best forge for under $300?

Number of burners depends on the volume of the Forge and the capabilities of the burner itself. IIRC the sidearm burner kits can do about 300-350 cu in of space. I have about an 8" diameter X 15" length Forge and a jf burner from eBay and it gets plenty hot for Forge welding.
 
Okay I just remember that I ordered a thermocouple with a controller last year and never got to use it.

How would I make a forge that is adjustable in temperature via the little controller?
 
The atlas forge, if you see a picture, is wayyyyy to small. The last billet of 1084/15n20 I used was about 6.5" tall/1.5" wide.
 
Last question. Would a propane tank be a good forge body for what I describe? As far as size is concerned?
 
I suggest building one, because once that is under your belt it is cheap and easy to build more or different designs as needed. That being said, I did now know how easy it was to build a forge so I bought this one
http://www.diamondbackironworks.com/catalog/item/2754775/8423329.htm
thirty bucks over your price range but I have melted half inch thick steel when I wasn't paying attention. Plenty of heat and easy to reline when needed.
 
clivehamilton77 said:
The atlas forge, if you see a picture, is wayyyyy to small. The last billet of 1084/15n20 I used was about 6.5" tall/1.5" wide.
Click to expand...

Most peoples forges are too small for a giant billet like that. Then again, most peoples arms are too small for a billet like that. However, I've seen a 24 layer billet worked with no problem in an Atlas. I've personally made stainless san-mai and cable damascus in it with no problem.
 
Zaph, I'm sure you can put all different kinds of billets but I was just commenting on my experiences. After it was pressed it would have no problem in the Atlas. This is also coming from a extremely new "forger" so take it for what it's worth: not much. I'm trying to upload a picture of the billet I was speaking of but this app I'm on won't let me. I don't see how this billet would be too big. It was welded to a 4ft piece of wrought iron. That and the tool rest made it no problem at all.
 
Would the approximately 10" dia peices of the cast iron water main that broke at work, work for a forge? Or should it be steel?
 
You're going to play hell drilling and cutting the cast iron main. You'd be amazed how cheap 8" or 10" steel tubing is. I bought 24" of 8" for, I think, $22.

Clive: I was just saying that a 6.5" tall billet would need at least a 12" OD round forge. 6.5" is a HUGE billet, probably enough to make several dozen knives. You'd wear your elbow out hammering, which means a press or power hammer, which means "not a beginner project." By the time you're doing large billets of damascus, you've probably outgrown the Atlas, or even a propane tank forge.
 
Zaph. You're right. I forgot to mention we had a press and a hammer which made it a cake walk which, you're right, is not a beginner project. As a beginner I'm very happy with my atlas and if rec. it to anyone. Sorry for the confusion Zaph.
 
Would a ribbon burner for a DIY forge kick the price up over $300? I've talked with a number of smiths using the ribbon burner and they swear by them.
 
Here's a great tutorial on making a single-burner forge quickly and easily. Obviously he was in a rush and didn't do some things to make the forge more efficient... but you don't get more simple.

http://www.docsmachine.com/projects/forge/fg01.html

The thing I like about dog-house style forges is that they have an opening that's large enough to allow for any reasonable project. As a general smith, I'm always wanting to make a scroll that's wider than the mouths on 99% of the commercially available forges.

On a design like this, he needs to coat the kaowool with a bit of hard refractory just to stiffen it up a bit and give it a bit more strength. It also needs a coat of refractory paint to keep the heat in. But the only really big difference I would make is to put kaowool blanket under the hardbrick floor. That hard brick is a nightmare of a heat sink and transfers your heat to the outside very efficiently (it's a lousy insulator). It makes a durable floor, but you really need to have something under it to keep the heat in.

You can buy a pre-built burner with hose and regulator for $150 or so on ebay. The JF1 burner gets good reviews, so I wouldn't feel bad about buying one.

Definitely worth buying the materials and building your own. It's far cheaper in the long run.
 
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