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Best lightweight thin fix-bladed knife?
- Thread starter OmegaA
- Start date
Agreed. I was thinking of more than wood (skinning and camp chores also), but something in 52100 might be a better general-purpose steel. My thinned out Bandicoot performs very well also. OmegaA, IIRC, don't you have a Howling Rat? Thinning the edge out really puts these knives into a different class of cutters altogether.
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I'm not exactly sure how light you are considering lightweight.
Doug Ritter's new RSK mk3 S30V fixed blade knife made by Benchmade has a 4.5" long, 0.140" thick blade with a total length of 9.1". It weighs just 5.7 ounces, not including the nylon with kydex liner sheath. The cost is $165.
This knife is the "big brother" of the almost legendary Rittergrip folder, but weights only a few ounces more (1.88 oz. more to be exact). The blade isn't too thin, but the high grind made possible by the blade width makes it a great slicer. The unusual texture of the handle not only makes it grippy, but it also looks great. I've had mine for a few months now and like it a lot.
Much more information at http://www.equipped.org/rsk_mk3.htm .
Doug Ritter's new RSK mk3 S30V fixed blade knife made by Benchmade has a 4.5" long, 0.140" thick blade with a total length of 9.1". It weighs just 5.7 ounces, not including the nylon with kydex liner sheath. The cost is $165.
This knife is the "big brother" of the almost legendary Rittergrip folder, but weights only a few ounces more (1.88 oz. more to be exact). The blade isn't too thin, but the high grind made possible by the blade width makes it a great slicer. The unusual texture of the handle not only makes it grippy, but it also looks great. I've had mine for a few months now and like it a lot.
Much more information at http://www.equipped.org/rsk_mk3.htm .
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Knifetester,
It's a shame that Dale is kind of out of commission as far as knifemaking at the present because the 3/32" Nessmuk he made me pretty much made me aware of how much more a thinner bladed knife is suited to my needs when I am backpacking or camping because I do a lot of food prep.
I think that it is easy to find a nice thick bladed knife but harder to find a thinner, say 1/8 or less blade in the variety that you find the thick bladed ones.
Not saying of course that a thick bladed knife can't mostly do even fine slicing. Check out this thread with the F1, which I think is a really thick knife
http://ramanon.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42035
Still for stuff like bread and for some other cooking chores I still like the thinner one better.
Like Cliff says though really depends on what you are doing I guess.
It's a shame that Dale is kind of out of commission as far as knifemaking at the present because the 3/32" Nessmuk he made me pretty much made me aware of how much more a thinner bladed knife is suited to my needs when I am backpacking or camping because I do a lot of food prep.
I think that it is easy to find a nice thick bladed knife but harder to find a thinner, say 1/8 or less blade in the variety that you find the thick bladed ones.
Not saying of course that a thick bladed knife can't mostly do even fine slicing. Check out this thread with the F1, which I think is a really thick knife
http://ramanon.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42035
Still for stuff like bread and for some other cooking chores I still like the thinner one better.
Like Cliff says though really depends on what you are doing I guess.
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I was looking for a pumpkin recipe . You had me going until I saw Rosemary . Someone used a tablespoon of the stuff instead of a teaspoon once . It tasted like a potpouri .
Oh yeah , knife thread . I like both of them .
Oh yeah , knife thread . I like both of them .
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My BRKT Wolf River at .1" is my best cutter. Period. The blade thickness is the same as my Helle Jergermeister, but the convex grind improves the cutting power.
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52100?
PJ Tomes utility hunter
The axe is cast D2, the folder 12C27 (IIRC)
All from PJ
That's a really nice shape!
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Kenk:
I think that is a great looking knife, I like the Sebenza-like profile.
Hollowdweller:
Yeah, it is a shame. Hopefully Dale will back on a great production schedule very soon.
This is especially true on non-binding materials, where only the edge an a minimal part of the primary grind are in contact with the stuff being cut. Compare cutting an orange and a large potato.
