best grind for bushcraft

N

night_hawk

Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
35
Hi everyone,
I was wondering what the best ideal grind for bushcraft/survival out of the flollowing is?

Convex
Scandi
Semi hollow
Hollow
 
I prefer flat ground.

grinds.gif
 
i like flat ground for woodcarving, but my nighthawk will do well at that to.
i just got a nice leather sheath for my mora:D
joshknives011.jpg
 
Bushcraft and survival are very different. A Mora 2000 makes a nice bushcraft knife but for survival I would want a Camp Tramp or similar.

-Cliff
 
Convex is the best for both IMO because its the strongest.

Hollow is the worst IMO because its the weakest.
 
I would have to say Scandi.....All the Survival gurus can't be wrong !!!
 
night_hawk said:
what about the grind that buck uses?
Click to expand...

I haven't owned a buck since I was a kid. (as mentioned in another thread, my parents lost my childhood collection.) And the bucks in it were not beaters. BUT, if an edge is hollow its weaker than flat or convex or Scandi. There is just less steel there.
 
Cliff, Why would you want a bigger knife like a Camp tramp or something silmilar for survival?

I trust your opinion on such matters.


Thanks

Chris
 
I say scandi for ease of sharpening and the fact that they work realy well for carving,whitling etc.
 
They all work...some better than others. but they will all do thier thing... I used saks and buck knives my whole life before I ever even knew anything about grinds to do a whole myriad of things....If I had to choose one specifically for buscraft a scandi grind would be the way to go. If I was choosing a knife that would be used for bushcraft as well as other things I'd go convex.
 
Scandi for general woodsbeating and knocking around, convex if I'm cleaning animals or doing any amount of cooking. Flat grind is okay, if it's on a darn good knife, and Hollow ground is generally bad in my eyes.

All rules are flexible though. I've got a Chisel ground knife that's been a great general purpose woodloafin' brush hacker.
 
The grind that is best is the one that you can sharpen and you know how to use. For example, a hollowgrind is great for cutting, which is the first function and primary that a knife is supposed to do, and any weakness simply means a change in the way you use it.

A Leatherman and USGI 22" machete, at the very least a 12" GI spec Ontario machete. A Leatherman and a hatchet is also a good combo. Toss is a Buck 110 or a Mora and you're ready for almost anything.
 
I prefer a Scandinavian Grind is a wide flat bevel that runs to the edge of the blade. There is no significant secondary bevel on this grind. The Scandinavian Grind gives excellent control in woodcarving & woodcraft.
 
mrostov said:
The grind that is best is the one that you can sharpen and you know how to use.
Click to expand...

Hard to argue with that.


A Leatherman and USGI 22" machete, at the very least a 12" GI spec Ontario machete. A Leatherman and a hatchet is also a good combo.
Click to expand...

What are the most useful features of the Leatherman for wood work or are you thinking urban survival.

-Cliff
 
For what I do with my knives full flat, convex and scandi work for me. They all have benefits and shortcomings. Due to ease of use, manufacture and familiarity makers usually go with flat. The knife industry hasn't started producing a lot of convex or scandi edged blades. Even trying to get Spyderco to go with a scandi or convex edge on the new bushcraft knife is hard because the mass market probably wouldn't buy it.

Hollow grinds are great for skinning and tasks that don't involve chopping.
 
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