Best Lube for Bearing Flippers

[WhitleyStu]

I choose my lube oils by whether the oil migrates or not. On my 1911's slide I use Break-Free as I actually want the oil to migrate to all areas of the slide/frame mating surfaces. On my knife pivot surfaces Kellube or Super Lube, which have a much lower rate of migration, are my choices. Also, just a drop on a q-tip to moisten the pivot mating surfaces is plenty so as not to attract dirt as preciously mentioned.

 

[ribeyemediumrare]

I choose my lube oils by whether the oil migrates or not. On my 1911's slide I use Break-Free as I actually want the oil to migrate to all areas of the slide/frame mating surfaces. On my knife pivot surfaces Kellube or Super Lube, which have a much lower rate of migration, are my choices. Also, just a drop on a q-tip to moisten the pivot mating surfaces is plenty so as not to attract dirt as preciously mentioned.

Why would you want oil to migrate in your 1911? The purpose of lubricant in a firearm is to reduce friction so that less wear occurs and that the action cycles reliably every time. When you you use an oil that is too light it tends to not stay where you need it and move to where you don't want it, especially when the gun heats up. You end up with a slide that gets dry while other areas get covered in oil and pickup residue much faster. Although I could understand if it is a new custom 1911 that is still very tight, then a light oil might be necessary. I believe the gun community is slightly off base about the type of lube they use, a mechanism with an exposed action requires something closer to grease, while light oil is used in closed mechanisms. This all translates to knives since the pivots tend to be pretty exposed and should in theory require a thicker lube.

 

[WhitleyStu]

Why would you want oil to migrate in your 1911? The purpose of lubricant in a firearm is to reduce friction so that less wear occurs and that the action cycles reliably every time. When you you use an oil that is too light it tends to not stay where you need it and move to where you don't want it, especially when the gun heats up. You end up with a slide that gets dry while other areas get covered in oil and pickup residue much faster. Although I could understand if it is a new custom 1911 that is still very tight, then a light oil might be necessary. I believe the gun community is slightly off base about the type of lube they use, a mechanism with an exposed action requires something closer to grease, while light oil is used in closed mechanisms. This all translates to knives since the pivots tend to be pretty exposed and should in theory require a thicker lube.

I should have never used the gun analogy as you have taken it out of contexts. When lubrication migrates it does not all move to another area, but leaves a film over a larger area than where initially applied. As to your comment that "the gun community is slightly off base about the type of lube they use..." I use Kellube in some areas which was developed by Neil Keller. In 2003, Neil was awarded Pistolsmith of the Year. In other ares I use Slide-Glide developed by Brian Enos (three time silver medal winner). I think they knows firearms lubrication better than most.
BTW, welcome to BladeForum. I see you have been a member six days...

 

[drail]

On 1911 slide rails you WANT the oil to flow and migrate because it will carry the fouling solids away. They are abrasive. Just keep replacing the oil with fresh oil. If you put grease on, say, a crankshaft bearing instead of oil it won't last long. The oil carries the grit away and off the bearing surface where it can be trapped by a filter. Yes, I know the oil is also carrying away heat but that is a different discussion and doesn't apply to 1911 rails because they never make that much heat. They do however produce a lot of grit from the burned and unburned powder The powder fouling makes a fine abrasive and you want to get that off the bearing surfaces. I have for many years always lubed my 1911 match guns with Mil spec CLP with a very light coating applied with a brush or a Q tip and I have run them numerous times over a thousand rounds in one day with no reapplication of lube and when torn down at the end there is still CLP on the rails and barrel bushing. Oil does not "attract" dirt. The dirt is going to be there whether you use oil or grease or nothing at all. I always have to laugh when people say "I use grease because oil attracts dirt." Grease does not repel dirt - it just holds it in one place. The best lube I have found for knife mechanisms is air tool oil or Dexron. But I will flush them with very hot water and blow the water out with high pressure compressed air and then re lube them. They always snap open like they were new.