A 10 blade can be used for chopping, and as a lever for prying, so to that extent they need some cross section, for most cutting chores the vast majority of tactical bowies are simply ground too thick (i.e. .50-.075 behind the edge or thicker). If you mean a Ray Kirk or similiar ABS class bowie, that is a whole other class of knives.
I think that is a great looking knife, I like the Sebenza-like profile.
Hollowdweller:
Yeah, it is a shame. Hopefully Dale will back on a great production schedule very soon.
This is especially true on non-binding materials, where only the edge an a minimal part of the primary grind are in contact with the stuff being cut. Compare cutting an orange and a large potato.
A 10 blade can be used for chopping, and as a lever for prying, so to that extent they need some cross section, for most cutting chores the vast majority of tactical bowies are simply ground too thick (i.e. .50-.075 behind the edge or thicker). If you mean a Ray Kirk or similiar ABS class bowie, that is a whole other class of knives.
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Sorry for the split post, my wife needed to use the computer. . .
Anyways, I have used a few 3.16" thick 4" bladed knives I would find suitable for woodcraft, a custom BA3, and a Laserstrike for example. As well, consider that some knvies start out at 3/16" at the spine, but have very significant distal taper, look at the CS Master Hunter for example (though that may start out at 5/32", I don't remember).
Not at all. I think anyone making those selections in those enviroments is probably making a good choice. They are proably well suited for the taks seen in those areas.
I would characterize someone that bought that gear for those reasons as pretty darn prudent. If they were to wear them for a walk on the beach in 75 degree weather, I might think them a little strange, but too each their own. I would say someone using a huge tactical bowie to slice some sausage and cheese is in about a comparable situation. But, it is there choice, and good for them. I would just happen to make a different choice.
Yep, go to any through hiker forum, especially the ultralight crowd. If you leave the nail file on your SAK Classic you are packing too much steel. IN those circles, a small (key chain class) folder is as large people are willing to go iten times.
I guess it all goes back to common sense, which has always served me well when I remember to use it.
I did not intend to insult or disrespect anyone with anything I wrote (the review above was written two years ago or so, there may be statements in it I would reconsider today).
If I offended anyone, I apologize. I get no thrill out of being a jerk. Well, usually I don't anyway.
I have no problem at all admiting when I am wrong, it happens very often and I am used to it by now. I claim to have no special knowledge, skill or ability, and do not consider myself an expert of any kind, nor do I believe I have held myself out as such. This is especially true in regards to wilderness survival, as I don't go anywhere in the world I can't get a cell phone signal
I am here to learn, and I can only do that with an open mind.
Anyways, I have used a few 3.16" thick 4" bladed knives I would find suitable for woodcraft, a custom BA3, and a Laserstrike for example. As well, consider that some knvies start out at 3/16" at the spine, but have very significant distal taper, look at the CS Master Hunter for example (though that may start out at 5/32", I don't remember).
Not at all. I think anyone making those selections in those enviroments is probably making a good choice. They are proably well suited for the taks seen in those areas.
I would characterize someone that bought that gear for those reasons as pretty darn prudent. If they were to wear them for a walk on the beach in 75 degree weather, I might think them a little strange, but too each their own. I would say someone using a huge tactical bowie to slice some sausage and cheese is in about a comparable situation. But, it is there choice, and good for them. I would just happen to make a different choice.
Yep, go to any through hiker forum, especially the ultralight crowd. If you leave the nail file on your SAK Classic you are packing too much steel. IN those circles, a small (key chain class) folder is as large people are willing to go iten times.
I guess it all goes back to common sense, which has always served me well when I remember to use it.
I did not intend to insult or disrespect anyone with anything I wrote (the review above was written two years ago or so, there may be statements in it I would reconsider today).
If I offended anyone, I apologize. I get no thrill out of being a jerk. Well, usually I don't anyway.
I have no problem at all admiting when I am wrong, it happens very often and I am used to it by now. I claim to have no special knowledge, skill or ability, and do not consider myself an expert of any kind, nor do I believe I have held myself out as such. This is especially true in regards to wilderness survival, as I don't go anywhere in the world I can't get a cell phone signal
I am here to learn, and I can only do that with an open mind.
