid and Positiv20 can.
 
I use the home-made etching solution from Earnie. Click here. And my etcher is a home-made one from Chris Crawford. Click here. The only thing I changed with the etcher is I made it 12volt to keep from burning my stencils up. Both the etcher and solution work great. Hope this helps!
 
Sorry, thought you were talking about etching the blades with acid to bring out the damascus pattern.

I've sold lots of my etcher, the Atlas Mini Etcher. There is also the much higher priced personalizer and personalizer plus that has variable voltage. Not sure they're worth the extra $130. I'm working on a new etcher design that will have the ability to anodize Titanium, but it will be later this summer before it's ready to produce and sell.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.
 
Google any knifemaking supply store and they all have etching solution. They all work good. Many just use salt water. They will all work and will all etch STEEL.
 
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Hey Lt.Col.Vortex, I etch my logo with ferric chloride, it eats into most metals - it etches brass, copper, blade steels (stainless and carbon)and best of all it's cheap and easily accessible. I believe you guys can pick it up at RadioShack.
Exotic metals need exotic etchants - titanium needs specific (and generally nasty) stuff for instance.

I feel acid etch gives the best results, electronic etchers can't do ultra fine details where acid and Positiv20 can.

Hi Gareth, I've been looking for a good resist..thanks for the recommendation (Positiv20).
Question: How do you use it with stencils? Do you create an exact replica of your design with paper/plastic...then lay it down and spray the Positiv20 over it....then remove your stencil and apply the acid? I'm I close?

Thanks!
 
Hey Savagesword

Here ya go - just did it for a tutorial :)

Here's how I etch my blades:

Firstly, these are some nasty chemicals so proceed with caution, good ventilation is always a must and keep your chemicals in tightly stoppered containers, well labelled and out of general reach. Ferric Chloride will lose effectiveness if exposed to light over time, I keep mine in a brown chemist bottle. Caustic soda I mix up as needed.

Last night I sprayed the blade with Positiv20. It's a photo-reactive spray-paint and dries dark green. Sorry about the photo - taken in a dark room with minimal light - photo-reactive remember :)
DSC06046.jpg


I then take one of my negatives and put a thin strip of tape along one edge:
DSC06110.jpg

This is a proper photo negative - the black is REALLY black - you can't have any light getting through.

I stick it in position, the tape helps hold it in place while I clamp it down with sharpened clothes pegs:
DSC06052.jpg


Once I'm happy with the placement I expose it to direct sunlight for 15-20 seconds. Make sure there are no shadows on the logo area and keep your hands still. 15-20 seconds is plenty, too much more and you'll "burn" the Positiv20.
After exposing it to sunlight the exposed paint turns dark blue and can be washed away with a weak caustic soda solution. I pour a couple drops onto the blade and after a couple seconds tha logo starts darkening and popping out of the paint. I then flush the blade in fast running water to remove the softened paint. Here's the result:
DSC06061.jpg


The logo should be sharp and shiny with no paint left inside of it. If you're unsure, re-apply caustic soda for a couple more seconds. I draw a"moat" around the logo with sharpie, it'll stop the acid running out of the area you want it in :)

I then put a couple drops of ferric chloride onto the area I want to etch. It's pretty viscous (as in the "thickness" of the liquid) so it forms a pretty stable droplet. You only need to cover the area to be etched but overlap the logo just a bit.
DSC06068.jpg

I count to 200 then flush the blade and check the etch. It'll etch better in warmer weather, I do a couple etches in winter. If necessary, re-etch NOW - once you remove the Positiv20 it'd be damn near impossible to get the logo back in the same position, so be sure before you move on.

Once you're happy the logo is nicely etched you can wipe the blade down with acetone to remove the Positiv20 - always a nerve-wracking time - I hate botched etches.
This one came out a beaut though - deep and dark - very chuffed:
DSC06071.jpg
 
What the heck took so long?!

:)

This is awesome! Thank you so much for the post.

Question: What is the stencil made of (you said a real photo negative)... and where do you get that made? yourself or a service (I remember reading about a guy that offers stencil services).

Thanks Gareth!!
 
What the heck took so long?!

:)

This is awesome! Thank you so much for the post.

Question: What is the stencil made of (you said a real photo negative)... and where do you get that made? yourself or a service (I remember reading about a guy that offers stencil services).

Thanks Gareth!!

No hassles, most welcome :)

I get mine printed at a high end printing company, lots of people can do it, I picked my guys because they were closest :) You're looking for a high quality "transparecy negative", generally guys offering stencils are talking about the silk screen version that's used with electro-chemical etchers like the one mentioned in the OP.

Mine set me back about $3 for a full A4 page of various sizes and styles. If you can save your logo (or whatever you want etched) as a high quality vector image (.pdf is good) it'll save them design time and you design charges:)

Gazza
 
Hi David

I'd suggest checking with Radio Shack. Both the Positiv20 and the Ferric chloride are used in making circuit boards.
 
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