Best mill with DRO for knifemaking if you don't have space for a Bridgeport?

I got the Precision Matthew's 727m and it's perfect for what I do imho. Top speeds are 3k rpm (which is fast for a bench top model) with steel hear heads. I have been running carbide in it no problem, even for hard milling (milling jimping in hardened steel with a 1/16 ball nose end mill for example). The 3 axis DRO is amazing and I wouldn't want to be without it. I haven't used the z axis portion yet, not sure the need for that. For me, 2 axis with a dro on the quill would be just fine.
 
i use the BP about once a month. i would use it more if i had a 2nd VFD so i coudl just plug and run it (right now i have to unplug my KMG and walk the vfd over to the mmill) my mini does most of my work cause i can not care about it being dirty the knife parts are really not that large. the folder i just made that included a milled from thick stock pocket clip i did all on my mini mill. as for power feeds and DRO i would trade my power feed (that i have never powered up so i dont know if it even works ) for a DRO as it would be way more useful in my eyes then the power ffeed in a knife makers shop
 
For me, 2 axis with a dro on the quill would be just fine.

That was my thinking also. The mill I have has the DRO built into the quill so didn't think I needed the Z axis DRO, and ordered only a 2 axis DRO for the mill. After using for a while I decided like a DRO so much I wanted one on the lathe also. This time I ordered a 3 axis DRO for the mill and moved the 2 axis to the lathe. While the quill dro is still useful for drilling holes, etc it's the Z axis DRO I use for Z adjustment all the time. Since using both, I like the 3 axis DRO for the mill vs the 2 axis DRO I used first.
 
I use an MVN also. Great machine. Bought this one:
and added DRO to table and head. Weight is about 1200 so I can move it easily and mill most anything. VFD is great too. Company is still around so you can get parts for it too. Old American iron. Good luck.
 
That was my thinking also. The mill I have has the DRO built into the quill so didn't think I needed the Z axis DRO, and ordered only a 2 axis DRO for the mill. After using for a while I decided like a DRO so much I wanted one on the lathe also. This time I ordered a 3 axis DRO for the mill and moved the 2 axis to the lathe. While the quill dro is still useful for drilling holes, etc it's the Z axis DRO I use for Z adjustment all the time. Since using both, I like the 3 axis DRO for the mill vs the 2 axis DRO I used first.

That's interesting Ken! What types of things do you use the Z axis adjustment for? My Z axis pretty much stays fixed (after I adjust the major travel) while the quill is what I lower to actually mill jimping, pockets, grooves, slots, etc. Such as these scales I milled out for weight reduction the other day - quill DRO was perfect for this

IMG_20180201_153117-X2.jpg
 
Sorry computer is down and I hate typing on the phone.

Most of the "DRO"s on the mini/bench Mills aren't real dros that I've seen. Usually it's just a linear scale on the quill, which is mostly useless for traditional milling.

Most knee Mills with DROs only have X and Y scales, as Z or quill especially, are highly limited, and typically very easy to indicate.

A power feed on a Bridgeport is much more limited than a true mechanical power feed that's on most larger knee Mills. I use the one on my BP only for light facing, occasionally, but mostly for the rapid traverse when setting up. On my K&T on the other hand, which has true mechanical power and rapid traverse on all axis, I use them constantly, it even has micrometer stop on the sliding head, which is a killer feature, I should utilize more often.

I wouldn't base a purchase on having a power f eed on a bp, just like I wouldn't base it on whether it's a variable or step pulley head. I'd just look for the nicest one I can find that the owner can show you how nice it is.

Listen to it run, watch him take some cuts, don't buy one that needs any repairs, don't confuse dirt for damage. Mostly you need to get a good feeling the owner is knowledgeable, cares about the machine, and is honest about what is good and bad. $5k should brrimg a very nice one if you're patient.

Keep your eyes open for a Wells Index mill with r8 spindle also, they're basically Bridgeports but much nicer.

I'll say again, I'd take a clapped out bridepoet over one of the bench Mills myself, if it's the same money. Now, I understand the appeal of new, and you can do good work on bench mill, if you get a nice one, but if you out grow it, you're not going to be able to recoup your money, where as a bp will likely be more valuable if you maintain it.

This is just my abbreviated opinion, because I can't type more atm. A full size mill may still not be your best option, but it's a huge upgrade if you can swing it. That's suitable for more than just knife work.
 
one comment I would make with my career in manufacturing, you never regret overbuying in my experience, ever.
 
That's interesting Ken! What types of things do you use the Z axis adjustment for?

Josh, that's some good milling you did on those pockets for the folder. Good job.

At first I wasn't sure at all about using the Z axis for Z control - I'd been using the quill and felt that was all that's needed. I felt the Z axis would be awkward as well. Once I got the Z axis added to the DRO and started using the Z axis control rather than the quill, it seems to give me better control...... Well, at least the read out is right there with the X and Y axis and maybe that's it? Anyway - I've found I like it better than the quill. Do I do any better at depth control? Hmmm - doubt it, but like the 3 axis DRO anyway.

Ken H>
 
Josh, that's some good milling you did on those pockets for the folder. Good job.

At first I wasn't sure at all about using the Z axis for Z control - I'd been using the quill and felt that was all that's needed. I felt the Z axis would be awkward as well. Once I got the Z axis added to the DRO and started using the Z axis control rather than the quill, it seems to give me better control...... Well, at least the read out is right there with the X and Y axis and maybe that's it? Anyway - I've found I like it better than the quill. Do I do any better at depth control? Hmmm - doubt it, but like the 3 axis DRO anyway.