I happen to like bigger Fixed blades. 1/4" is what I consider a good thickness inthe 7" to 12" class of blades, the ones people call "Big Choppers".
I think I know why I gravitate to these heftier blades in my maturity.
As a Youth i overworked smaller knives. One of Cliff's many favorite discussions is Prying, and yes, I am guilty of prying with smaller knives, even folders, when i really had no business even thinking it.
I've towed an oversized load with an underpowered vehicle before, also, and each time I experienced that type of thing, I learned , better to have a little extra something under the hood, than to come up a bit short.
that ideal follows me in the blades I select. I'd prefer the 1/4" steel, better to have a little extra weight and heft, than not quite enough.
Call it rambo complex, or TimThe Toolman Taylor "More Power" syndrome, but, I'll err on the side of strength.
For food prep while camping something like my SAK Trekker does just fine.
Even though, I must admit, I did once slice a summer sausage into pieces using my Machete.
I told my camping buddies, "The kinfe isn't too big, it's these puny summer suasages!"
I think I know why I gravitate to these heftier blades in my maturity.
As a Youth i overworked smaller knives. One of Cliff's many favorite discussions is Prying, and yes, I am guilty of prying with smaller knives, even folders, when i really had no business even thinking it.
I've towed an oversized load with an underpowered vehicle before, also, and each time I experienced that type of thing, I learned , better to have a little extra something under the hood, than to come up a bit short.
that ideal follows me in the blades I select. I'd prefer the 1/4" steel, better to have a little extra weight and heft, than not quite enough.
Call it rambo complex, or TimThe Toolman Taylor "More Power" syndrome, but, I'll err on the side of strength.
For food prep while camping something like my SAK Trekker does just fine.
Even though, I must admit, I did once slice a summer sausage into pieces using my Machete.
I told my camping buddies, "The kinfe isn't too big, it's these puny summer suasages!"- Joined
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What do you pry with your knives?
On the flip side of the coin, many noted survival experts, i.e. Ron Hood, Greg Davenport endorse big blades, and others, ie Mears, Randall, have noted the neccesity of machete and/or parang size blades for jusngle work. I don't think that the later is disputed by anyone.
If I did some of the things Ron Hood does in the woods, or in near as isolated areas, perhaps I would value the big choppers as well.
I have used many 10" size knives, and some I liked better than others. . .
On the flip side of the coin, many noted survival experts, i.e. Ron Hood, Greg Davenport endorse big blades, and others, ie Mears, Randall, have noted the neccesity of machete and/or parang size blades for jusngle work. I don't think that the later is disputed by anyone.
If I did some of the things Ron Hood does in the woods, or in near as isolated areas, perhaps I would value the big choppers as well.
I have used many 10" size knives, and some I liked better than others. . .
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My Becker necker can,t be more than six inches long .The handle is the tang . You can wrap paracord on it and have some cordage that way . Its a good pry if not a great one because of its short length . I personally think you could baton down a good sized tree with it . You can definitely baton firewood with it . I may eventually put a convex grind/edge on it . It does tend to bind in deep splits . I betcha a convex will help solve that . I could just learn to make a decent wedge .
Cliff Stamp
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Yes, tactical knives like tactical axes should not be confused with woodcraft versions of the same and the properties of one not used to infer properties of the other. It would be petty silly to compare a tactical tomahawk to a Kirk bowie to show how superior bowies were to axes obviously. The same holds in reverse. Most tactical knives knives can be turned into decent wood craft tools if the user desires with an edge relief. The really thick, no taper, sabre-ground, ones pretty much require you to overhaul the primary and thus pretty much make a new knife.
Is that really how you see wilderness survival as a generality?
