Best Finish for Burl Maple Handle??

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
Would super glue be the best way to finish burl maple?
Also, when you use large pins, say 3/16 or 1/4" for your handles, do you peen them, or just epoxy them in after scratching them up? Thanks folks!! Michael

------------------
<A HREF="http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
"Always" TARGET=_blank>http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
"Always</A> think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
Michael, you might want to stain that first and bring out the grain patterns first. Then I would suggest tung oil. Put it on in thin coats, let dry and buff with clean loose buff. Mixing chromic acid and water makes a nice red stain for maple, but it brings the grain up and you'll have to sand between applications until you get desired results. This stain only works on maple, by the way.

Jake
 
I have done maple burl before and found it pretty porous. You can try super glue but you may be putting it on for a while. I used some stuff that Texas Knifemaker's Supply sells called "Fix-it". It is an acrylic based sealer that a lot of the ceramic type folks use to "fix" or seal their ceramic pieces. This stuff works great for sealing. Granted, it takes about 6 or 7 coats but the finish is worth it for real porous wood.

I wish I had a method of posting a picture, I still have one of the first knives I used maple burl and Fix-it to seal it with. No stain was used, nor necessary, in my opinion.
By the way, according to their catalog, Fix-it cannot be shipped by air.

One other option would be to send the burl to K&G and have it stabilized. This, in my humble opinion, would be the best option.

I almost forgot. I try not to peen pins in any handle material. Bolsters, fingerguards, no problem. Most any, if not all natural handle material will crack.

C Wilkins

[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 02-20-2000).]
 
L6,

You can stain the Maple Burl with Fiebings Leather dye. The dye will raise the grain, so sand it with some 400 grit paper (you may have to do this a few times). Let it dry and put a few lite coats of Tung Oil on the wood.
Use steel wool (0000) if the tung oil builds up too much.
Here are a couple of examples:
View


View


------------------
Barry
Jones Knives

Do you hear that?
That is the sound of inevitability.
 
Thanks for the info !!!!CL, I used to crack alot of handles. Once I started peening the pins using more and softer hits, I stopped cracking the handles.
Barry, very nice knives, and beautiful handles!!!!!! I lightened the pix up some so I could see the handle detail better. Man these are nice.
<img src=http://members.aol.com/l6steel/ebay/neil.jpg><img src=http://members.aol.com/l6steel/ebay/neil2.jpg>


------------------
<A HREF="http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
"Always" TARGET=_blank>http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
"Always</A> think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"

[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 02-20-2000).]
 
L6,

Who's Neil?
confused.gif


------------------
Barry
Jones Knives

Do you hear that?
That is the sound of inevitability.
 
L-6 check this 1 out super glue with a light coat of model airplane dope.Then buffed lightly.http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=93866&a=808330&p=13146650 1 coat of dark brown leather dye


[This message has been edited by TJ Smith (edited 02-21-2000).]
 
Wow, TJ, that thing is gorgeous!!!!!! Man, I sure am glad I went ahead and bought this block of burl maple!! Wasn't sure if it would turn out very nice, but I sure am now. Thanks everyone!!!!! I'll post a pic of mine after I get a couple done. Take care! Michael

------------------
<A HREF="http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
"Always" TARGET=_blank>http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
"Always</A> think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
wow! nice knives. tung oil should work just fine. i'm thinking ofd buying some "rockhard" table varnish. anyone ever use the stuff on knifehandles, on knives that are for show?
i have some black walnut burl, is it worth cutting up?
i put the pins in with epoxy, and after it sets, but not fully hardened, i peen it, but only until i fill the gaps, so i don't build up any stress in the handle material.

[This message has been edited by magnum .44 (edited 02-21-2000).]
 
Back
Top