- Joined
- Oct 19, 2010
- Messages
- 253
Over the years I've owned enough steel to know that some of the best blades are made from highly water-sensitive materials.
Pretty much any high-carbon steel and many alloys are subject to some if not a lot of rust when exposed to fresh or salt water.
Skin oil can even be a corrosive.
Personally I like to have rust free steel, so I've spent a long number of hours researching various oils, coverings, and other inhibitors to keep the steel I have in new condition, and help protect it during use and storage.
Here's my list of the best products I've been able to find and purchase more or less easily:
1. Eezox gun oil (best overall, and for things you're going to handle)
This stuff is amazing. Goes on with a not too unpleasant smell in liquid form. Seeps into all crevises, under handles and into all parts of a steel item. Then, after a couple hours it dries complexly and leaves only a dry film behind which is very tenacious. This product protects the best I've found for salt water, hand oil, and overall moisture. Apply every couple months for heavy use items. 1x per year for display or storage. Harder to find in brick and mortar stores other than gun shops but easily buyable at online retailers. A little goes a long way.
Sells for about $15 or so a bottle depending on the size.
2. BreakFree CLP (good second choice, especially if you're not going to touch the coated surface)
While not as corrosion prohibitive as Eezox it is much more available. Find it at Target, WallMart, Fred Meyer in the sporting goods sections. It protects about 1/4 as well in that its great while it lasts but as it wears off or sits for a time it becomes less and less effective. You need to apply it about every week or so for items in use and about 4x per year for display or storage. It does not dry and maintains an oily coating until it eventually evaporates over time. This makes it a little less ideal for any surface you're going to be handling or using as it wears off quicker, and if you're touching it the surface it gets on you. The smell is still fairly mild but it can become strong if you get it on your hands.
Sells for about $9 dollars a bottle depending on the size.
3. Rennassaince wax
This wax based product is great when you can get at every part of the steel you want to protect. You rub it on, then buff it off, just like waxing your car with turtlewax. The downside of this product is that it is labor intensive and it does not seep into anything. No crevices, no joints, no handles. You have to RUB it onto whatever you want to protect so that means for all pinned handles, joints, and other places you're just not going to be able to rub... rust.
Great for larger pieces of display steel as it makes the pieces really shine. But keep in mind, you'll still need something for the places this stuff won't go.
Purchase online and in specialty shops for about $15 per tub.
4. Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish
Pound for pound this is the best and most useful polish and protectant I think I've ever used. It works on steel, it works on aluminum, it works on magnesium, it works on brass, copper, tin, and even plastic. This stuff is seriously amazing.
Tarnish, rust, discoloration. This stuff takes care of it all. And it leaves behind a blindingly bright polished and lightly coated surface that lasts a long time.
Like the other polish/paste/wax products availble this does require a lot of work to use and buffing and cleanup are required. It also will not protect anything it can't be rubbed on and off of, so here again crevices and handles are out. Still, if you need to brighten up something from coins to rings, to swords, to knives. This stuff will do it. Mild smell, it will make your hands BLACK so use a terrycloth towel.
Purchase at auto-parts stores and retailers for about $10 per tub.
Everything else.
(I do not include 3in1 or WD40 in this list. They are NOT rust preventers they are for lubrication of nuts and bolts)
Yea, I said it. The above two products are pretty much the best you can get and use and have the fewest compromises.
All other types of coatings, oils, waxes, and such have fairly big drawbacks in either price, availability, longevity, application, smell, or toxicity.
I hope this helps, I know I've been much happier with my non-rusted steel than with constantly having to re-apply or take special precautions when using or re-apply the product ever day just to get it to work.
- Hal Zucati
Pretty much any high-carbon steel and many alloys are subject to some if not a lot of rust when exposed to fresh or salt water.
Skin oil can even be a corrosive.
Personally I like to have rust free steel, so I've spent a long number of hours researching various oils, coverings, and other inhibitors to keep the steel I have in new condition, and help protect it during use and storage.
Here's my list of the best products I've been able to find and purchase more or less easily:
1. Eezox gun oil (best overall, and for things you're going to handle)
This stuff is amazing. Goes on with a not too unpleasant smell in liquid form. Seeps into all crevises, under handles and into all parts of a steel item. Then, after a couple hours it dries complexly and leaves only a dry film behind which is very tenacious. This product protects the best I've found for salt water, hand oil, and overall moisture. Apply every couple months for heavy use items. 1x per year for display or storage. Harder to find in brick and mortar stores other than gun shops but easily buyable at online retailers. A little goes a long way.
Sells for about $15 or so a bottle depending on the size.
2. BreakFree CLP (good second choice, especially if you're not going to touch the coated surface)
While not as corrosion prohibitive as Eezox it is much more available. Find it at Target, WallMart, Fred Meyer in the sporting goods sections. It protects about 1/4 as well in that its great while it lasts but as it wears off or sits for a time it becomes less and less effective. You need to apply it about every week or so for items in use and about 4x per year for display or storage. It does not dry and maintains an oily coating until it eventually evaporates over time. This makes it a little less ideal for any surface you're going to be handling or using as it wears off quicker, and if you're touching it the surface it gets on you. The smell is still fairly mild but it can become strong if you get it on your hands.
Sells for about $9 dollars a bottle depending on the size.
3. Rennassaince wax
This wax based product is great when you can get at every part of the steel you want to protect. You rub it on, then buff it off, just like waxing your car with turtlewax. The downside of this product is that it is labor intensive and it does not seep into anything. No crevices, no joints, no handles. You have to RUB it onto whatever you want to protect so that means for all pinned handles, joints, and other places you're just not going to be able to rub... rust.
Great for larger pieces of display steel as it makes the pieces really shine. But keep in mind, you'll still need something for the places this stuff won't go.
Purchase online and in specialty shops for about $15 per tub.
4. Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish
Pound for pound this is the best and most useful polish and protectant I think I've ever used. It works on steel, it works on aluminum, it works on magnesium, it works on brass, copper, tin, and even plastic. This stuff is seriously amazing.
Tarnish, rust, discoloration. This stuff takes care of it all. And it leaves behind a blindingly bright polished and lightly coated surface that lasts a long time.
Like the other polish/paste/wax products availble this does require a lot of work to use and buffing and cleanup are required. It also will not protect anything it can't be rubbed on and off of, so here again crevices and handles are out. Still, if you need to brighten up something from coins to rings, to swords, to knives. This stuff will do it. Mild smell, it will make your hands BLACK so use a terrycloth towel.
Purchase at auto-parts stores and retailers for about $10 per tub.
Everything else.
(I do not include 3in1 or WD40 in this list. They are NOT rust preventers they are for lubrication of nuts and bolts)
Yea, I said it. The above two products are pretty much the best you can get and use and have the fewest compromises.
All other types of coatings, oils, waxes, and such have fairly big drawbacks in either price, availability, longevity, application, smell, or toxicity.
I hope this helps, I know I've been much happier with my non-rusted steel than with constantly having to re-apply or take special precautions when using or re-apply the product ever day just to get it to work.
- Hal Zucati
