Best mill with DRO for knifemaking if you don't have space for a Bridgeport?

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guy-montag

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Jun 30, 2011
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I have a 5' x 8' space in my garage that I could use for a mill. I'd like a Bridgeport, but there's no way I'd have enough space to use it sadly.

Failing that, what's the next best mill with digital read outs (DRO) that I could get new for around $4,000 or so?
 
i know you said you dont have space but if you tuck a bridgeport in a corner its much better use of space. barring that something like this (boy i wish it was a dovetail head not round ram) would cover most any knife maker needs. things to look for aslo are spindle speeds cause most likely you will moltly be using cutters under 3/8 inch and speedsd and feeds.... and if you wanted to run any carbid at all many of the otherr mills top speed of 1600rpm will not work out right. cant believe how i lucked out and got a 32 inch table bridgeport with the high speed head (top speed of about 5400rpm makes running smaller or carbide cutters nice. i will have to see how much room mine takes up (BTW i only gave 1600$ for the mill dropped off on my shop floor )
 
Gotcha, yeah, I have no idea what to look for. Being unable to run carbide cutters sounds like a problem. In the past, I've used a Bridgeport and a 90's HAAS at the local makerspace, but never had to spec out anything myself, all the setup and such was already taken care of.

I could fit a bridgeport in the garage if I could go without a vehicle, but living in Texas, not having a garage or covered parking in hail season is a disaster.
 
totaly understand the space restriction. thats why i bring up putting it in th corner really less youn go with a mini mill or othr table top mill(even the mid sized one ) if you have worked on full sized tooling you mighyt be let down by any of the hobby grade mills. i know even my clapped out BP is miles ahead of my mini mill
 
I have been looking at smaller mills and the PM-30MV would definitely be one of my top choices. Though I wouldn't say my opinion is worth a whole lot as I am far below a novice when it comes to machining.

Blessings,
Joshua
 
Anyone heard of the Bolton ZX45 before? For $3,000 or so, it comes with 3 axis DRO and power feed:

http://boltontool.com/Lathes/milling-machine/milling-machine-ZX45PD

Specs:
Max. drilling capacity(steel): 1-1/5"
Max. drilling capacity(lron): 1-4/5"
Max. end milling capacity: 1-1/5"
Max. face milling capacity: 3-1/5"
Drawbar Thread: 7/16"-20
Drill Chuck Arbor: R8/JT33 Included
Swivel angle of head-stock at level direction 360°
Cross travel: 7 7/8"
Longitudinal travel: 19 7/10"
Max distance spindle to column: 10 1/4"
Head stroke: 12"
Spindle Taper: R8
Spindle stroke: 5"
Max. distance spindle to table: 20"
Spindle speeds : 6.
Range of spindle speeds: 60Hz, 95,175,310,450,850,1500RPM.
Head rotation: 90 degree.
Horsepower: 2hp.
Motor Type: A/C.
Single Phase
3-AXIS DRO
Power Feeder must be Installed
Voltage: 110 or 220 Volts. Standard 110 volts
Draw Bar thread 7/16"-20
Shipping Weight: 839 lbs.
Crate Dimensions: 35" x 31"x 48"
 
There are several companies that sell different versions of the same mill. Bolton is a different take on the same line of mills Precision Matthews makes.
 
5x8 sounds like plenty of space for a bridgeport to me, as long as you don't get one with the longer table. My experience with most of these medium sized "on-stand" mills, is that they don't really save a lot of floor space.
 
HSC /// said:
Burke Millrite MVN
Click to expand...

Ditto.
Before I moved up to a Bridgeport, the best mill I could get imo was the Millrite. Its like a teenager Bridgeport. If you can’t find one that already has a dro installed, its no big deal to install one yourself. Keep in mind that like Bridgeports there are different table sizes and configurations for the Millrite as well.
 
javand said:
5x8 sounds like plenty of space for a bridgeport to me, as long as you don't get one with the longer table. My experience with most of these medium sized "on-stand" mills, is that they don't really save a lot of floor space.
Click to expand...

If I can shoehorn a bridgeport in there, are there any basic checks I can do on one before buying it? My only concern is that as old as most bridgeports are, I have no idea how well maintained they were and how accurate they are now, nor what things to look out for.
 
guy-montag said:
If I can shoehorn a bridgeport in there, are there any basic checks I can do on one before buying it? My only concern is that as old as most bridgeports are, I have no idea how well maintained they were and how accurate they are now, nor what things to look out for.
Click to expand...
That’s exactly why I’m buying one of these. I know where to get good used Bridgeport’s. But even a well maintained unit may have backlash and other things to compensate for. These units are tight and ready to go without a bunch of time to set up.
 
jsut to show size here is my BP in the corner of the shop the front crank is 6 feet from the wall corner and with the power feed the table is 4 feet wide (if i coudl fine a crank and mounting plate i woudl remove the old school powerr feed) while yes its a big tool but some of those smaller mills come close in overr all footprint
27540816_10210630081458852_3393065556796186727_n.jpg
 
I think there might be a little bit of a misconception about how much space you're actually saving with a bench/table top mill vs. a bridgeport. Yes, they're certainly bigger, but it's not like you could fit 2 tabletop mills in the same floor space of a single full sized knee mill. The added rigidity/capacity/capability is worth any small sacrifice of space, however, IMO.

As for things like backlash and such, any mill is going to have backlash. Some worse than others, yes, but a DRO negates that problem. Bigger issues are things like runout, bearing wear, ways wear, and just general slop. A visual/audio inspection and a good dial indicator can rule out some things. How do cranks and levers feel? Is there excess vibration? Lots of noise when you crank or move something?

Personally, I'd take a slightly worn knee mill over a brand new table top any day of the week, and around here, $4k would get you a heck of a nice knee mill, with tooling and accessories to boot.
 
butcher_block said:
if i coudl fine a crank and mounting plate i woudl remove the old school powerr feed
Click to expand...

You're saying you don't find the power feed very useful? Perhaps I shouldn't waste my money looking at them. Comments from other folks please.... Ooops, just realized I'm hyjacking a thread - but perhaps this question is of interest to the OP also?
 
Ken H> said:
You're saying you don't find the power feed very useful? Perhaps I shouldn't waste my money looking at them. Comments from other folks please.... Ooops, just realized I'm hyjacking a thread - but perhaps this question is of interest to the OP also?
Click to expand...

Personally, I use my x-axis power feed constantly. I also machined a drill adapter for the knee crank, that I chuck into a battery powered drill. My mill also had a y-axis power feed, but I really don't find it necessary, and it actually looks like it was more/less shoehorned into the machine (for what purpose, I have NO idea). I'd have moved it to the knee, but I'd have to make some modifications to make it work.

Now, would I tell somebody a power feed is necessary? Not at all, but if you can find one already installed, it sure beats paying $500+ for a new one and having to put it on yourself.
 
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