Yes and who you are and what you can do. Consider a very active and physically capable man. Would it really be sensible for him to limit his knife to not being able to utilize his strength. Does that not seem to be obviously and severely flawed. This is no different than users picking suitable axe head weights and would anyone expect a 15, 35 and 65 year old man to all use the same axe - all may very well be active in woodcraft / survival. Consider for example if you had a knife which when you used it, the knife made you 95% weaker, would that not be a glaring problem. Well a knife which can handle 5% of your optimal strength pretty much has this effect because your extra strength has no benefit. You are the primary survival resourse so your equipment should be chosen to maximize your abilities which means you better find out what they are and choose accordingly.
-Cliff
I like the looks of that Racquette Forge Mooseskinner. I reminds me of this knife I have that I find the most useful for camping:
It's a thin carbon steel knife, something like an Opinel, but with a larger, wider, fixed blade. The handle is sort of crude. I got it here several years ago although the price was less:
http://www.boundarywaterscatalog.com/browse.cfm/4,5484.html
It looks like this guy (a cobler) makes 'em and offers free handle and sheath replacement:
http://www.henrysshoerepair.com/Custom Knives Moosehide Cases.html
The thin blade is the most useful around camp and is the knife that's grabbed by far the most, and held onto the longests, doing all types of food prep, and the wide blade is great for spreading mayo, mustard, butter, etc. It's carbon blade holds a great edge and is a wizz to sharpen fast, so it's a great cutter. The wide blade works great for me in scooping diced onions from the board into the pan (i.e. chef knife), and it works well as a small spatua too for serving (e.g. cake, brownies). It's worked well for cleaning trout. Despite it's thin blade, it's plenty strong enough for stick cutting and sharpening for weinie/marshmallow roasts, or for shaving kindling. Plus it's a beater, that I don't need to worry about abusing.
The sheath seems to work well. It's thick leather (although a bit too soft for my taste, I'm think I'll cut through the loop someday), but reinforced with copper rivits around the blade perimeter.
It's a thin carbon steel knife, something like an Opinel, but with a larger, wider, fixed blade. The handle is sort of crude. I got it here several years ago although the price was less:
http://www.boundarywaterscatalog.com/browse.cfm/4,5484.html
It looks like this guy (a cobler) makes 'em and offers free handle and sheath replacement:
http://www.henrysshoerepair.com/Custom Knives Moosehide Cases.html
The thin blade is the most useful around camp and is the knife that's grabbed by far the most, and held onto the longests, doing all types of food prep, and the wide blade is great for spreading mayo, mustard, butter, etc. It's carbon blade holds a great edge and is a wizz to sharpen fast, so it's a great cutter. The wide blade works great for me in scooping diced onions from the board into the pan (i.e. chef knife), and it works well as a small spatua too for serving (e.g. cake, brownies). It's worked well for cleaning trout. Despite it's thin blade, it's plenty strong enough for stick cutting and sharpening for weinie/marshmallow roasts, or for shaving kindling. Plus it's a beater, that I don't need to worry about abusing.
The sheath seems to work well. It's thick leather (although a bit too soft for my taste, I'm think I'll cut through the loop someday), but reinforced with copper rivits around the blade perimeter.
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Nope. I think the subject carries a wide range of aspects. Light use is one, and probably the most often seen by far.
Harder use is needed at times, other times it is not. I do not dispute that it is better to be over-prepared than under. If I though the hard use of a knife was possible in a given instance, I hope I would be packing the needed steel.
Cliff Stamp
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I don't see survival situations as being dependent on slicing sausage and cheeze though, this isn't even a critical need for a knife. Your can simply do that with your teeth. Which tasks do you need to perform to keep yourself alive and how they are effected by your equipment. How long/demanding is it to built a variety of shelters with a Mora 2000 or small parang, make a fire, craft various implements such as weapons/utility, clothing, etc. .
It is very true that a lot of the precison cutting is easier with a smaller knife, however that is in general low effort, even if it is made 90% easier then you are still talking about not much change in general in calories consumed. Which is more demanding, to fell a few small saplings with a Mora 2000 or carve a figure four / toggle trigger with a small parang. As well, in many survival situations you are talking about being either physically injured, highly stressed, or dependent on another individual. All of these can raise the demands on a knife for a given task which is why it seems valid to put more emphasis on durability.
-Cliff