Best lubes/oils for pivot?

Has anyone used milli-tech? I got some hand have been slowly working into using it on all my knives. Its supposed to be activated with heat? So I put some in a bag, put all my knife parts in the bag, and then put the bag in the sun (air temp was 112 degrees) for a few hours. This was on my spyderco delica that I had just acid etched and stone washed.

I honestly havent noticed a huge difference, but I have yet to try it on a knife I am very familiar with. I typically just use REM oil and I have been pleased, but maybe I just havent been enlightened yet :) Ill tear my BM mini barrage down and report back onces its been lubricated.

I will say that I have been using the milli-tech on my glock..... it really is impressive how easy it is to clean now, I could literally get it clean without having to use any solvent.... i was pretty surprised...
 
Bill DeShivs said:
White Lightning is a liquid wax product that does not attract debris. I believe it is made for bicycle chains.
As far as lubrication, you can use any lubricant.
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MTHall720 said:
I just read customer reviews on what Bill recommended and it sounds great.
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At one time (maybe back in the '90s), White Lightning was packaged and marketed to knife users. Buck Knives had some packaged with their logo (see below). I bought a couple bottles of it. It may or may not've been good/better/best for clean lubrication of knives. The main gripe I had with it was that it didn't sit/store well, on the shelf, for very long. The suspension for the wax was apparently alcohol-based, and tended to evaporate away over time. Left a congealed and unusable gob of wax at the bottom of the bottle (I have a portion of one bottle and an unopened 2nd bottle, which are both useless now). Don't know if more recent versions of the product have been re-formulated to minimize that. If used in sufficient quantity (such as for a bicycle chain), it may not be an issue. But if only used occasionally, a drop or two at a time, it may not be the best.

David
 
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I have found what works best for me is taking the knife apart and thoroughly cleaning the pivot and washers, then applying a light coat of mineral oil. You just really want a film over the washers. Anything more is too much. If the knife needs more oil later on loosen the pivot and add one drop to each side and work it in. Note that one drop is usually too much, so if you can get a precision applicator you can do a more controlled oiling.
 
M-pro 7 has been working wonderfully for me. One of my PM2s had some blade play that would not go away unless I tightened the pivot to the point where the blade was stuck in whatever position it was when I tightened it. However now with the lube I can tighten it more than I ever could before and the blade swings freely. The blade play is so minor now. It's good stuff.
 
Kroil I love the stuff. Creeps into all the little nooks and crannies.

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Militec-1 has chlorine in it.... yeah, I know they claim they don't. However the fact that it contains chlorine is the reason that the USMC rejected it as an engine oil additive years ago.
It's an ok lube, about the same as any other synthetic, but the chlorine content can cause rust.
 
At the moment my 3 fav lube and rust inhibiters are m pro 7 it's a little bit thicker but boy does it give a glass feeling when opening the blade down side though it attracts a lot more pocket lint, 2nd is zoom spout its a paraffin base like benchmades blue lube non toxic too downside though it seems not to last as long as the m pro. And last but not least Finish line wax dry lube with krytech similar to white lightning but in my experience a little better krytech is the liquid form of flourinated grease which chris reeve grease is made out of downside of this is since it's a dry lube it does not give you that super glass feeling on the upside though no dirt or pocket lint.
 
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