Ken H>
Thanks man! So I understand correctly, you don't use the quill DRO at all but leave that all the way up and only drop down the z axis for milling? That makes sense and would probably offer the most rigidity...!
 
That millrite looks pretty interesting. I have the HF minimill and love/hate it. It's far better than a drill press with no bigger footprint.
The head drop makes me hate it.
It would be really interesting to see a list of uses in the knife shop (directly knife making related).

I get it if you want to make tooling or other larger work. But how many things can you use a big mill for actually in the making of knife?
What justifies the space over a minimill?
I use mine for:
  • Drilling needs
  • Milling tang slots
  • Milling handle stock square
What else? Folders?
 
Josh, that's some good milling you did on those pockets for the folder. Good job.

At first I wasn't sure at all about using the Z axis for Z control - I'd been using the quill and felt that was all that's needed. I felt the Z axis would be awkward as well. Once I got the Z axis added to the DRO and started using the Z axis control rather than the quill, it seems to give me better control...... Well, at least the read out is right there with the X and Y axis and maybe that's it? Anyway - I've found I like it better than the quill. Do I do any better at depth control? Hmmm - doubt it, but like the 3 axis DRO anyway.

Ken H>
If I'm milling a pocket, or trying to maintain the best tolerances on a piece I'm milling or facing down, I always use the Z crank with my DRO as well. I do have a cheaper quill DRO that is plenty accurate enough, but cranking the z-axis is much more controllable IMO, than trying to control the quill movement to within a couple of thousandths or better.
I pretty much only use the quill DRO for depthing holes.
 
That millrite looks pretty interesting. I have the HF minimill and love/hate it. It's far better than a drill press with no bigger footprint.
The head drop makes me hate it.
It would be really interesting to see a list of uses in the knife shop (directly knife making related).

I get it if you want to make tooling or other larger work. But how many things can you use a big mill for actually in the making of knife?
What justifies the space over a minimill?
I use mine for:
  • Drilling needs
  • Milling tang slots
  • Milling handle stock square
What else? Folders?
You can always use a larger machine for small work, but there's a much lower limit for large work on a small machine. The extra mass and rigidity (which translates into tighter tolerances, heavier DOC, larger tooling) should not be overlooked either. Also, I can fit at LEAST 2, if not 3 or even 4 vises for different operations on one full sized table, vs just one or two smaller vises on smaller machine. Heck, even just having the ability to hold a larger vise or have a larger traverse comes in handy more than you might think. All that said, once you have a large knee mill, you start finding more jobs you can do with it, knife related, tool making related, or otherwise.
You also start to appreciate how much more of the smaller jobs you can do faster with a much heavier (and more powerful) machine.
 
Thanks man! So I understand correctly, you don't use the quill DRO at all but leave that all the way up and only drop down the z axis for milling? That makes sense and would probably offer the most rigidity...!

About the only thing I used the quill DRO for is when drilling blind holes, etc. I do want the free movement of the quill when doing things like that. When machining I lock the quill in place - sometimes all the way up, other times perhaps down some, then locked into place. If I'm taking a heavy cut, the quill is always all the way up and locked for best rigidity as you mentioned.

Ken H>
 
You can always use a larger machine for small work, but there's a much lower limit for large work on a small machine. The extra mass and rigidity (which translates into tighter tolerances, heavier DOC, larger tooling) should not be overlooked either. Also, I can fit at LEAST 2, if not 3 or even 4 vises for different operations on one full sized table, vs just one or two smaller vises on smaller machine. Heck, even just having the ability to hold a larger vise or have a larger traverse comes in handy more than you might think. All that said, once you have a large knee mill, you start finding more jobs you can do with it, knife related, tool making related, or otherwise.
You also start to appreciate how much more of the smaller jobs you can do faster with a much heavier (and more powerful) machine.

Multiple vises! That is a very good point.
 
for a while i had a tilting table and 6 inch vice on my small 32 (maybe 36 inch ) BP best knife making thing i ahve found on the bridgeport is milling out integrals and also milling fullers. can they be dont on the mini mill yess but the BP makes it so much easier
 
I thought I had my tooling about done....
This seems a bit pricey. ?

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/6492035356.html
yes pricey, I'd be looking to spend half that amount for that type of setup.
also depends on what kind of vise it is,
maybe the whole setup is in superb condition...

the other thing that justifies a larger mill is that you can use it to build or fabricate your own knife making fixtures and tooling more efficiently.
 
i think as nice as those milrite option are they fall into the your going to pay more jsut cause ther are not quite as big as reall tools but far far better then HF hobby gear. 9 inch SB lathes can pull ok $ the heavy 10 on a short bed abot the same but step to a 13 and even on a 3 foot bed they end up beeing much cheaper then a 10 cause of 220v and less handy in a small shop. as is always location location loacation BPs are for sale all over the place in my neck of the woods
 
I thought I had my tooling about done....
This seems a bit pricey. ?

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/6492035356.html

That kind of price around here would probably get you AT LEAST a DRO and some powerfeeds, and probably a bit more tooling as well. That said, it does look pretty clean, though the pics are pretty poor. Not sure what machines normally go for in that area, but I doubt I'd offer full asking price. Depends on what kind of vise and collets he's got on it too. Having a 1.5hp single phase motor might be a selling point for some too...
 
Wishing I had a power feed on my X today. But I'll probably buy a DRO first. Saved myself a lot of time at the grinder.

sHSIMLT.jpg
 
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