Best no fuss drill bits for making easy holes for 1/4 and 3/16th rod stock?

J

JZknives

Joined
Feb 7, 2013
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It seems that no matter what I do I encounter massive problems at the drill press. It either involves a massive amount of time with cylinder files or lots of time reparing cracked handles.

Is there a stupid easy drill bit setup that will get me in and out of this problem?
 
What type of wood?
What type of drill bits?
What angle on the tip?
How many holes have been drilled with these bits?
What speed are you drilling at?
How hard are you feeding?

One option is to go to your local woodworking supply shop, like a Rockler or Woodcraft, and show them the wood and your problem. They would likely get you all squared away?
 
PT Doc said:
What type of wood?
What type of drill bits?
What angle on the tip?
How many holes have been drilled with these bits?
What speed are you drilling at?
How hard are you feeding?

One option is to go to your local woodworking supply shop, like a Rockler or Woodcraft, and show them the wood and your problem. They would likely get you all squared away?
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its usually stablized wood that cracks

It seems the rod stock is always too big for the holes I drill
 
The obvious suggestion I'd to go up in size in the drill bit?

Have you taken a micrometer to the rod stock that you are using? I would guess its a few thou oversized.
Have you taken the same micrometer to you drill bit? I would guess its a few thou under if they are import branded.
That could be you problem right there-trying to pass something too big in too small a hole?
Check the dimensions and I think you will see where the problem is.
 
PT Doc said:
The obvious suggestion I'd to go up in size in the drill bit?

Have you taken a micrometer to the rod stock that you are using? I would guess its a few thou oversized.
Have you taken the same micrometer to you drill bit? I would guess its a few thou under if they are import branded.
That could be you problem right there-trying to pass something too big in too small a hole?
Check the dimensions and I think you will see where the problem is.
Click to expand...
I think i was told on this forum that using standard size drill bits (imperial) is wrong and there is a different scale you should use
 
I use number/letter gauge bits to drill pilot holes, selecting one that's fractionally bigger than the pin. F gauge drills, for example, are 0.2570", and work fine for .250" pins.
 
Clyde Ulmer said:
I use number/letter gauge bits to drill pilot holes, selecting one that's fractionally bigger than the pin. F gauge drills, for example, are 0.2570", and work fine for .250" pins.
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yes this is what i remember , is there a set you could reccomend?

I just need the bits for the common rod stock sizes everyone uses
 
Why buy a full set (I admit that I did myself) when you need, like, 3 or 4 specific sizes that you'll use frequently? Save some $$$ and buy those sizes (maybe a few of each to be safe). You will also have some $$$ left over that you could spent on GOOD reamers.

FWIW you might go with Viking or Norseman drills instead of imports.

Syn
 
synthesist said:
Why buy a full set (I admit that I did myself) when you need, like, 3 or 4 specific sizes that you'll use frequently? Save some $$$ and buy those sizes (maybe a few of each to be safe). You will also have some $$$ left over that you could spent on GOOD reamers.

FWIW you might go with Viking or Norseman drills instead of imports.

Syn
Click to expand...
I guess what i meant was what type of drill bits should i buy? colbalt or....
 
I would second just buying the ones you need. I buy F bits for 1/4" and #30s for 1/8". I use hss bits and use them on steel to wood, stag, bone everything.
 
If you blowing out the holes on your stabilized wood ... When you drill in to it make sure it is on top of another piece of wood..I use Micarta that should take care of that. But you should drill slow , Don't try and blow through it. Like Syn said get your self at the very least a multi use reamer. It doesn't have to be an expensive one for this just make sure you get a tapered one.Then just ream the holes out to what you need. If your bits are not lasting you are drilling to fast. I used to burn up all my bits and I used to crack and blow out wood all the time. I just slowed everything down
 
It is hard to drill too slow but easy to drill too fast, you may be plugging your hole with melted resin. Try a really slow speed and just let the bit cut.
 
JZknives said:
yes this is what i remember , is there a set you could reccomend?

I just need the bits for the common rod stock sizes everyone uses
Click to expand...


So far we have per Horsewright "I buy F bits for 1/4" and #30s for 1/8". I use hss bits and use them on steel to wood, stag, bone everything."

He would then need bits for 1/16 and then he is likely set? What about common thong tube sizes? That's one I would like to know as well.
 
I use 1/4 thong tubing, so use the F for that too. 1/4" pins don't go into 1/4" holes very well, that might be why the cracks in the handle material.
 
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use #40 for 3/32
when you get ready to drill, you can also put a couple of strips of masking tape in the area of the exit hole. This will help as well as using a solid backing to exit into.
 
i have been doing it wrong for years i use 1/8 for 1/8 and 3/16 for 3/6 only now and then do i get a hole to tight. i peck my holes out on a mini mill with cobalt bits. 9 out of 10 times in stablized wood (now if i was peening pins in 1/8 inch thick wood that might be a problem)
 
F for 1/4" is perfect in my, admittedly limited, experience. I have a big Craftsman index of hss drills that my pop left me. Not sure if the quality is the same, but feed+speed and I'm good with wood, micarta and steel.
 
My two cents: I recently used a letter F drill to drill 1/4" holes for scales and the pins were too loose. I could have peened the pins in after shaping the scales and finishing to a 400 grit but I realized that it would look good but not hold well. I checked all my pin stock for diameter with digital calipers until I found some rod stock that was large enough for a snug fit. I now keep a dozen Norseman black and gold drills in both 1/4" and letter F and I measure every time I need to drill holes in scales. I drill first with a 1/4 inch and try the pin fit since I can always open the hole with a letter F if need be. I also discovered that my tubing stock in both brass and nickel silver for lanyard holes is not a real tight fit with 1/4' drills so I never use a letter F for that job. I don't think we can trust the size of drills or stock without checking with our calipers. Just my opinion. Larry
 
LARRYZ10 said:
My two cents: I recently used a letter F drill to drill 1/4" holes for scales and the pins were too loose. I could have peened the pins in after shaping the scales and finishing to a 400 grit but I realized that it would look good but not hold well. I checked all my pin stock for diameter with digital calipers until I found some rod stock that was large enough for a snug fit. I now keep a dozen Norseman black and gold drills in both 1/4" and letter F and I measure every time I need to drill holes in scales. I drill first with a 1/4 inch and try the pin fit since I can always open the hole with a letter F if need be. I also discovered that my tubing stock in both brass and nickel silver for lanyard holes is not a real tight fit with 1/4' drills so I never use a letter F for that job. I don't think we can trust the size of drills or stock without checking with our calipers. Just my opinion. Larry
Click to expand...

I agree with checking everything that needs to fit with a tight tolerance with micrometer.
 
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